tomorrow my old engine is coming out of its bay. The replacement is coming along well and will likely be dropped into place a couple weeks from now (after I've cleaned and possibly painted the engine bay).

1- how do i go about setting the timing on my rebuilt 2130 B20 before starting it? it would be nice to at least get it to the point where the engine will fire up and run, if perhaps rough. it's my understanding that, because the oil delivery system relies on engine speeds far above that which the starter motor provides, turning the engine over on the starter motor for long periods of time can be particularly detrimental for cam wear during the first few critical minutes of break in.

also,

2- my "new" engine was built with the IPD "performance cam kit." i was advised by an engine builder that it might be a good idea to remove the inner set of valve springs during the first 20-30 minutes of cam break-in, "if the outer set is sufficiently stiff on its own," (it's not like i'm going to be tacking 6k rpm during break in). can anyone speak to the wisdom (or lack thereof) in doing this with this particular application? are the outer (larger) springs that come with this kit roughly as stiff as stock B20 springs, or are they significantly softer?

as always, thank you all for your priceless knowledge.

new toy:

I think the moly lube on your cam renders it fairly safe. If your oil pump is
good and you have plenty of oil in the crankcase your oil pressure will probably
come up in less than 30 seconds, which at cranking speed is not very many revs.

IPD offers (and you can make) a shaft that goes in through the hole where your
oil pump drive fits and you can turn it with an electric drill to pressurize
your system. I have only used such an item to line up the oil pump shaft so
that I could stab the oil pump/distributor drive gearshaft to get the proper
orientation for the distributor. I've always used plenty assembly lube
including in the cylinders, and suspect no extreme initial wear with any of
the engines I have built.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Hello,

If you are putting that engine in your 122, make sure you clock the water pipe in the back of the head in the correct direction before installing.

It is a lot easier to turn that pipe when the engine is out of the car.

Eric
Hi Performance Auto Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90501

Mr. Happ;

Nice Pic!

Joe has already given link to my ignition including static timing info page (thanks Joe!)...that should help.

...as far as assuring oiling of the cam, did engine builder put assembly lube onto camlobes?...probably...but I'd still pour some additional oil down the pushrod holes at least before first crankover...if you feel confident in pulling one spring on each valve, I suppose that cant hurt...befor first start-up, I'd preoil by cranking over engine with no plugs, no fuel, no ignition, until oil oozes from between rockers... then make everything right, and start her up, and enjoy those wonderful first smells coming off a fresh engine...Yahooo!

Cheers

Ron-

Thank you very much for creating and hosting the information/resources on your swem site! The "Volvo Ignition from Scratch article is exactly the info I was looking for.

To answer your question, yes, the builder did coat the camshaft with moly cam lube. I had the pan off last weekend for a final inspection before I sealed it up with a new pan gasket..



At this point the plan is to pull the inner set of valve springs for break in.

What is the best way to prime the oil system/galleys on B18/B20 engines? My builder suggested using his pressurized oil injection apparatus to run the 4 quarts in through the oil pressure sender hole in the side of the block. Is this necesssary? Is there a better approach? You mentioned pouring oil down the pushrod holes before first crankover. I've also read that it's a good idea to put oil in the filter itself so that there is less "pressure-lag" on first startup.

Nice pic of the bottom end. I'm curious about the rear main cap oil drain hole not showing up in the pic. I never had a B-20, don't they have the drain. I always paid attention there to get just enough sealer on the gasket as not to have it cause a dam.

My two cents...

Never had dual valve springs so no comment, but my gut says "it couldn't hurt to remove them, but I wonder how much difference it really makes."

I always fill the oil filter with oil before start-up. Even when just changing the oil.

I like the idea of pouring oil down the pushrods.

Running 4 quarts through the oil sender hole sounds like overkill to me, but I also didn't build the engine.

I just prime the engine before start up with a shaft I made (see photo).
I either turn it counter clockwise by hand (prefered) or with a drill until I see oil coming out the rockers. I also oil or grease the tool liberally to prevent damaging the oil pump or the distributer shaft bushing.
It is simply a piece of 3/8" rod that I ground the end to match the bottom of the distributer shaft.

--
Tom - '60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '86 745T, '06 Mazda MPV

Ron's Swem site has loads of great 122 related info including static timing:

Swem Static Timing article

Beautiful looking engine. Take lots of pics while its clean - for posterity.

Best regards,

Joe M in WV

first mark your bottom pulley where the 0 is,with no plugs in the engine stick your finger into to #1 spark plug hole have your helper tap the starter till you feel the piston blow you finger out of the hole,look at the front pulley it should be close to 0 if not put a wrench on the bottom bolt and bring the engine to 0,next insert your dist so the rotor is pointing to the #1 wire on the cap,this will take some fussing you may have to remove the dist shaft gear several times to get it all pointing in the right direction. the pic of your your engine looks like its ready to go so maybe the builder already did all this for you, anyways thats the easy way to do it then just fire it up. Dick