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OK flushed out the radiator, put in new hoses, new thermostat.
Start the car everything sounds good, let it idle for 10-15 minutes
Temp gage says normal and go to turn on the heat. NO HEAT!!! Only cold air.
Look up front, the upper hose is getting warm, but the top quarter of the drivers side radiator (hose area) is getting really hot, and just getting worse.
Theres got to be a reason for all of this.
Also the thermostat that I got from the store didnt look like the old one and didnt have the little vent on the top of it.
PLEASE HELP
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The best method I've found to prevent airlock is, start with the block drain open and heater control on full.
Fill until water starts coming out of drain, close drain, fill to max line on resevoir.
My next step is to take the car on a test drive, the varied engine speeds, corners, and hills work to release all of the air pockets.
I find that driving works a lot better than idling in the driveway.
Good luck,
--
Bruce S. near D.C.
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Well a new twist on things
I pulled the return line from the heater-core from inside the 240. I got alot of fresh coolant coming back at me with nothing coming from the core. Then I kind of tinkered around the engine trying to see if maybe the incoming line was plugged. Couldnt get the hose off and got pissed so I went and pulled the return line again. This time got coolant coming from both sides, tightend everything up and kicked the tires and lit the fires. And what do ya know? "NOT MUCH, YOU?" Eveything warmed up fine, took it out for a spin, and everything seemed good. Got plently of heat from the defrost and no leakage that I can see.
GOT ME
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Well a new twist on things
I pulled the return line from the heater-core from inside the 240. I got alot of fresh coolant coming back at me with nothing coming from the core. Then I kind of tinkered around the engine trying to see if maybe the incoming line was plugged. Couldnt get the hose off and got pissed so I went and pulled the return line again. This time got coolant coming from both sides, tightend everything up and kicked the tires and lit the fires. And what do ya know? "NOT MUCH, YOU?" Eveything warmed up fine, took it out for a spin, and everything seemed good. Got plently of heat from the defrost and no leakage that I can see.
GOT ME
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Ok, well put in the old thermostat and filled up the fluids.
This time the needle took its time and got to the middle with no probs.
Turn on the heat and got some warm air coming through, not the ice cold air from before. Also, the radiator did the same thing started cooking from the top drivers side upper hose area and worked its way back. Engine pretty hot as well as waterpump. Checked the heater-core waterhoses and top (incoming) was warm, lower (return) was cold.
I'm going to drain the entire coolant system from the plug on the bottom passenger side of the block, refill it and try it again. If that doesnt work.
The only thing I can think of is a blockage of a heater-core or a poopy waterpump.
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So what's the problem? If the needle is central the engine is at the right temperature, the inlet of the rad is supposed to be cooler than the outlet and your heater is working, again the inlet is supposed to be hotter than the outlet.
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I guess the problem is that I feel the heater should be blowing hotter air and the radiator is getting way too hot for the rest of it to be so cold.
Just trying to save my car for work and life in general.
Thanx for all the help and advice
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If there isn't a vent hole on the thermostat, the cooling system tends to airlock on refilling. Secondly your rechnique is wrong, you fill the cooling system with the heater valve open. The heater core needs to be full of coolant to be able to do any actual heating. Sounds like an air lock to me.
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Yes. Correct thermostat for car has a vent hole with "jiggle pin" in hole, located in rim of thermostat. Hole has to be at the high point of t'stat when installed. This lets air bubbles bleed from system.
Of course you should have the heater valve open when filling, and also when warming it up the first time. Also don't be in a huge hurry to screw on the cap on the reservoir - many people leave cap off while it idles up to normal temp.
The design + layout of the coolant plumbing will let air bubbles out automatically as long as the heater valve is open when filling, and the t'stat vent hole is at the high point. They float up and end up in the reservoir which has a pressure release vent.
--
Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors. Wifemobile '89 245 NA stock. 90 244 NA spare, runs.
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Same thing happened to me my first time doing a flush. I forgot to have the heater in the on postion. This stops coolant from filling up the heater core and hoses. Once you get a nasty airlock just drain again. Start again open the heater switch first. Then slowley fill up the reservoir. Let it run for 15 mins with the cap off and top up as needed.
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Related question.
How can pressure build up in the cooling system when there's an overflow hose off the reservoir (at least there is on my 940)? The main cap of course is a calibrated pressure seal; but isn't the overflow just an open port?
--
David Armstrong - '86 240(350k km?), '93 940T(270k km), '89 240(parts source for others) near Toronto
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If you are referring to the small hose at the top of the reservoir, that's not an 'overflow' hose. It's an air bleed from the top of the radiator to make sure that the rad fills right up. It should be connected to the small nipple on the upper right corner of the rad. That way it's a closed system with the only way out via the pressure cap.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F/M46, dtr's 83-244DL B23F/M46, my 94-944 B230FD and 89 745 (LT-1 V8); hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)
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You have it right. Of course this makes sense; it couldn't build pressure otherwise.
Don't know what I was thinking. When I was replacing the water pump recently, I thought I confirmed that this hose vented to the road, but indeed, it goes to the rad as you said. I must have been fabricating this recollection of checking it - thinking of some other car's windshield washer reservoir vent or something. Sometimes I wonder how this brain gets anything done!
--
David Armstrong - '86 240(350k km?), '93 940T(270k km), '89 240(parts source for others) near Toronto
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Its more of an airlock problem. The water pump can only move fluids and unfortunatly air in the system creates a back pressure that sometimes cannot be overcome. If the airlock happens somewhere near or at the thermostat then it won't open.
The only other thing it could be is a clogged rad or hose but thats a stretch. So its gotta be an airlock.
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