I was driving when the timing belt broke ('87 240--200K). I was near a Midas shop and they said they could do it. I asked him to use Volvo parts. They replaced the belt but not the tensioner. But now there's a whining noise -- not loud but noticable -- that wasn't there before -- kind of like a snowtires-on-dry-pavement whine. Otherwise, it seems okay -- I've driven it for two days so far. But does it take a while for the belt to seat in -- could that be causing the noise? Or did the mechanic mess something up? Or am I just getting bugged over nothing? Suggestions much appreciated. Thanks.

You went to Midas and made it home? WOW!

IMHO the full name of Midas is Reverse Midas. For King Midas all that he touched turned to gold. For the reverse, everything touched turns to S_ _ _.

If you remove the upper part of the timing belt cover, an easy job, you can see if the belt still says "Volvo" on it.

AFter 5000 miles, the belt usually stretches a little. Look at the lower part of the upper timing belt cover, locate the rubber plug. With care, that plug can be removed. Use a 17mm socket on a short extension to loosed the nut in there one turn. The re-tighten it. That's it, the belt is re-tensioned.

Putting the rubber plug back in is a little tricky. )If it pops all the way in, the whole works must be reopened to get it out.) Dip a little ATF from the power steering reservoir and smear it into edge of the hole. Then work the plug in, going around an around. Can be done.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Another possibility is that they over tightened a drive belt or two...
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Athens, Ohio
1990 245 DL 130k M47, E-codes
1991 745 GL 280k (Girlfriend-mobile)
Buckeye Volvo Club

I agree with rstarkie.
I'm sure that not too many Volvos have entered their doors for a timing belt.
I would guess that the Belt is rubbing the upper cover. You can unscrew the top and take out some of the bolts to get an eyeball down the cover and take a look.

Maybe first, take out the rubber plug and see if they tightened the Tensioner bolt.

I'm guessing the Bolt is loose or the nipple on the tensioner is not seated in the Engine Block causing it to shift the belt toward the Covers.

Let Midas know ASAP.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

HI!

I think, that it is better to take contact them as soon you able to. If the sound started same time, there can be something wrong. The belt has no "setting" time. It is useless to think, is sound harmless or not. Do not take any risks, that can cost a lot of money. In worst case a whole engine repaired. Hope all works out.

YRS: WEBERMAN

Perhaps they did not allow the tensioner to self adjust the tension on the belt? I do not know why they would to that but anything is possible when someone works on unfamiliar equipment. I can not imagine that Midas does many Volvo timing belts. I had a Lotus powered Jensen Healey that had a manual tensioning device and I had it too tight after a belt change. It sounded like it had a belt driven blower on it when I started it up.

Another possibility is that they perhaps removed the tensioner and did not seat it properly upon reinstalling it. That would cause the belt to track incorrectly and rub on the plastic cover.

Randy

"Another possibility is that they perhaps removed the tensioner and did not seat it properly upon reinstalling it. That would cause the belt to track incorrectly and rub on the plastic cover."

i agree.

or the noise could be as simple as the timing belt cover rubbing on the water pump pully. did that on my first timing belt change on a 240.

the timing belt DOES NOT have to "set" or "wear into place". no way. no how.

the belt could be going f.u.b.a.r as we speak. get something in writting from them, or keep the paper work in your car, since they did the job.

it is not hard to do a 240 timing belt as long as the individual has mechanical skills. read next sentence.

this is an excellent reason for having a bently or chilton manual (for your car) in the trunk. just incase an unfimilar has to work on it -they'll have a point of reference.

in your case, something is not quite right and needs to be adjusted. the front will need to be torn down again, inspected, and the issue addressed.

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