Howdy all,

Does anyone have theses pieces for sale or barter? Or, a viable workaround? I'm getting pretty tired of popping the hood every time I use the choke.

237178 Clamp, outer choke spiral (to 1966)
or
419452 Clamp ('67-'70)

237168 Ferrule, for choke cable
--
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 51 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL

Hi Shannon -

If bartering with friends doesn't work, ipd has what you're after:

http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=1608&NodeID=5112&RootID=629

Best,

Cameron
Rose City

Thanks Cameron, I don't know how I missed that. I guess I looked under the SU carb parts.
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Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 51 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL

I added a small diameter, fairly long, compression spring between the inner cable clamp on the carb and the part of the carb body that holds the outer cable housing. I cut it in such a way that there was a little tension on this spring when the choke was full off. A fairly simple way to cure the problem, make sure that the OD of the spring is small enough not to interfere with other parts as it is compressed. The diameter that I finally used is around .16" with about a .06" ID (about .05" wire diameter).
Hope this helps! It has been working for me.

Cheers!
OK

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try.
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Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 51 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL

Well, at least it is inexpensive to try! If things are really bent and hanging up on your carbs I would recommend as much 'preload' on the springs as you can manage to help them return.

Cheers! & good luck
OK

Shannon;

I'm not sure if were talking about choke cables or hood release cables here, but my recommendation for both is the same: Pull out inner cable clean, lube with graphite grease, reinsert!

...maybe they pull out of the clamps because they have so much resistance due to rust in the first place...improve gripping power of clamps by burring holding surface...like so:

Ron,

Putting that knurled pattern on the choke cable grip under the dash was one of the very first things I did on this car. I stumbled upon the SWEM site when I was researching parts for the car and that was something easy I could do.

The problem is at the carburetor end of the cable. Never having seen under the hood of another Amazon I did not know what device was used to hold the cable in place at the carbs. Recently I have been helping a young man who has jumped into Amazon rebuilding in a big way. On one of his four cars I saw the little clamps that hold the cable ends at the carbs. My car has no clamps there.

The choke works fine for several uses but eventually the spiral outer will work out of the holder at the carb causing the carb to stay on the fast idle cam when the choke is off.
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Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 51 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL

Shannon;

Although a solid (inner) cable like the choke can be used to push, the choke cable really only works by pulling up on the left side the control plate, which rotates the plate clockwise...it (should) return due to spring force generated by the spring behind the plate on the axle, no by you pushing it back (which is what I believe is a big part of the cause of the sheath poping oout of the end-holder)....


I suggest you clean and lube the chokeworks so that the return on their own...then you wont need to apply pushing force to return the choke plate to its home position...you just can't push a rope...

Cheers

Cool intake manifold dood!

Ron,

I agree that the mechanisms should return home with spring tension only. But they do not; even with the cables disconnected. A previous "rebuilder" installed the jets on the wrong carbs, front on rear and vise versa. When they realized that the choke mechanism would not clear the jet supply line, they did not (as I would have done) start over. Instead, they bent the Holy crap out of the choke mechanisms. When Tom Bryant rebuilt these carbs for me he straightened the mechanisms as best he could. But they are "sticky" because of misalignment that can only be corrected by replacing several pieces.

These carbs are not my final set. The original carbs are in the garage and I will rebuild those probably sometime in March or April. Unfortunately, those carbs suffered the same "rebuild" error and the same fix -- bend the crap out of the mechanisms. I just don't understand some people's kids.
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Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 51 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL

Don't know the part number but I could cough up at least one of the U-shaped
flat piece with a bigger slot in one side to grip the housing and a smaller
one to let the wire through on the other side.
If this will help e-mail me your address offline.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Thanks, will do.
--
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 51 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL