Hello everyone,

Well I'm in the process of building a b230ft and thought about swapping it into my 90' 245, but with emissions in California that would just be too much of a hassle when smog time comes around. Me and my dad have been pondering purchasing an older Volvo. The ones that have caught our eyes are the PV's. They're fairly cheap, and paint condition really isn't going to be a big deal. We've thought about giving it an old school rat rod look to it. Flat black with red wheels and gutting it for weight reasons. Has anyone swapped a b230ft into one of these? I've tried searching but didn't have much information about what needs to be done to swap.

Thanks,
-Mike

I've seen more than a handful of OHC motors sitting in PV engine bays. Upright mounted. Although they look bigger, I don't think the OHC motors are really any taller or longer than the B20's are. And if you pick the right B230FT, it is probably a far cheaper path to 200 - 250 hp than is the B20. Because it can be done on a largely stock shortblock. By the time a B20 is making that sort of HP you are into serious money with modified heads, superchargers, etc. But getting a B230FT to there costs only hundreds, and the parts can come from junkyards (truck intercoolers, later model Volvo turbos).

I'd imagine you main problems will be:
1) Exhaust side: the PV has a rather narrow engine bay down low. those big frame spars rise up near the back end and fit somewhat snugly alongside the engine. Might need to have some carefully crafted downpipe, possibly even a custom built exhaust manifold to position the turbo where it isn't hitting anything.
2) Intake side: The intake manifold will probably want to occupy the space where the heater currently is. You could remove it, and use a more compact hot rod under-dash heater system and open up all that space under the hood.
3) Ignition (also a problem on 240/B230FT swaps) - later model 700/900 series turbo motors have crab distributors on the back of the head, you'd probably need to swap that for a block mounted style.
4) FI/ignition control: Just megasquirt it. Frees you up of all the constraints of a black box OEM injection system. And you are then free to make modifications to the motor as you see fit without Bosch disapproving of them.
5) Trans: As an initial step, you can just use the PV's trans if you want. Once stood up (use a B20 oil pan and pump, I think) a B18 bellhousing will bolt to the OHC motors in a normal fashion. If later on you blow up the trans (which will, IMO, be more an effect of the tires you use than the HP rating of the motor) then you can think about getting something stronger on it, with (probably) custom driveshafts. In a PV, nothing but a plain long shifter-ed M40 will fit without chopping out the tunnel to make more room. M41's require surgery, as would M45/46/47 (for the shifter position as much as anything else on the M45/47). If you are making epic amounts of HP and running sticky tires and munching M40's, you should probably go to a Mustang T5 swap anyhow, and swap the rear end while you are at it.

My PV has something like 170 - 175 HP, which is pretty fun for a 2200 lb car. That's with a lot of mods on the motor (actually, very little totally stock and unmodified components are on the motor). But with my 245 and it's cheaply modified B230FT, I've seen the dark side, and I like it. The wagon is probably closing in on 250 WHP, and that's with a totally stock late model B230FT motor (It's a '93 940T motor), with around $1500 in supporting mods (3" exhaust DP to TP, 16T turbo, ported turbine housing and exhaust mani, IPD turbo cam, MSnS, Isuzu NPR intercooler, Ford browntop injectors). Even though the wagon weighs in at 800 lbs more than the PV, I think it's quicker already. And quiet and civilized at the same time.
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic 245 + turbo

If you go the B230FT route, the resulting car will be seriously fast, especially if the motor is tweaked. A Lotus Elise has 190 HP and weighs around 2200 lbs. The PV weighs about the same, and 190 HP can be obtained without too much difficulty from the B230FT. Such a vehicle would be truly dangerous with the stock drum brakes. Fortunately, it is not too difficult to upgrade to 1800E/ES front and rear suspension, which will give you four disc brakes, with four piston calipers at the front, and the possibility of taller gearing (automatic 1800 ES was 3.90:1) than the stock 4.10 (B18) or 4.56 (B16) of the PV. It is also a much more straightforward front end to work on, with ball joints as opposed to king pins. IPD sways, Koni shocks.

After doing all this, it would seem a shame to me to finish off the resulting Porsche-eater as a rat rod. I picture it in either olive green metallic (Dodge/Jeep color) or dark blue metallic, with simplified bumpers (no pipe work) and most of the chrome shaved. The interior would be thoroughly revised, with a roll bar, a pair of Recaros or similar, no back seat, just a carpeted storage/speaker area, and a dash full of gauges. Simple, functional and attractive. Like Porsches used to be before they became yuppie status symbols.

If I were doing a rat rod on a budget, I would stay with the B20, which can easily make 125-130 HP, a considerable improvement over the 85-115 of the various stock PV engines. Front discs from a 122 are a much simpler swap than the 1800ES conversion, though if you are going to be drag racing, or pretending to, the 1800ES rear is a lot sturdier than the original one. The weak point of the stock axle is not the gears, it is where the tapered axle shaft, weakened by a keyway, fits into the brake drum. It can shear off here, (I've heard of such incidents, one during a sports car race) at which point, the drum, with wheel firmly attached, parts company with the car. (where did that wheel come from, and why is it passing me.....for some reason, it looks awfully familiar...) Oh, and if you didn't upgrade to a dual circuit master cylinder, you also have no brakes whatsoever. (even the hand brake becomes ineffective when a drum is missing) The 1800E/ES axle has flanged axle shafts (like a 140-240-740) and this is no longer a danger. Another potential weak point is the overdrive transmission. The extended output shaft of the main gearbox, that couples with the overdrive unit, will wring off after repeated full throttle clutch drops, especially with a strong Turbo engine. The plain 4 speed M40 or M45 is a better choice, and don't go too sticky with the tires, you want them to break loose and spin. If you are going to be driving more sanely, just cruising around, the overdrive transmissions are plenty strong, as is the old type rear, though it is a good idea to have the axle shafts magnafluxed, to spot any incipient cracks.

I didn't write that reply....but I believe it. My car has all the mentioned improvements from front axle (140 is better than 1800es...I've done both)to a better B20 and T5 plus a 1800es rear axle. Even the removed rear seat and cargo area. Not so much on the gauges but pretty much a straight forward car that looks like a PV. All possible and reliable. Last week I drove the PV from Buffalo to Philadelphia on to Washington and back home... 1000 miles and it was great . I have examined the B23FT and as long as you go there...how about a B234FT or become more contemporary with a 20 valve 5 cylinder? A friend is doing the 5 banger into a 140 right now and has flipped it to the north and south configuration with a T5 and a huge turbo. For my car I have chosen to stay with the easier (to me) B20 and Weber DCOE's. I am hoping for around 150hp at the engine with the port work and cam plus higher compression and Webers. Easier includes carburation because I understand it and enjoy it and can fiddle with it but not fuel injection because even though I also understand it don't enjoy it. Rat rods and old scool get carbs. Disc brakes are fine and I have tilton master cylinders (3) to make sure I stop with traffic with 2 circuits. The biggest problem with driving these as daily drivers is the stopping. Cars of today can stop way better that a PV can even with improvements. It is a problem when in an emergency stop of any new car can be done in much less distance than we can in our old cars. The difference can be called a "crash". Putting more power under the hood only makes you have a sense of confidence that you can be on the roads with newer vehicles... but if they stop in 100 feet for a dog and you stop in 120 feet behind them.... you better hope you had those 20 feet of room. Picture is my PV with a 140 front axle.

My PV has a few mods. Perhaps "rat rod". Flat Black fenders but shiny red otherwise. B20's can be modified...

try http://www.georger.com/virgil_2_0.htm

Add fiberglass


Rat ROD!

Mike,
This comes under the rubric of Anything is possible if you are determined or nuts enough to try. If you get a kick out of doing that sort of thing, by all means, have at it. When you are done, we'll all be amazed at the accomplishment and give you a well-earned round of applause, but if you want a hot PV, either ratty or original looking, put in a B20 modified with all the John Parker goodies. For another approach, go to vclassics.com and read what Phil Singher did with his 122.
Bob S.

Hmm...so I'm going to assume I'm going to need some custom mounts. I was hoping the mounts were similar. How is engine bay space when it comes to putting a b230 in a pv? What type of tranny did they run? Will it mount up to a redblock or am I better off swapping in an m46?

Mike,
I was curious about how people here in CA were getting away with their B230FTs in their 240s. Next stop: turbobricks! I just keep it all pre-smog.

Things you should expect to run in to:

Motor mounts, as you assessed.
B230 is longer than B20, I think. How much... I'd have to check.
Are you doing it Turbo?
Manifolds will have trouble clearing the hood on all sides.
Could lead to a custom front clip.
I've never seen an M47, M46 for sure you'll have to cut & widen the tunnel.
Read that M47s don't like being upright.
They came usually with M40s, sometimes M30s. Similar in size to M45.
Shortened driveshaft & different flange, bigger ujoints
I don't know if you want to stand the B230 upright... B21 & B23s I think people use the B20 oil pan & pump.
Custom exhaust
Disc Brake Swap
Electric fan
maybe aftermarket radiator

Only two things I can advise:
Learn Swedish or German, and peruse their boards for help & ideas. It's been done there without a doubt.

Rat Rods ethically should use the OEM stuff, period add-ons & your ingenuity to get the most out of it. & should start with a pretty tattered example of the car, so we folks don't cry.

I say get yourself a B16B M40 combo and make that work for power.
Or if it's late enough (post '61) a B18.

But I have a bent, so that's it neither here nor there. I'm making a period-style sleeper rally car out of my '70 142. Some guys I know make rat rods. My Citroen Wagon might be considered a Rat Rod if you want to get into the modifications it has. Mostly it just looks scary, and sits very low.

Just please don't chop it!

Don't forget the mexican blanket.

Have a blast,
-Sean
--
1966 122s, 1970 142s, 1974 142e... Blue is beautiful