Hate to bother you guys again but;
Pulled the error codes.
Ignition :none.
Fuel injection: Signal missing from cold start valve- Idle valve closed- no signal from speedometer.

The speedometer and idle valve are working OK.
Any suggestions where to go from here? I switched the Radio relais with the other one on the tower.
I have spark (5 mm in open air). Fuelpressure more than 30 PSI tested recently. New plugs, wires, rotor, crankshaft sensor. Was planning on pulling the intake manifold to get to the sensors and coldstart injector. Good idea??

"Fuel injection: Signal missing from cold start valve- Idle valve closed- no signal from speedometer."

Suggest you give the actual code numbers.

I'm guessing you have Regina FI, and "Signal missing from cold start valve" is from a 3-2-1 code. If so, it's from a 1990 TSB for improving Cold Starts (Group 23, TSB# 135), which causes a permanent 3-2-1 code to be set and can be ignored.

The book lists two Idle Valve codes. Neither one is defined as "Idle valve closed", but one can cause a no-start (it says). Maybe your Idle Valve is not really "working OK" like you think?

Speedo code (3-1-1) may have been set (and retained) from a signal glitch when the car was running, and is probably not relevant to this problem.

OBD codes aside, I'd try OBD Mode 3 to see if the injectors, RS relay, and IAC valve can be "exercised".
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Two of those codes should be expected. The throttle is closed and with the car stationary, no speed (not speedo) signal.

If you have steady spark from the coil, then you already confirm functioning of the crankshaft pickup.

Fuel pressure should be 3 bars/43 PSI. Check this when experiencing the trouble. If it is closer to 30PSI, you may have low voltage to the main pump due to intermittant fuel pump relay or wiring to the pump. "Over 30 PSI" is not a close enough measurement being so far from what is needed for proper spray. If pressure is, in fact, over 40PSI, then you need to check for two things at the injectors...

12 volts on on side (will appear on both sides if any injectors are connected when you check) from the suppressor relay. And pulses toward ground whenever the engine is cranking or running on the other. A simple LED type injector test will help tell if both are there, but will not tell which is missing of it does not flash. This second side is the output of the injection ECU. After you determine if either of these are the culprit, you can trace the proper direction.

The codes were 3-2-1 2-3-3 and 3-1-1.
Socket 2 1-1-1
The idle valve worket good outside the car. Maybe I shouldn;t have put some synthetic oil on it.
In the test mode a while ago the injectors and relais were audible.
Need to do that again.
Thanks for input.

Maybe that TSB I mentioned didn't get applied to your car (intended to correct poor cold starting—due to excessively rich mixture).

A quick way to tell if the TSB was applied is that the 3-2-1 code cannot be reset. It's permanent.

If you CAN reset the 3-2-1, post back for how to do the TSB "fix".
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Bruce,

Are you saying that that 3-2-1 code cannot be reset even immediately? I mean after holding the button down for 5 seconds, and then again for 5 seconds, I would expect ALL codes to be cleared. Is that not true after this TSB, or do you mean that the 3-2-1 code always returns as soon as the car is started once?
--
Andy in St. Paul - '91 745 218K mi, '91 745 210K, '90 744 189K, all Rex-Regina - past 240s

Tested it tonight. The 3-2-1 testcode can NOT be reset. The other codes are gone but this one not.
So this means I have the upgrade?
No ignition codes. Cranksensor and TPS sensor testing OK.
I clearly hear and feel radio relais, idle valve, injectors fuelpump in testing mode.
Pulled the new sparkplug and it is wet and gassy smelling.
So maybe I don't have a spark in the cilinders?
I hooked up the spark plug cables #1 on the left of the distributor , then 3 on the right, then 4, then 2.
Looking from the front of the engine, and calling the cilinder closest to the firewall #1.
Even though there are no ignition codes, and plugs , distributor , rotor, crankshaft sensor are new, I begin to suspect ignition now for this absolute no run.
Any suggestions? Haven't checked fuel pressure again or pulled intake manifold to look at the sensors.

Your spark plug wiring is confusing. The firing order, 1,3,4,2. From radiator to rear, cyclinder #s, 1,2,3,4.

When you face the motor, on the distributor from passenger side, left to right.

Should look like this:

4 3 1 2

4
3
2
1
--
Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

This old picture gallery photo might help.

EDIT: Now that I see it -- Numbers on photo wrong!

As seen in the pic (rear view of cap)the cylinder numbers (left to right) should be:

2 - 1 - 3 - 4

Looking toward firewall from the radiator: 4-3-1-2 is the order I just verified on my 940. The rather odd internal electrode arrangement in the cap makes it confusing.

Looking at the picture, imagine the 4 internal electrodes equally spaced around a circular clockface (as they actually are). The positions will be:

#1 at 7:30
#3 at 4:30
#4 at 1:30
#2 at 10:30

Given counter-clockwise rotor movement (as in this rear view), the rotor will encounter the electrodes in 1-3-4-2 sequence, the B230 firing order.


--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

The FAQ is a little difficult to understand on this and I haven't had a chance to look under one of my hoods, but I do know that normally, the spark plug numbers are counted from the front (grill) end of the engine back. That is how the FAQ numbers them. And the FAQ says that for our application the order is:

Rear distributor: Left-to-right terminals are 4-3-1-2

Frankly I'm not sure how to interpret the "left to right" here, but hopefully someone who has immediate access to their car can let us know. If not, It will just take me a minute to check it after work.
--
Andy in St. Paul - '91 745 218K mi, '91 745 210K, '90 744 189K, all Rex-Regina - past 240s

Thanks!
Everything hooked up right. Still no running engine.
Will check spark again. Could leaking injectors be a cause?

I would pull a plug wire off, connect it directly to the coil, put in a plug, lay it close to metal and see if the sparks direct from the coil. If so. Reconnnect it to distributor and test again. That will confirm if you are getting spark out of the coil and then out of the distributor.
--
Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

That's how I read it, Andy.

TSB: "Fault code 3-2-1...will be permanently stored in the self-diagnostic memory. However, the CEL will not illuminate."
[possibly the code will clear with the reset procedure, but return as soon as the engine is started again???]

Green Book p70: "If [TSB is applied] the code will be set even if no fault is present."
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Tested the plug in the dark. I seem to have a veryy weak spark at the plug. Only pull a few mm spark from a screwdriver or at the plug. I have the rex coilpack. How to test?

So far (156K miles) my REX ignition has been OK, but I have seen a few posts about the coil pack.

It is mounted to the heat sink by 2 TORX-head screws. The advice as I recall it is to remove the heatsink, clean off the mounting surfaces on both parts, then remount the coil using fresh "Heat Sink Grease" (Radio Shack 276-1392).

IMO, it would be worth trying—and I may just do it preemptively on my 940.

Removing and reseating the connectors can't hurt either.

--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

I ordered a used computer of ebay (BENDIX) and am looking for another coilpack to try.
These packs seem not as easy to get.
Would there be any alternatives for it??
Thanks in advance,

Did you take your coil apart and have a look inside yet?
--
Andy in St. Paul - '91 745 218K mi, '91 745 210K, '90 744 189K, all Rex-Regina - past 240s

So I took the Rex square coil apart (two Torq screws) and used sandpaper on the contacts and surface(?) of coil and module. After a few farts it runs great now!
I just find it hard to believe that this actually made a difference, since the contacs looked great. , or that it would have started anyway. It was 27 degree F outside and maybe cold sart works different that low? The new plugs and cables make a difference for sure. I got a spare ebayed computer on the way.
Thanks for the tip. And keep them coming please. I will post back!

" So I took the Rex square coil apart (two Torq screws) and used sandpaper on the contacts and surface(?) of coil and module."

Did you coat the mating surface between coil and module (heatsink) like I pointed out earlier in this thread (Thursday)? I believe it's important in transferring heat away from the coil.
See repeat below:


==>"The advice as I recall it is to remove the heatsink, clean off the mounting surfaces on both parts, then remount the coil using fresh "Heat Sink Grease" (Radio Shack 276-1392)."<==

--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Repost:
I will get the heatsink (paste?). Do I need contact paste too?
The car idles now in P or neutral ~1000 rpm ; in gear ~600/700 rpm.
Only a slight oscillation in neutral in rpm visible ~950-1050rpm.
Drove the car with warm engine down the hill to traffic light, when I got back on the gas the car shut down , but did restart after few tries while giving it som gas with the pedal. The car drove good for the 7 mile trip to mountain bike trail.
I parked up steep hill, when I came back car started good.My fear was engine shutting down on short steep descent (losing power steering and brakes) and this is what happened. Fortunately the brakes held better than I expected without booster. The car started after few tries and with a little input from the gas pedal.
I,m to afraid to drive to work this way since I have to make U turn on highway, and shutting down can kill me.
OK up to radio shack now...

ps: Radioshack was closed, but I did get a bottle of Seafoam. Poured it in and let it sit idling for 45 minutes to mix it in with the gas. The car did not shut down and seems to have a less fluctuating idle.
I might risc it and drive it to work tomorrow. Keep you all posted. Thanks much for all input!!

If you say you have fuel and spark. Then next I would check compression/timing belt.
--
Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

I will get the heatsink (paste?). Do I need contact paste too?
The car idles now in P or neutral ~1000 rpm ; in gear ~600/700 rpm.
Only a slight oscillation in neutral in rpm visible ~950-1050rpm.
Drove the car with warm engine down the hill to traffic light, when I got back on the gas the car shut down , but did restart after few tries while giving it som gas with the pedal. The car drove good for the 7 mile trip to mountain bike trail.
I parked up steep hill, when I came back car started good.My fear was engine shutting down on short steep descent (losing power steering and brakes) and this is what happened. Fortunately the brakes held better than I expected without booster. The car started after few tries and with a little input from the gas pedal.
I,m to afraid to drive to work this way since I have to make U turn on highway, and shutting down can kill me.
OK up to radio shack now...

The car has been acting up like this of and on. Timing belt and compression seem OK since the car (at about 190K) runs great when it runs. I will pull the new plugs again sunday to see if they are fouled.

Thanks for input, I appreciate you all.

Poured a can of seafoam in the tank, and than found out that you can/need to put it in your vacuum line from brake booster too. Oops, what a smoke. There are several clips on YouTube of people seafoaming if you want to see what it looks like.
Seemed to have made a big difference. I might take it to work again.
Thanks for reading.