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Running a carburated B20E, Any Advice? 120-130

posted by  RepairmanJackal on  Sat Oct 28 04:09 CST 2006
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last visit: Tue Jun 10 09:52 CST 2014
[RELATED]

My cleanup is proceeding along at a nice clip and I can possibly do my B18/M40 to B20/M41 engine switch sooner than later.

Due to the complexities of converting to a D-jet I'm going to run the engine with dual HIF6s for a while. JohnMC tells me that I can leave the injectors in as long as I plug them (I was think stainless steel bolts in the hoses with small worm-gear clamps). Bolting up a combination manifold appears very straightforward.

While scrubbing, and degreasing the motor last night, I noticed the auxiliary air sensor (I think, I don't have a diagram handy) bolted to the front of the head, above the water pump. It usually has two hoses that run to the intake manifold. What it is, is not important at the moment, I've got good documentation on all the D-jet systems, but I'm not sure if I need to remove it while running carburated, or if I can just leave it in. I think that is the only other dedicated FI bit that is still there.

Also, what about distributors? The B20E has an electronic plug and a vacuum advance. I'm not sure how to hook up the electronic bits. Should I just switch in the electronic-ignition distributor from my B18 - will a B18 distributor work on a carburated B20?

Any advice/anecdotes/experiences are welcome.
--
1967 P220 (My every-other-daily driver...), 1971 P1800 (The Parts Car), 1972 145S (1993-1997), 1977 245 DL (1993-1999), 1983 245 (1998-2001), 1986 745 GLE (1997-2005), 1990 745 GL (2003-4), 1995 945 (2005-Present)....








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    Running a carburated B20E, Any Advice? 120-130

    posted by  walrus3 on  Sat Oct 28 11:09 CST 2006
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    last visit: Mon Dec 2 14:20 CST 2013
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    The auxiliary air valve needs to stay or be replaced by a flat plate.
    Might as well leave it there. I would remove the injectors and holders
    to keep them from getting fouled and put 7/8" soft plugs in the holes.
    You can keep the same distributor in there and just not use the FI trigger
    points. They work fine.
    --
    George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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      plugs 120-130

      posted by  RepairmanJackal on  Sat Oct 28 11:29 CST 2006
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      last visit: Tue Jun 10 09:52 CST 2014
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      Thanks Walrus. I hear about pluging injectors all the time. I've really no idea what it should be or look like. What sort of plug material should I be looking for? Rubber, Foam, Earplugs? And where can I get it in the correct size?

      Also, thanks for the additional info on the distributor. I've got electronic ignition on the B18 Distributor, and I'd prefer to keep it if possible. Unless there's some good reason I ought to stick with the B20 distributor? However, it would give me someplace to attach that vacuum hose from HIF6 rear carb...



      --
      1967 P220 (My every-other-daily driver...), 1971 P1800 (The Parts Car), 1972 145S (1993-1997), 1977 245 DL (1993-1999), 1983 245 (1998-2001), 1986 745 GLE (1997-2005), 1990 745 GL (2003-4), 1995 945 (2005-Present)....








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        plugs 120-130

        uid 4846's pic
        posted by  JohnMc on  Sat Oct 28 13:05 CST 2006
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        last visit: Thu Oct 23 07:42 CST 2014
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        There's nothing particularly great about the B20 distributor unless you are running D-Jet and need those trigger contacts in the base. That's a vacuum retard distributor. And that one in particular is unhooked for a reason. For whatever reason it was always really, really slow to un-retard from an idle, and as a result it could leave the car with about half the power it should have for a few seconds. If you use the B20 distributor, just don't bother hooking up the vac line on it.
        --
        '63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic 245 + turbo








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        plugs 120-130

        posted by  Phil S. on  Sat Oct 28 12:08 CST 2006
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        last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:18 CST 2014
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        The plugs are just freeze plugs, similar to the ones on the sides of the block -- just smaller.

        If for some reason you want to use the B20 distributor, do NOT hook up the vacuum. As I mentioned in my previous post, it's a vac retard, not vac advance. It works against you for economy and part-throttle performance. It was a smog thing to kkep the feds happy back in the day.








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        plugs 120-130

        posted by  walrus3 on  Sat Oct 28 12:06 CST 2006
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        last visit: Mon Dec 2 14:20 CST 2013
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        Go to your auto parts store and get some "flat type" 7/8" soft plugs.
        They will look like they were punched out of about 0.060" galvanized sheet
        and slightly dished but NO RIM. Unbolt the injector holder and remove the
        bakelite washer and O-ring, put the plug in the depression and smack it
        with a hammer so it goes flat. That expands it and seals the hole.
        Just like the ones in the water jacket but not as big. They are less than
        a dollar each.
        --
        George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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    Running a carburated B20E, Any Advice? 120-130

    uid 5098's pic
    posted by  Sil on  Sat Oct 28 04:53 CST 2006
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 07:24 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    will a B18 distributor work on a carburated B20?

    Yes, that's what I've got in my PV.
    Bob S.








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    Running a carburated B20E, Any Advice? 120-130

    posted by  Phil S. on  Sat Oct 28 04:52 CST 2006
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:18 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    IPD sells plugs for the injector holes, cheap.

    Leave the aux air valve and the sensor above it in place.

    Use the B18 distributor -- the D-jet dizzy is vacuum retard, not advance.







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