Hello, all. I have an '82 240 sedan with a bad limited slip differential (LSD), the result of the previous owner running different sized tires on the rear for who knows how many thousands of miles. The differential is completely shot as a result and the car can barely make it around corners, let alone be considered safe to drive.

I want to replace the bad LSD with a conventional differential. Sourcing a replacement is not a problem for me, but I'm not sure what would be the best way to proceed from there. It seems I have but two options:

1) Replace the _entire_ rear end with an intact unit from another car.

2) Attempt to replace just the differential, keeping the existing rear end intact.

Option 1 would not be easy. It means removing coil springs, disassembling the multi-link rear suspension, dealing with old bushings and bolt removal, supporting the vehicle's weight, etc. A nightmare job given that I don't have a lift in my garage!

Option 2 sounds like a lot less work, but I have no experience dealing with installing a differential. What does it take? I know that bearing pre-load, gear alignment and such is critical... is this something that I can do with hand tools with the carrier (rear end) still in the car, or would I be opening up a can of worms?

Any advice appreciated.

tx

StV
Portland, OR

Thanks for the responses!

Eric: I hadn't considered repairing the LSD, so that sounds like option 3. Are any specialized tools required to do the job? Is it as simple as replacing parts and reassembling, or do I need to get into bearing pre-load adjustments and such? Lastly, can you give me a ballpark estimate on what a clutch kit would cost?

T-bone: I do have the Bentley manual, unfortunately, the info there on the rear end is pretty sparse and doesn't really cover the innards of the Dana very well. But, nice to know someone else has done the job I described; it sounds like it is manageable if it comes to that.

Again, thanks for the advice, I appreciate it!

StV
Portland, OR

Hello,

Basic hand tools can be used and you will not need to mess with the pinion pinion pre-load as long as you are not changing the pinion bearings or the pinion seal.

Contrary to the manual(one of the only times you will get that phrase out of me), you do not need a spreader to get a type 30 carrier housing out of the differential housing.

All I do use a pair of the old tire irons that came in the earlier Volvo tool kits to pry the unit out and a hard plastic mallet to knock it back in, being very careful not to mash the ring gear into the pinion gear on installation.

It is a good idea to have a helper to catch the carrier or have something soft enough for the carrier to fall onto like a thick stack of cardboard.

I do not own a Bently manual, but I do have a Haynes manual for 240 Volvos and it does have a repair section that covers the overhaul of your LSD including the fact that bolts that hold it together are LEFT HAND THREAD and the correct way to stack the clutch discs.

Just make sure to make some marks to make sure you put the 2 halves back together exactly as it came apart.

I read though the text and I found that they advise the removal of the carrier bearings, which I know is not necessary to replace the LSD clutches.

The replacement clutch pack is around $50.00, but does not include new cross shafts or gears.

The gear and clutch kit is around $300.00.

Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90501

Hello,

The easiest and cheapest thing to do is to rebuild the LSD.

New clutch kits are easily available.

I even keep them in stock!!

Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90501

StV,

I've replaced several Dana 240 rear ends over the years. The last was in Oct. I just get the rear end up high enough to easily work on it, set it on some good solid jack stands and get at it. I make sure I have a long breaker bar and BP B'laster to deal with the corroded bolts, brake couplings and fasteners. It's not really a bad job to swap out the entire piece. Good time to replace the T rod, trailings, track rod bushings. I replace the inner axle seals,brake pads, rotors (if needed) and brake hardware as well. A Bentley 240 manual is a very good thing to have on hand for this and zillion other repairs. It's can be a bit of a PITA at times, I struggle with things like the parking brake cable connections, but over all not a bad job. Stuff like the coil springs are easier to deal with than you might expect. Removing the axle exhaust pipe provides a lot more clearance when moving the old rear end out and the new it. I took the evertyhing from the cat back off in the last job as I had new exhaust components to install. You'll want to get the proper gear ratio for your tranny (Auto or manual). An assistant is helful when actually removing or putting the rather heavy piece in place. Do get a Bentley manual if you plan on doing any amount of repair work yourself. An invalauble tool.