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Coincidentally, I'm about to do the same.
I'm deathly afraid of having the small line rupture due to hitting a hot exhaust manifold or a sharp metal edge (happened once in my youth, although with an OK ending), so my preparations may seem a bit overboard.
At the block end, the fitting is a straight metric 14x1.5 male with a 1/8 NPT female, but get one that uses an O-ring seal on the male side, or be prepared to deal with an oil drip every now and then. You can get that fitting from egauges.com, or possibly at good auto supply houses.
From the metric-SAE adapter on the block, I'm using steel braided PTFE hose to the passenger-side fender well (McMaster-Carr 4468-K107, 24" for $12). This gets the nylon line away from the exhaust manifold and the alternator, it's rugged and vibration won't be a problem. On the fender, I'm mounting a 1/8 NPTF female brass tee (McMaster 4757-T41, $6). At the tee, one end will connect to the nylon hose which goes to the O/P gauge with the compression fittings usually supplied with the gauge + hose kit. Since the OEM oil pressure switch is metric and the tee isn't, I'm using a new O/P switch from an 80's vintage Chevy truck - find it in the NAPA listings; it has a 1/8 NPT male thread and the switch closes at 6 psi. This way you retain the important idiot light on the dash as well as the gauge readout.
Be careful routing the nylon line (DON'T use copper - not good for a vehicular environment) thru the firewall. Use an existing hole for wiring harnesses, since they're already protected with good grommets. Alteernatively, CAREFULLY drill thru the firewall in a SAFE location and use a piece of fuel line RTV'd in place as a grommet to protect the line, but that's too much work for me.
I assume you're using the stock gauge mounts already in the dash; there's lots been written on that already on the BB and it's pretty straightforward. You'll have to splice into the dash lighting; straightforward as well.
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Thank goodness we don't get all the government we pay for. -- Wiley Post
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