Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 4/2015 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Alternator Output (disregard previous messages) 200 1991

Replaced my Brush/Regulator assembly last year. Bought it from NAPA. Seemed decent and it had an adjustable regulator that I thought was nifty. Alternator was operating just the brushes were at end of life. I can adjust the reg to 13.40V at low and 13.90 volt at high at the battery. I figured i should get 14.2V.
Thought maybe the wiring was a little aged so 13.9 was acceptable. I have had a few weak/dead battery issues lately so I am questioning the alternator or wiring. Draw on the battery power off/key out is 0.01amp. I figure that is the radio memory circuit or other non threatnening memory circuits.
Taking voltage readings during operation I will get anywhere from 13.38V -13.88V depending on accesorries used like lights, seat heater, heater fan, or other current eaters.
Is this acceptable? Will you get minor voltage fluctuations when you operate the turn signals or brakes or should the alternator regulate this to 14.2 smoothly?
Maybe the cheap battery I bought at Wal-Mart is junk (don't laugh it was the only store open at 9PM on a wintery Sunday 6 years ago)
ideas? Anyone?








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Agree: aging Battery, most likely 200 1991

    Those charging voltages are what I typically see on both the 83 and the 81, and yes - there are minor fluctuations when turning on lights or accessories, then the system gets back up to 13.8 or so. Both cars have fairly fresh batteries and there are no electrical problems.

    If you go to a NAPA or AutoValue, etc., they often will load-test your battery right in the car. That should tell the story.
    --
    Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F/M46, dtr's 83-244DL B23F/M46, my 94-944 B230FD and 89 745 (LT-1 V8); hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    It may be your 6-yr old battery .... 200 1991

    re: "...I will get anywhere from 13.38V -13.88V depending on accesorries used .... it was the only store open at 9PM on a wintery Sunday 6 years ago)..."

    Those voltages seem a little low.

    On my three cars ('84 to '93), they all start off (i.e., cold start, in the morning) charging the batteries up to about 14.2 volts, and then (as they should) let the voltage diminish to about 13.9 to 14 volts. It's basically temperature compensation -- proper charging voltage is inversely related to temperature. Ideally, it's the battery's temperature*, but it's not practical in a car, so it's related to temperature in and around the alternator -- but the gist is that the colder it is, the higher the charging temperature should be.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Sidebar: * on cruising sailboats that contain large banks of batteries to run on-board systems for days or weeks at a time while on a blue-water cruise, and in varying climates from the tropics to the high latitudes, proper care of these expensive and vital batteries is crucial, so the best on-board charging systems employ temperature probes attached to the sides of the batteries.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    But your question may have been answered by you -- perhaps your already 6-year old battery is near the end of it's life, and your prior problem (now fixed with new brushes/regulator) may also have hastened it's demise by not keeping it charged properly. Failure to keep it properly charged isn't healthy for any battery -- all sorts of things like sulfation can build up.

    Anyway, maybe it just can't be charged up to proper voltage anymore -- I'll bet that if you put a new battery in there, you'll see a new range of voltages right away.

    Good luck.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

      It may be your 6-yr old battery .... 200 1991

      You've got the theory dead-on. Temp compensation and internal voltage regulator are somewhat contradictory. Newer cars use body control computers to regulate alternator - some reduce charging rate under certain conditions to lower engine loads. Ford was one of the few manufacturers to take best advantage, by mounting the external voltage regulator less than 12" from the battery, all the way into the early '80s. GM and Chrysler used to mount theirs on the firewall. Still temp sensitive but not optimal.







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.