|
|
|
Ok- so after two go-rounds with taking apart the struts apart on my wife's 88, and doing the same to my '92 wagon this morning, I'm starting to feel like a strut expert. I thought I'd share a couple tricks that I've come up with.
1. Sway bar. If you're doing this job alone, I recommend taking the sway bar apart where the link is bolted to the control arm- while this is different from the Bentley procedure, it seems to make it easier to get everything back together later without the need for an assistant.
2. Brake hose mount. It's only one 12mm bolt, but reassembly is a real PITA- I found that a needlenose vice-grip works great to hold everything together while you install the bolt.
3. Supporting the strut. Getting the strut out of the car is a physical challenge that sometimes requires that you physically stand on the a-arm to get enough clearance. Once the strut is out, I use a 1.5" wide web tiedown strap (the kind with metal hooks on the end) to support the strut (and save the brake lines) when its out of the car. Attach the hooks to the hole in the strut tower, tighten 'er up, and your good to go. So much easier not having to hold the strut. Fender cover is an essential for protecting the Fender.
4. Spring compressor. I am having great luck with the Craftsman spring compressor ($50). It looks like the same type sold by IPD, with wide seats for the spring and the locking pins. Use plenty of anti-seize on the threads before each use. Impact wrench is essential here unless you have lots of time and energy. Be sure the compressors are 180 degrees apart, and straight, and you should have no problems. Grab 4 coils and compress, alternating sides about every .5" of compression, until the distance between the two clamps is about 2.5". I use a screwdriver to pry around the upper spring seat to see if it's loose. BTW- keep your head well clear of the area above the spring at all times! When compressed, use the impact wrench to remove the strut rod nut.
5. Gland nut. There are many different types and shapes- this works on the three different types I was dealing with (Boge, Sachs, and KYB). I don't have any of the special tools for removing or installing the gland nut. Hopefully, the previous installer used antisieze and the old one will come right off (such as on my wifes '88) if you hold the strut with a pipe wrench and use a large channel lock to loosen the nut. If you are unlucky, and drive where there is a lot of salt, such as with my '92 wagon (ski car), the gland nuts will be rusted and seized and you will need to use PB Blaster followed by strong persuasion with an air hammer to remove them. This works ok but does destroy the gland nut. No problem if you have a new one. Careful not to damage the strut tube! BTW, use a new gland nut- I reused an old one on my wife's car, and it wouldn't tighten down properly. I had to take everything apart again to solve a mystery clunking sound.
Installation of the gland nut is accomplished by holding the strut with a large (24") pipe wrench and using a large channel lock pliers to grasp and turn the gland nut. I sit on a mechanics seat and hold the pipe wrench with my thighs while tightening the nut. This works very well, doesn't damage the nut, and you can get it nice and tight. BTW, a mechanic's seat make this entire job much more comfortable.
6. Putting strut back in car. I use a 3 ton floor jack to raise the strut once its in position. Getting it in position can be tricky. Again, standing on the A-arm may be required. A short pry bar can come in handy also. Mechanic's gloves will save your hands. Position the jack so you can reach it with one hand while holding the strut in position with your other. Slowly raise into position, check alignment, raise, etc. It will work. Make sure you maintain your alignment in some way, or you will be going to the alignment shop later. Its probably a good idea to do this any way.
7. Strut rod nut. The big 15/16" nut. Many theories on this one. I know that Bentley says to tighten this baby to 15 ft lbs and that IPD will sell you a special tool for $28 to do this. Bentley is wrong. From what I can tell, the torque spec is probably closer to 115 ft lbs, and the IPD tool and a 10mm wrench will not get you anywhere near this value. Once the car is back on the ground, use an impact wrench and tighten this baby up "gutentight". Its the only way I know to do this (unless you have the Volvo special tools), and get the nut tight enought that it won't make that god-awful clunking sound. When done, go and drive the car. If it clunks, its still not tight.
8. Miscellaneous. Take your time the first time through. You will get much faster. Keep all tools in reach. Allow plenty of clearance between the car and walls/obstructions to allow room to get the strut out of the car and have enough room to work. The flexible rubber brake lines can take a lot of abuse- more than you think. Pray that you don't have to take the whole damn thing apart again to solve a mystery clunk later!
Hope this helps someone! I apologize in advance if any of my so-called "tricks" are old-hat.
--
'92 240 wagon, 268k, '88 240 sedan 280k
|
|
-
|
|
|
Very nicely detailed procedure. Still, it is a dirty, hard job. I would add these tips from a pair I changed yesterday;I was doing the job by myself and had to figure out a way to get that heavy long assembly back on without help.
1. Only use Bilstein or better strut cartridges.The cheap ones I replaced looked like new, but had no gas charge.
Using your Impact wrench loosen the strut nuts 2 x 360 degrees before removing the assembly from the car.
2. Buy an 11 mm brake line wrench from Orielly. If the brake lines do not loosen easily, heat the line below the brass nut with a torch and it will break loose easily. Do this before you try vise grips and mangle the soft brass nut. ( Ask how I know )
3. Screw your Volvo jack to a 18" 2" x 6", for stability. After removing the ball joint bolts, bolt one of the twin ball joint holes to the hole in the top of your jack using the ball joint nut and bolt. Then run the jack to the ground.
After taking the tower nuts off, you can lower the strut assembly to gain clearance with your jack. Leave the jack attached, it will be at the correct height for reassembly.
4.Dont hurt your back.
Even with a helper, putting the assembly back on the car is difficult, ( and a good way to say something to your wife you will regret. The Volvo jack "helper" makes it slower, but a one man job.
|
|
-
|
|
Bilstein (B6) HD won't fit the newer 1988 (I'm about certain on late 1989 and wholly certain on 1990) or so+ 240 front struts ABS or no. The optional 240 front strut spacer is permanent from that time onward.
You will read articles here and elsewhere how Bilstein (B6) HD prevents the HD gland nut not fully engaging the full length of thread interface. Barely a turn or two of thread should show above the top edge of the strut with fully seated strut damper (still want to write dampener).
Yes, loosen the nut that secures the strut piston cartridge to the strut mount through the strut mount bearing assembly under the dust cap. I use an impact wrench to break loose the strut cartridge piston retain nut.
I choose to raise the front corner to gain access to the cartridge retaining gland nut. Yet do not raise the tire from the ground. Use a gland nut wrench or chain wrench. A precarious engagement, indeed. Enough to loosen the gland nut one turn or so.
At prima fascia, the original 2007 post here appears okay as do follow-on posts refine the message. I did not know Bentley omits the step to disconnect the stabilizer bar from the control arm and the hard brake line to flex at the bottom edge of the inner fender. My Bentley 240 softcover manual was stolen, or I forgot and left it. The guy had my number. I did not have his.
I've not ever had to open brake lines to replace a strut cartridge. Unless something went wrong. Not has to disconnect the lower ball joint. Unless I meant to do so as part of the task (ball joint, brake lines).
As Haynes prints, re-installation (or reassembly) is the reverse of removal. Beh.
I'll tighten the glad nut to snug to retain the assembly. Same with the strut mount (Volvo PN 1272455) atop the compressed spring with damper piston rod through the strut mount bearing. I have noted that some strut cartridges, like the terrible made in Mexico Sachs for the Americas market and the Bilstein (B4) Touring, at the tapered or conical section below the piston thread may be longer than the later Made in Chinesium strut mounts. So, you may need to trip to the hardware home improvement store to stack durable washers in the strut mount bearing well beneath the piston retain but that secure the strut mount to the strut cartridge piston.
Never anti-seize on the gland nut to strut tube thread interface. Clean the thread inside the strut tube. Some service manuals suggest the use of thread locker. I believe blue or read threadlocker? I've encountered red thread locker each time at disassembly of the gland nut to strut tube thread. Clean that off with some brake parts cleaner, inspect the thread inside the top of the strut tube.
I also use a trolley (floor) jack to support and raise the reassembled. I use a foot to move the thing and raise the jack saddle while aligning the three strut mount studs through the three inner fender holes.
Repeat for the opposite side.
Apply final torque to the gland nut and the piston retaining nut.
I'll look up the Craftsman spring compressors from an earlier post in this thread. Rather the sping compressor threaded rod elongate downward and not up into the fender well. I've used these that perform this way yet the tool rental shop have the spring compressors where the threaded rode extends upward and scrapes undercoat and finish off. Terrible.
A few reminders ... the 240 strut mount (Volvo PN 1272455) is garbage and that includes OEM some time after China Geely bought Volvo Cars. Please read this Turbobricks site article about the Volvo OEM strut mount. OEM and aftermarket 240 strut mounts are all junk, unless ANYONE can provide info otherwise, and I'm grateful if so. They all use inferior bushing material and sealed bearings that are unsuitable for transverse stress as the little Volvo 240 suspension goes up and down. This Volvo strut mount quality issue persists into 2010+ Volvo models as I read about it. The issue is fully infuriating.
At least the OP here pays for his Photobucket account so we can see the images. (Use the brickboard BrickPix image gallery.)
http://turbobricks.org/forums/showthread.php?t=315522
Kaplhenke camper plates unless you want to replace the Made in China garbage strut mount every 18-26 months. The assembly is too expensive to mimic the former OEM quality with open top the top ball bearing assembly from SKF or Timkin. I'd hope David Samuels or some fabricator would use urethane and a quality method to bond the urethane to the outer and inner steel bit.
SKF made a good mount and Boge was OEM for a short sometime after the 240 production run. Some mention or at least use Febi (Bilstein) mount. Dunno if Febi is better.
Also, while this brickboard ceaselessly and unendingly advocated Bilstein (B6) HD ... avoid these. Should you get the Volvo OEM strut cartridge washer and bellow to limit ambient condition exposure to the elements as used on 240 Turbo with de Carbon dampers (predates Bilstein HD with the same monotube high pressure damper design), or if you use the blue bellows Bilstein gives that tear easily and fail, Bilstein HD has a nasty habit allowing water intrusion through the piston seal at the top of the HD damper. Fine until it gets to the cold months, and then you get seized dampers. This issue is rather consistent among all brands that may use HD dampers. I read about this on BMW and other forums. Perform a web search as to seized Bilstein HD dampers.
I much prefer Bilstein (B4) Touring. They are in now way the same as the Made in Germany Boge Turbo Gas during and some years after the 240 production period.
Your other solution is maybe Koni. Some articles mention I guess made in UK GAZ brand dampers, yet you get these from YoshiFab, I guess. 240 is not in the GAS catalogue. KYB and aforementioned Made in Mexico Sachs (though these are heavy dampers). iPd for years named these as Boge and charged rip-off prices for these. As the community now knows they are about junk, yet better than KYB (GR-2 or Excel-G [whatever the name] and the monotube high pressure Gas-A-Just for 240 rear only), iPd dropped the price in the last few years on Sachs.
Suspension work was better on the 1970s and early 1980s 240s. Also enjoyed the pain in the gulliver 140s and 164. Or at least enjoyed the results.
Remember, with solid bushings, apply final torque on the alignment rack. Never in the air.
My £0.02 worth. FWIW.
--
Donate NOW! Give your brickboard.com a big DONATION!!! Find the ![]("https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/btn_donate_SM.gif") on brickboard pages!
|
|
-
|
jonny5
|
|
-
|
|
Thanks so much. You've reinforced my decision to get a mechanic to install my struts! I had enough trouble replacing my brake pads.
--
...
'92 245, Black & Tan, Virgo Mags, 130K
|
|
-
|
|
|
Its not a bad job really. Certianly not very technical. But you do need some tools and a decent place to work. An air or electric impact wrench is most helpful. Rusted parts can be problematic.
--
'92 240 wagon, 268k, '88 240 sedan 280k
|
|
-
|
|
|
Sorry to disagree, but in my experience getting the struts off and back on again is nothing like as difficult as you say.
Firstly, if your brake pipe brackets don't already have the slots in the side, cut them, so you can slide the pipes out. That way you don't have to dismantle the brakes at all, just hang the caliper up safely.
I didn't find it necessary to use a jack to support the strut. I found by squatting under the wheel arch I could lower the strut, turn it through 90 degrees, and wind it out from the coiled up brake pipes by resting it on my knees. It's not that heavy, and I found it very easy.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Eh? I don't dismantle the brakes at all. Undo brake hose support and leave everything intact. The caliper stays on the strut!
--
'92 240 wagon, 268k, '88 240 sedan 280k
|
|
-
|
|
|
But you have then disconnected the brake lines? My method was so as to avoid disconnecting and bleeding.
Or do you mean you do the entire overhaul with the strut still connected to the brake lines?
|
|
-
|
|
|
I don't disconnect the brakes at all- strut stays on the car, tipped out from under the fender, while I do the work. Brake lines remain connected; caliper remains mounted the entire time. My cars are too old to risk messing with those connections!
--
'92 240 wagon, 268k, '88 240 sedan 280k
|
|
-
|
|
|
I like it. I never thought of that. I suppose I thought I'd need to be able to hold the strut firmly in a vice to dismantle it. Or do you have a special workbench 2 feet high to slide under the wheel arch?
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be joseph morton
on
Tue Feb 13 02:05 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
Special workbench. That was meant to be funny, eh? If one reads the green book, there is a special workbench of sorts with a special tool number on it - 5045 - a hook made of stiff wire called a retainer designed to hold the strut assembly just outside of the wing. Brake hydraulics remain intact. The only imagined use for a vise, as you ask, might be if you neglected to loosen the gland nut before disconnecting the top journal, but I suppose an overgrown pipe spanner would do the trick.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Cliff-
A large pipe wrench and channel locks seems to work fine to dismantle the strut. No vise is needed. I use an air hammer to spin the gland nut off if it is severely rusted. Of course, this pretty much ruins the gland nut.
--
'92 240 wagon, 270k, '88 240 sedan 281k
|
|
-
|
|
|
Well, thanks for that information. That's something to remember for next time, perhaps in another 350,000 miles.
|
|
-
|
|
|
When I did struts in my 740, I did a couple of things slightly differently.
I had a vise with pipe jaws, in which I clamped the strut tube (careful not to overtighten and crush it) and used a pipe wrench on the gland nut.
I reused the old gland nuts, which appeared to be in good condition, (they unscrewed with no difficulty) and much sturdier than the new ones that came with the KYB cartridges. They tightened down OK and I have had no problems with them working loose.
The torque spec (in Haynes) for the strut top nut is 111 ft.-lbs. I didn't get one of them tight enough on the first attempt---it soon loosened and started clunking. I then used a large Crescent wrench on the 10mm flats and a box end on the nut itself, and tightened it as tight as I could get it. It has given no further trouble.
|
|
-
|
|
Bentley is wrong
I'm not sure about this. Bentley does contain errors. And 15 lb ft doesn't seem like much but another source states 18 (Haynes) & yet another 15-25 (Chilton's) which apparently is in disagreement with your edition. I seem to recall that's where your figure came from.
I can say 15 is what I used on the '80 a couple of years ago and no clunks, no loose top nut. It is, or should be, self locking.
Now the IPD tool is kind of a piece of s**t. I know because I bent one. I have decried it on this forum. But it works quite well with the lower torque value. Maybe that's why they didn't spec a harder metal. I really have no idea, though. Recently, I used it to loosen the nuts on the '89 wagon. They were tight but came loose with no great effort. I retorqued them to 15. Everything is still normal. These, by the way, had a recessed hex instead of the wimpy-assed flats found on many dampers. It's a definite advantage.
That was just a dry run. I'm preparing to change the wagon's dampers this weekend so your other observations will be very useful.
Didn't your clunking problem turn out to be the gland nut?
--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be yday
on
Tue Mar 20 14:38 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
your site is very good http://payday-loan-canada-news.info http://payday-loan-online-news.info http://payday-loan-store-news.info
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be new
on
Tue Mar 20 09:00 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
your site is beatiful http://loan-till-payday-news.info http://military-payday-loan-news.info http://no-fax-payday-loan-news.info
|
|
-
|
|
Hey dummy. Why don't you look at the robot rules. You have accomplished nothing.
--
The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt. —Bertrand Russell
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be ayday
on
Mon Mar 19 14:16 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
nice site! http://cheap-payday-loan-news.info
http://easy-payday-loan-news.info http://faxless-payday-loan-news.info http://loan-til-payday-news.info
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be fghfg
on
Wed Mar 7 09:11 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be roid
on
Wed Mar 7 01:09 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be bspawne
on
Sat Mar 3 23:22 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
|
|
-
|
|
|
Which IPD tool are you talking about that is a piece of hooey? And are you talking about the gland nut at this point?
|
|
-
|
|
|
This one -
http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=1416&NodeID=4504&RootID=629
The metal is pretty soft. However, it does work fine if the previous installer didn't wail away at the strut top nut (not the gland nut) the way some people on this board insist you must do.
I recently removed the original strut cartridges (they were the genuine Volvo part) from my '89 wagon and I used this tool. The top nut was tight, but not so much so that I had to resort to drastic measures. It broke loose with the IPD tool and VG's clamped to the flats on the damper. The fact that they were fast but not immovable indicates to me that Volvo did not intend for this nut to be torqued to the values suggested here lately, which verge on the ridiculous.
I also used the tool and a 7mm hex bit on the torque wrench with it set to ratchet CCW. Torque value - 15 lb ft. Guess what...It's good. Not loose. Not clunky. And, in spite of what some will tell you, it's not going to work itself off. Remember, you get a new self locking nut with any insert you buy and once in place the nut turns with the bearing which turns with the damper rod. It's not going anywhere.
--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be st4free
on
Sat Mar 3 05:30 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be wardsp
on
Sat Mar 3 00:06 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be lupa1
on
Thu Mar 1 01:06 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be oke
on
Wed Feb 28 13:29 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be unnyp
on
Wed Feb 28 10:49 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be serol
on
Wed Feb 28 06:57 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
|
|
-
|
|
|
Strut Replacement Procedure. Also study Bentley 720-2, 720-5, the IPD catalogue tech tips, and other sources like this thread. There are various approaches that work. The main thing is to be safe about it. No guarantees as to accuracy of this list. Works for me.
1. Loosen top strut nut one turn with wheels on the ground
2. Put car on jackstands, at least the front
3. Remove front wheels
4. Loosen gland nuts
5. Remove end link top nuts. 17mm socket
6. Remove brake line bracket bolts. 12mm socket
7. Remove inner brake line clamps. 8mm socket
8. Disconnect tie rods. 18mm
9. Release fasteners for front and rear A-arm bushings.
10. Put jack under A-arm near wheel.
11. Release then remove 3 nuts on top of strut tower under hood. 13mm
12. Carefully lower strut assembly to outside of fender.
13. Support with two 3/16 rod special hooks into sway bar hole.
14. Compress spring safely. 3 coils between jaws of compressor.
15. Remove top strut nut. Air impact wrench if not reusing strut.
16. Remove bearing mount, spring seat, spring, bumpstop/boot.
17. Remove strut gland nut.
18. Pull out old strut, compare length to new, put in new.
19. Tighten gland nut with NeverSeize. Make sure nut is not fully seated into tube and not bottoming out on tube itself. Make sure new strut insert is held tightly in tube.
20. Clean spring seat.
21. Install compressed spring, bump stop, spring seat, bearing/mount.
22. Tighten top nut (15 lbs) using Lisle special tool. Don’t spin strut inside itself.
23. Release spring compressors carefully, making sure spring is seated properly.
23. Raise strut assembly into strut tower while guiding end link into sway bar.
24. Torque top 13mm nuts to 15 pounds.
25. Tighten gland nut some more.
26. Torque tie rod ends to 44 lbs. with Loctite.
27. Install wheels on car. Put weight of car on wheels. Bounce car a bunch. Roll back and forth a bit if possible to settle front tires.
28. Torque front and rear A-arm bushing bolts to specs.
--
Thanks for all the help. DougC 1981 242, Turbo bars and wheels, M46 ----------- 1993 245, B230 NA L-Block, M46, Turbo bars.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I still think Bentley could be wrong. My old Chilton specifies 15-25 ft lbs for the three 13mm strut mount nuts. It specifies 90-100 ft lbs for the 15/16" strut rod nut. Haynes lists 18 ft lbs for the 13mm strut mount nuts but does not list a torque spec for the 15/16" strut rod nut. Some bricksters have also posted that the 700 series strut rod had a torque spec of something like 110 ft lbs. It stands to reason that the 200 series strut should be similar. 15 ft lbs doesn't seem like much for that fastener, IMO. One guy posted that he thought it should be "one of the highest torque value fasteners on the car". At any rate, it should be tight, and should not clunk. If 15 ft lbs gives you that, so be it.
And yes, on my wifes '88, the clunking was caused by a reusing a worn gland nut which wouldn't hold. New struts and gland nuts solved that problem. This morning, I installed new struts in my '92 wagon and had a slight clunk from the right shock tower on the test drive. Tightened the strut rod nut with an impact wrench and no more clunk.
--
'92 240 wagon, 268k, '88 240 sedan 280k
|
|
-
|
|
I remember your 15 ft-lbs post.
Does anyone have a 240 front suspension green book? I thought I might have one, but no joy. It'd be good to check all our bases... and comforting to have the right number.
-Ryan
--
--------------------------
Athens, Ohio
1990 245 DL 130k M47, E-codes
1991 745 GL 280k (Girlfriend-mobile)
Buckeye Volvo Club
|
|
-
|
|
|
Per the green book:
15lbs for the three mounting nuts
No specs for the strut nut?
Front Wheel Suspension April 1989
Mario
--
82 242 DL-MPG
|
|
-
|
|
|
Signed up to respond and because i'd sure like this little upper strut nut mystery demisted before unpacking my front end to install new struts. My green volvo manual contradicts my gut instinct to torque that thing down with an impact wrench. On page 12 of my Jan1990 edition of the Volvo Front Suspension and Steering manual, it lists the torque value for the "front shock absorber upper nut" as 14.7 ft/lbs. Now i take that to read as the top strut nut and NOT the 3 "wheel housing" nuts which they list at the same 14.7 ft/lbs value. No torque references are mentioned for the top nut in the illustrated procedural portion of the manual.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hello,
My manual is for front suspension only and does not show any values for the top nut. Just to make things interesting my Chilton manual shows the top nut torgue setting at 15-25ft. lbs. So I guess anything from 15 to 115 lbs is ok!. When I did my last year I just tightened by feel and everthing is fine. This is all so confusing.
Mario
--
82 242 DL-MPG
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be joseph morton
on
Tue Feb 13 01:59 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
Yeah man, neither strut nut is spec'd in the green book. That could be on account of the wild variations folx would come up with trying to measure torque against a less than solid counterhold (top nut) and use of the spanner (gland nut). I agree with your range. 15-115. Fifteen is enough to make the rod one with the bearing's inner race - the locknut keeps it there - and 115 should be under what it would take to crush and distort the bearing.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Here's an old thread on the subject:
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=964471
It was about 900 series, but the strut assembly is similar to a 240.
--
'92 240 wagon, 268k, '88 240 sedan 280k
|
|
-
|
|
|
Very well described .
When I did it last summer I had to re open it for another reason . There was a ring at the bottom of tube which I could not get out . So when I replaced them with KYB ones they were sitting 2 mm higher than the pipe lip and I used the new gland nut to fix them. These new ones were quite short as compared to old gland nut(less number of threads) .
One day it got in to me that new nut is not sturdy enough because of less number of thread So I re did the whole stuff and used the old gland nut.
Regards
Gopesh
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks! Narratives by real people on projects like this are unbelieveably helpful and always welcome. Makes it a little easier to visualize.
-Ryan
--
--------------------------
Athens, Ohio
1990 245 DL 130k M47, E-codes
1991 745 GL 280k (Girlfriend-mobile)
Buckeye Volvo Club
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be Dschwied
on
Tue Feb 13 05:47 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
|
|
Agreed. This is the best kind of information you can get.
|
|
|
|
|
