Thanks for the helpful input on my tranny woes. Yes, in fact, the clutch fork was stuck. In retrospect, I should have noticed the arm not moving when I was bleeding the system after replacing the master and slave cylinders. I have adjusted the play (with the locknuts at the fork arm) at 3/16", per the Haynes manual. The tranny is still not shifting smoothly. Do I need to bleed the system again? And how do I tell if the arm is bent? Am I looking at pulling the tranny/clutch assembly?

Again, thanks for the help

Greg
1966 122S
Boise, Idaho

What's the wear on the fork of the clutch master like, mostly the hole is worn oval and that prevents the master from doing its job properly.

You should have just a bit of play, the clutch realease bearing must be away from the cover plate when driving normally, do get the return spring re-installed.

Incidentally if you just add to the original post it keeps the information together and saves going over the same stuff over and over. Adding a reply to the post bumps it back to the top.

The clutch master fork seemed OK (a little bit of "ovaling" on the cotter pin holes. I adjusted the pedal stroke per the Haynes at 5.5" of travel to the floor. I just bled the system again, after re-adjusting the play on the fork. With the clutch pedal in, while the car is running, I still can't smoothly engage any gears. With the car running I semi-forced the car into first gear, with the clutch pedal to the floor, I trying pushing the car. I can move the car while in gear, but is definitely more resistant than in neutral. What have I gotten myself into...

I'ver had big problems before getting clutches to work with oval holes on the fork of the master. You have to first fix that IMHO.

Try over adjusting the rod on the slave, you can't drive it like that, but it should tell you if its the clutch itself or the hydraulics.

Make sure the system is properly bled.

3/16" is WAY TOO MUCH!! The rod should turn freely but have minimal
end movement for proper clutch actuation. Try taking some of the slack
out and see if it doesn't do a LOT better!
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Greg;

I seriously doubt the arm is bent...the formed sheetmetal arms of the 140 fatigue, bend, and break....but I have yet to see the forged arm of the 122s fail in any manner...I suggest you have an assistant step on the clutch as you monitor just how much action results at the slave and throwout arm...(from memory) it should be at least an inch...if less, then I expect your not completely bled...so I'd hold off on pulling the car apart!!!

Good Hunting!