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Dear Steve,
May this find you well. Temperature change can affect electrical connections: metals contract as they chill. Thus, falling temperatures can cause a weak solder joint may to open up.
I'd suggest checking the radio interference suppression relay, also known as the fuel injection relay. On a turbo-equipped car, this relay will be found on the driver's side inner fender wall (USA/Canada models), just behind the headlight. This relay is very dark brown/black; about 2" tall, 1" thick, and 1.5" wide. It has a four-pin connector. The solder joints on relays/control units in mid-1990s cars are subject to micro-cracks. These disrupt current flow, but may be far too small to be seen with an unaided eye.
They are easily cured. Take a soldering iron (up to 25 watts) and apply to the joints on a printed circuit board, for 1-2 seconds. When the solder changes color - from dull gray to silvery - you've re-liquefied the solder, and closed any micro-crack.
At the base of the fuel injection relay, there's a thin coat of a rubbery sealant. Peel this away to access the inside of the relay. You can release the relay case locking tabs with the tip of a knife. The relay's "innards" - a small printed circuit board - will come out easily. Reflow all accessible solder joints: the micro-crack likely will not be obvious.
If this cures the problem, get a replacement relay, and keep the repaired relay as a back-up.
A worn distributor cap/rotor may also be a source of difficulties.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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