I found some interference issues in the distributor cap that seemed to take care of a lot of the noise. There is still some metallic clicking at higher rpms but now I just don't know how sensitive I am being after hunting down noises for a while. The thing that threw me for the biggest loop was that my cast iron dist. made noise as well as the breakerless distributors. They use different caps so the cap interference couldn't explain the noise in both. It might be a case of my iron distributor weights failing at the same time as I was having cap issues with the other distributors. Coincidences can sure screw up problem solving.

thanks,

mario m.

Hello Mario,

Do you know what brand of camshaft was installed? The aftermarket cams are crap!! I have found "white box camshafts" with the lobes ground way of time.

As I stated in a recent post, the only truly good aftermarket camshafts were made by TRW, and Federal-Mogul bought that division and dispanded it as it already had a camshaft manufacturing division, Sealed Power, but they do not make camshafts for the B18 or B20 engines.

I use Iskendarian camshafts as Volvo now wants over $700.00 for a "D" camshaft, which I have had faithfully copied and if you want a "K", the Isky "VV71" is very close and is what I use for a Kjet equipped engine or for a mild performance carburated engine.

BTW, I believe that IPD PERFORMANCE camshafts are made by Iskendarian.

Was the thrust spacer ring installed on the camshaft? The ring is installed before the keyway is installed on the timing gear end as it has to slide over the cutout for the keyway that locates the timing gear.

If this spacer is left off, the camshaft can walk forwards and backwards, possibly causing your noise.


Did the rebuilder know how to set or did he check the distributor drive gear end play?

If the end play is excessive, the drive gear can jump up and down, possibly causing your noise.

Something that should have been done early on in the engine assembly, I know as I am building (2)B20 engines right now.

To do the job you need access to the crankcase (oil pan and oil pump off) and I have the luxury of having the camshaft out as well, but it can be done with the camshaft still installed.

You then install the distributor drive gear with a very clean shaft so that it slides easily into the bronze distributor drive bushing, then bolt down the aluminum distributor base housing WITH THE GASKET, DO NOT INSTALL THE DISTRIBUTOR.

Then reach into the crankcase and try to slide the distributor drive gear up and down.

If you have more than a very small amount of play, you need to push the bronze bushing up towards the distributor until the play is mostly removed.

You have to remove the drive gear to adjust the bushing

I never have found a specification for this end play, but I know it aint over .100" like the one I worked on today.

BTW, if the oil pump does not have an IPD re-enforcing ring, you should install one as it can save the pump if an ear tries to break off. And if you do install the ring, you might have to clearance the end of the distributor drive gear where it fits into the oil pump/re-enforcing ring and it is alot easier to check the fit when you have both the oil pump and drive gear in hand.

I would strongly suggest that you get rid of the aluminum timing gear in favor of a steel gear set, especially if you have dual valve springs!! I learned the lesson the hard way with a DNF (Did Not Finish)at Orange Show Raceway many blue moons ago in Hobby stock race.

Fortunately no damage to the engine, just to the pocket book and the good time we were having up till that point that day.

Eric
Hi Peformance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90501