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Well...after replacing my headgasket and practically overhauling the head plus some tricks on the ports, I am ready to start this sucker.
Now, should I prime the engine?, have fresh oil and used assembly lube on the camshaft and valve stems on assembly.
Do I need to prime the engine before starting? , how do I prime the engine?
Can I rotate the intermediate shaft to prime it?
Also, I torqued down the headbolts like the Bentley manual says, but dont know about the final step on 1/4 turn of so. How much torque is that?
I used assemly lube ont the bolts, so maybe my torque reading are off, What would happen if I over torque the bolts? (not crazy over torque, maybe a couple of ft/pounds more?)
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you are supposed to lube the head bolts when reinstalling. this will not mess up your torque specs. really you should use a torque-angle meter whenever you are using torque-to-yield bolts such as volvo headbolts....(i just torqued them to spec then turned them an additional 90degrees by eye. Remember that these head bolts are torque-to-yield that means that unless you bought all new bolts....you must...i repeat must measure them using very accurate calipers....aka have the machine shop that did the head measure them...any that are out of spec...aka have been stretched and not returned to their original length must be replaced. volvo originals are mega expensive...$10.50 each last I looked....but FCPGroton has generic that i used with great success.
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I reused them. After all, was just a head gasket replacement.
All bolts measured the same, well, with minimal differences. I measured them using my caliper (digital).
Weird thing is that usually bolts used on alum heads use washers to protect the surface.
After initial warmup and oil change...should I retorque them or leave as is.
Final torque was set at 75 ft/pounds.
Is there studs for these engines?
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"Remember that these head bolts are torque-to-yield that means that unless you bought all new bolts....you must...i repeat must measure them using very accurate calipers....aka have the machine shop that did the head measure them...any that are out of spec...aka have been stretched and not returned to their original length must be replaced."
Although the red-block engine (B230, B23, etc) Volvo head bolts look like TTY (torque-to-yeild) bolts due to the narrowed center section, they are in fact TAT (torque-angle-tighten) and can be re-used up to 5 times per Volvo specs in the Factory Green Manuals. There is also a length measurement to check them against in case someone did overtorque them and manage to get them to yeild/streach, but I've yet to see one that suffered this fate and I've done a fair share of head gaskets on these engines. The only engine that could be fitted in the Volvo 240/740 that uses TTY bolts is the VW Diesel, which has TTY bolts that must be replaced every time, and have a horrific 5-stage tighenting sequence which involves two sessions of running the engine (the second duration is for 500 miles before final tightening), -good grief. If anyone is looking for some good Volvo/VW Diesel advice, Brandon (Brickboard user ID: Badge988), on the 700 forum is the resident expert.
FYI, yes, the engine can be pre-lubricated by spinning the intermediate shaft which in turn drives the oil pump. Rather than turn it by hand, my good friends Makita and Milwaukee can do that job for me.
Lastly, when you're doing the final angle tightening 90 degree sweep on the head bolts, be sure to do the full 90 degrees in one sweep without stopping. Make sure that the tools you're using are rated for at least 250 ft-lbs of torque as the final torque at the end of your 90 degree arc will probably be in the neighborhood of 190 to 210 ft-lbs (for typical Elring head gasket material squished by a Volvo B230 head).
God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
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It took a 1/2" breaker bar plus 4 ft of pipe from Home Depot to move mine an additional 90 degrees.......you really need some leverage.
Dave
91 240
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By "priming the engine" I am assuming that you mean build oil pressure prior to starting the engine.
I would remove the coil wire from the distribultor and ground it. With the sparkplugs out simply crank the engine over until the oil pressure light goes out. Wait a short period and crank it again until the light goes out.
Install the plugs and reconnect the coil wire.
Working from memory I believe the head bolts are torqued to a certain value (measured in ft/lbs) and then the final torque is achieved by turning the bolts an additional X degrees. If the spec is 90 degrees then the bolts get an addtional 1/4 turn.
I normally just put a little engine oil on the headbolts and torque to the specs. I do not know how assembly grease might change those values.
Randy
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"...Can I rotate the intermediate shaft to prime it?..."
I would assume that you can do that, assuming of course you crank it in the correct direction.
It's a little late now, but it may have been a good idea to run the pump when the head bolts were out and the head off, to flush out the oil passage.
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"t's a little late now, but it may have been a good idea to run the pump when the head bolts were out and the head off, to flush out the oil passage."
I didnt ran the pump, but vacumm the hell out of the passages, even sucked up all the coolant found in the head. I missed that thought.....
Perfect time to flush out all that sludge that could be there....
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Well,it started fine
I changed oil, water (for now) and belts (no timming belt, recently replaced)
Now, do I need to change the oil, like when doing a break-in?
The only work performed was headgasket replacement and valve cushion install. Other than that, everything is OEM/stock. Of course, I did some tricks on the ports and intake runners.....je je
I was afraid that the cam will seize or something funky, why? I washed my head with Easy Off....big, big, big mistake. I didnt know that it can harm aluminum like that. Anyway, the only damage I could see was on the cam journals, they lost their polished look, but kept it smoothness. I polished the hell out of it with my Dremel and seems to be fine.
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"Now, do I need to change the oil, like when doing a break-in? "
The "Chevy Power Catalog", an official GM book of some years ago, had detailed instructions on engine building. It calls for assembly lube on cams and lifters, and advises to run the new engine for 20 minutes, then to change oil and filter, as the assembly lube will tend to clog the filter.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F/M46, dtr's 83-244DL B23F/M46, my 94-944 B230FD and 89 745 (LT-1 V8); hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)
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You used Easy Off?? So how is the casserole?? Tasty?? Jeegeeseee, anyway I doubt you hurt it. If you polished the journals, I hope you did not remove any material. I doubt you did that either, so Not to worry it will all work out in the end...Oh yea, the end, by the way, did you use a rear cam stop?? You know, the little metal plate you install to keep the cam from running out the end of the head and pushing the rear cam plug out causing you to lose all your oil in less than a minute.. hehehe-- Now I got him sweating....Nah just kidding, sounds like you did ok. But one thought, if you opened up the intake ports and maybe the intake manifold did you think about knife edging the throttle plate butterfly?? How about clipping the throttle plate screws even with the butterfly and using a red thread lock?? You would not believe the more-even throttle responce. Smoothes things out a little... I am sure you replaced the cam to take advantage of all this metal removing you did..hmmmm?? Well maybe next time..You did not say which 200 you have, is it turbo? a 2.1L or maybe a 2.3L?? V6?? 350 Corvette install? Sounds good, Max>:)
--
Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., V15 Phase II Cam Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights and now NEW ECODES with the turn signals, 1992 black 244 next project
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Yeah...... I didnt know that Easy Off (lye) would attack aluminum like that. Anyway, all the crud and sludge somehow protected the bare surfaces.
As for the mods, I did some work on the ports, specially on the exhaust, polished the hell out of them, smooth out the valve radius area. On the intake, I smooth out the imperfections, no polishing here as I am afraid of fuel puddling on that looong intake port. As for the plenum.... polish and gasket match. I already knife edged the TB plate as well as the screws. I thinned out the TB shaft as thin as possible. Too bad this manifold is a whole unit. I cant reach some parts, maybe some extrude hone next time. Cam still stock, will play with adjusting its timming later on.
I have a 240 DL non turbo 1992 that I revived from a long sleep.
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Finally someone that polished the TB plate and shaft. I used a flexable shaft hone to get into the manifold, worked great. Took a lot of meat off the inside and straight shot the passage for better flow. I agree about polishing the intake, it is better left a slight bit rough to allow the fuel particules to shatter and thin out some. IPD and others sell an adjustable timing gear but I do not think it is worth the expence unless you go to a taller cam. Even then it seems the bottom end loss is not that much or even noticable.
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., V15 Phase II Cam Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights and now NEW ECODES with the turn signals, 1992 black 244 next project
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The TB plate is way too thick. I trimmed is down to make a "leading edge"
As for the shaft itself. I trimmed down too, I was thinking on using a small filmstrip of metal between the screws (trimmed down too)
Also, the part of the TB tat gows toward the manifold is way too small compared to the manifold bore. I opened that area too.
I spent like 4 hours on the manifold, mostly looking for bottlenecks near the TB area.
Comparing to my other car (Nissan 240sx, same displacement) these volvo engines have a quite small TB and ports. Is there a bigger TB out there, maybe from another Volvo engine that could bolt on?
Where I can find a header for this engine?
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