Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 1/2008 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Strange eletrial problems part 2 need some opinions. 200 1989

Ok he is the deal the heather fan * the one that blows hot and cold air inside the car* is dead. I have a coupple of options and I am not tackeling this one my self I just don't have the skill. Option one, Buy the fan motor which is $69 + shipping on vlvworl.com and pay $368 labor for the mechanic to take the dash apart and replace the motor. Option tow they take the kick panel off the center console and cut a hole in whatever is behinde it ( big plastic something) take the motor out and replace it and labor is like $55. If I go the cheap rout what is it that they will be cutting? The air ducts? any thing i need to be espicaly concerned about? This is what ever the big plastic thing is that is directly behinde the kick panel. PLEASE HELP!!! College student just trying to stay warm.



THANKS

Chris








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Strange eletrical problems part 2 need some opinions. 200 1989

You ask...

Option two they take the kick panel off the center console and cut a hole in whatever is behind it (big plastic something) take the motor out and replace it and labor is like $55. If I go the cheap route what is it that they will be cutting?

See if you can imagine this -

Inside the space behind the center control panel is a large box, like 2 shoe boxes back to front, three boxes high, almost a cube. That is the air box.

Inside it are the a/c evaporator coil, the heater core and the blower motor. Air comes in at the front of the top (from the grille in front of the windshield), goes through the evaporator and heater core, and goes out through the turbines at each end.

The turbines are inside housings that look like giant hockey pucks, 12 inches diameter and two inches thick. They are mounted vertically on each end of the air box, sorta like huge ears. Hollow, of course, made with two halves held together with clips around the outside perimeter.

The motor,pimted across the car, has a shaft out each end which stick into the turbine wheels, which are inside inside the housings. When spinning they blow air out through a bunch of ductwork that is controlled by the three square buttons on the control panel. There are many little vacuum actuators, the square buttons are vacuum valves.

The BIG LABOR method removes the clips to open up the two turbine housings so as to get at the turbines to pull them off the motor shafts. This requires dismantling the dash board and glove box, moving the control panel, removing the side kick panels and removing all the duct work.

The ICKY QUICKY method is to remove the side kick panels and cut a large hole in the outer face of the turbine housing to get at the turbine wheels and remove them, and then to then remove/replace the motor and resistor.

Done properly and carefully, the icky quicky method works fine. The challenge is to replace the cut out pieces so as to re-seal the turbine housings. The savings is that the ductwork and dash are not removed.

DO NOT do this job without replacing the resistor, too. It gets hot, and must be inside the air box for cooling. It is what gives the various speeds to the blower. It is actually three resistors in a thick ceramic coating.

Ask the guy who proposes the icky quicky method to walk you through it, showing you pictures in the process. Especially how he proposes to re-seal the turbine housings. Be not afraid, your common sense will do you well. In your shoes, I would go for it. And watch him do it (and be silent while watching). Ask if you can take pictures.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)















  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Strange eletrical problems part 2 need some opinions. 200 1989

THANKS SO MUCH! that helped tremindiously!








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Strange eletrial problems part 2 need some opinions. 200 1989

The blower motor sits in a plastic housing that brings fresh air in, through the blower motor and directs it to the appropriate vents. Basically it is like the furnace in your home. The long (and expensive) method is to dismantle everything and replace the motor. I just did it and 10 hours later I am warm. I took the time to service eveything on the way, clean everything, etc
Alternately you can cut a large hole in the side of the housing and change the motor without dismantling the dash. Then you glue the housing back together and you are warm.
I have heard there is little difference once you are done. Both ways are successful. If done right you should not notice a difference, except that you will have more beer money in your wallet.
You should change the resistor while there.
--
400,000KM and still ticking








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Strange eletrial problems part 2 need some opinions. 200 1989

I think that what you are describing has been called the "chain saw" method of fan replacement. Search the board and you should find instructions.







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.