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Step one... Remove Engine...
Today I finished adding the needed reinforcing beams to hoist an engine in my one-car garage. After an aborted attempt to use a pully setup, I attached my lift cable to a come-along and tossed it over the top of the composite beam, securing it to chains that I bolted to strong-points on the motor (AC bracket, starter bolt, bellhousing, intake manifold lower brace bolt). The engine came up easily. Since the 1800 is presently immobile (no wheels), I rested the motor on some lumber that I placed across nose of the P1800. This is my first solo experience removing an engine, so I feel a pretty strong sense of accomplishment.
The motor itself is destin for the Amazon and a limited period of time as an HIF6-carburated engine (temporary until I switch over to a D-Jet). After I clean the B20 thoroughly, seal any oil leaks and repaint it, I'm going to pull the Amazon's B18/M40 and install the B20E/M41. Ideally, I should do some clean up and rust-proofing of the amazon's engine compartment while it's empty.
a couple questions.
1) the B20E has been leaking oil from the valve cover for a rather long time (long before I bought it). Shortly after my purchase, I added a rubber neoprene seal and my cast IPD valve cover which stopped the leak and most of the oil loss. However, the engine is still amazingly gunky. It will be quite a task to clean up. Since the switch will not be immediate, should I do any particular service while I have the motor out?
I think the compression is good, so no reason to pull the head (120,000 total miles). I'm going to replace the oil pan gasket for sure, but should I do anything else? I have an updated timing cover and rear main seal available, but I'm not sure what the original B20 seals are like (felt or neoprene)...
2) When I extract the amazon's motor, I'm thinking that the safest bet would be to drain and pull the radiator, remove the cross-beam, and try to pull the motor and tranny up and forward as a single unit. Since my "beam and cable" motor extraction setup is "stationary" I figure the best I can do is maneuver the car backwards and foward as I raise/lower the motor and tranny.
Any advice on how to improve this whole setup economically is appredicated.
Also. I do not have or really want to buy an engine stand. Has any built any sort of engine "cart" with lumber? If so, can someone share a photo?
--
1967 P220 (My every-other-daily driver...), 1971 P1800 (The Parts Car), 1972 145S (1993-1997), 1977 245 DL (1993-1999), 1983 245 (1998-2001), 1986 745 GLE (1997-2005), 1990 740 GL (2003-4), 1995 945 (2005-Present)....
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Nathan,
I have a cart that held my B-20. The engine is now in my car, so you're welcome to it, casters & all. You have my email & my number is in the book.
--
Joe in St Louis
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That would be excellent Joe. I also sent you an e-mail regarding that part you were needing. Perhaps we can do a trade/borrow to meet both of our short term needs.
--
1967 P220 (My every-other-daily driver...), 1971 P1800 (The Parts Car), 1972 145S (1993-1997), 1977 245 DL (1993-1999), 1983 245 (1998-2001), 1986 745 GLE (1997-2005), 1990 745 GL (2003-4), 1995 945 (2005-Present)....
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#1 Gunky but not rusted. Good News
Had a bad experience with Gunk brand engine cleaner.
It may be caustic,because it somehow over dried the hood release,
and I had to replace it.Besides the hose to rinse is probably out
of the question in the garage. A plastic putty knife,solvents,and a final wipe
with Kerosene and, Get a $30 respirator,is my advice here. Otherwise:
I have made engine 'cradles' out of 2x4 and 3/4 ply bottoms with
cheepo casters.14" wide will give an 11" ID which will pick up the rim
of the oil pan without denting it.2x4 will require a relief hole in the ply,
so the plug/pan is not bearing weight. The tailshaft will require @ 2x3
on edge at the back of the box. Use screws.Now you are a free man,wheel it about,
outside to a sheet of refrigerator cardboard to catch the mess and blast away.
#2 Sounds good,For insertion,you should have a tilt mechanism,store bought or rented
or I have seen chains rigged in an arc so the slider loop can be moved back and forth.
Be prepared to play with it to find the balance.Blocking and helper good ideas here.
#3 Yes,neoprene front and rear seals.Stock is felt.
Ken
--
White 86-245 DL, M 46, IPD bars & Wagon Overloads,Commando Bumpers,SS Belly Pan & Air Pickup,Straight-Shot EMT Chassis & Tower Braces,Scorpius Alloys,2 Belt No AC Conversion,Black POR-15 No Glare Front End
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Jack,
I don't have a pressure washer, but next time..
I Forgot to mention this;
Plastic Bag or remove alternator.
Remove belt.
All the best,Ken
--
White 86-245 DL, M 46, IPD bars & Wagon Overloads,Commando Bumpers,SS Belly Pan & Air Pickup,Straight-Shot EMT Chassis & Tower Braces,Scorpius Alloys,2 Belt No AC Conversion,Black POR-15 No Glare Front End
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That's great info on the cart. I may just take Joe up on his offer, but I do build a lot of wood projects (furniture, cabinets, built-ins, etc) when I'm not fiddling with my Volvos.
I removed pretty much everything that could be damaged before I hoisted the motor. This evening I scrubbed the bejesus out of the distributor side of the engine, and after a good final tratment with purple degreaser, drying and masking off some stuff, I hit the newly exposed rusty bits with a good coat of Ford Red engine paint. Probabaly won't last, but it looks a lot better than before.
--
1967 P220 (My every-other-daily driver...), 1971 P1800 (The Parts Car), 1972 145S (1993-1997), 1977 245 DL (1993-1999), 1983 245 (1998-2001), 1986 745 GLE (1997-2005), 1990 740 GL (2003-4), 1995 945 (2005-Present)....
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The way I swapped out motors was just the way you are planning to. Except I had the nose piece out and only had to lift it a couple of feet.
If you can clean your motor with a pressure washer that gunk is as good as gone.
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It is MUCH easier to pull and install an engine if the car is jacked up
pretty high, so rolling the car is somewhat of a disadvantage. This is
especially true if the tranny is on it at the time. But you can get the
car in the right place, block the rear wheels and then jack it up and put
it on stands. 8" higher than normal is not too much.
Just about all the B20s, with possible exception of 74 and 75 models had
felt main seals. But if you have the updated cover and housing, no problem.
If you don't I can probably help you.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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posted by
someone claiming to be src
on
Fri Oct 27 10:38 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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If you had to, and had enough flat surface around, you could use a 4-point dolly under each wheel. That would get you a few inches up at least and retain mobility in any direction.
Good luck -Sean
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I raised the car up quite substantially on four jackstands, before winching the engine out. I lower the car back down as I gradually raised the motor. This kept the motor from hitting anything. Fortuantely, I had already removed the starter, manifolds, and alternator.
Walrus, My old B18 has IPD upgraded front and rear seals. However, in the interest of simplicity, I had been gradually purchasing the various parts to rebuild my *other* B18, including upgraded seals. I got a rear seal housing on eBay but the seal fit is not as snug as I'd like. I have a couple of spares rear housings and may wish to take you up on the sale of a new updated housing. If you recall, we already transacted for an improved front cover. On that note, I need some advice on how deep to install the new seal - flush, inset, etc? I was a bit concerned about oil return drain hole...
--
1967 P220 (My every-other-daily driver...), 1971 P1800 (The Parts Car), 1972 145S (1993-1997), 1977 245 DL (1993-1999), 1983 245 (1998-2001), 1986 745 GLE (1997-2005), 1990 740 GL (2003-4), 1995 945 (2005-Present)....
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