Would you have any use for Volvo's Green Book for the B21FT Intercooler? (Downloads as a 5.8 Mb pdf-file.)

Erling.
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My 240 Page

Thanks to everyone for their insight. I am going to try the FCP early 740 turbo hoses when I do the swap.

recently had this exact same question over on turbobricks...

Your turbo is a Garrett T3 that is both oil-cooled and water cooled. Here is a diagram of one that is only oil cooled.





Notice there is a skinny oil feed line on top and a thick oil drain line on the bottom. These connections are required for a turbo to work, the oil cools and lubricates the bearing.

The two other connections on your turbo, marked with a green circle on the diagrams, are for water cooling. These connect to the radiator hoses. The one that is closer to the engine (marked with a green circle) connects to the ~1" thick hose that runs from the coolant reservoir to the radiator.

The one that is on the other side of the turbo (not shown in the diagrams) connects to the lower radiator hose.

To connect up the water cooling lines, you'll need to put metal "T" fittings in the middle of those two radiator hoses such that you can connect the turbo to them without restricting the flow of the radiator hoses.

From the factory all 240 Turbo's were only oil cooled, as well as 740 turbo's through 1986. 1987+ were both oil cooled and water cooled. The diagrams happen to be from a 1981 manual.

Make sure that the vacuum line marked "a" is in good condition and hooked up as shown. It operates the wastegate actuator. Without this line, your turbo will never open its wastegate and you will have infinite boost available. While this is fun, it also risks blowing up the engine. To adjust your boost, you can either buy a manual boost controller and fit it in-line in the line marked "a" or you can just adjust the wastegate actuator (circled in red).

Making the actuator arm shorter increases boost (by increasing the pressure that the wastegate will hold before it opens) and making the wastegate arm longer decreases boost.


For more information, please see the Turbo-compressor greenbook and the 1981 New Car Features greenbook at my website, www.k-jet.org
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http://www.k-jet.org

There are metal "T" inserts that get spliced into the existing hoses. Then it is a simple matter of connecting the water inlet and outlet on the turbo to those "T's". I don't know of a supplier of those inserts, perhaps someone else will be able to direct you to them.

Try to find a high quality hose to connect the turbo to those T's. They need to withstand a lot of heat due to their proximity to the turbo's high temperature.

Consider installing a low coolant sensor to warn of sudden loss of coolant to one of those hoses. My son's 82 GLT developed a rapid leak in one of those hoses but the low coolant warning light saved an overheating incident. It is a bummer to have to do a headgasket on any car due to avoidable overheating (with the added risk of a warped head) but a turbo car is even more difficult.

Randy

Lower rad hose is split for one side of turbo. Expansion hose is split for the other. Pretty simple.
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