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My 740 GL now is presenting with poor cold start (after replacing cables , sensor, relais, plugs, fuel filter battery, alternator).
Regina Fuel injection. Strange enough (I noticed this many times) the car tends to start when letting go of the key, while still cranking). As if there is not enough current available , which is not the case with new battery. The old plugs (5 months) looked terriblebut this might be my cleaning effort spraying carb cleaner in throttle body. Can it be the ECT input to the ECU? With warm weather the car starts fine , but has a hot shut down if soaking or starving occaisionally. I love the car, but this is driving me crazy.
Any suggestions welcome.
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My 1992 740/regina(213,000miles)fuel pressure regulator diaphram had a small leak. New pressure regulator solved the problem and it now again starts with 2 seconds of cranking. I discovered the leak by pulling off the vacuum line and seeing and smelling gas.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Jean13
on
Wed Oct 25 07:30 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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My '89 with bosh fuel injection had similar symptoms it wound up being the in tank fuel pump that had quit working. I guess it only showed up as cold start problems because there's a bigger fuel demand cold and I try to keep my fuel tank fairly cose to full most af the time.
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Along with the Cold Start TSB decribed in Lucid's old post, it's possible you've got leaking fuel injectors causing flooding; or a vacuum causing an overly rich condition.
If it's flooding, it should start more quickly when you open the throttle.
My own 90 is not the fastest thing in the world to fire up. It always works, but takes twice as long to crank as the 240s ever do. I don't know if it's building up fuel pressure in the system or if that's just the LH2.4 / Regina behavior.
In any case, my car's going to receive some Techron to see if it improves starting performance. Your car probably should as well. The stuff does work.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Today I'm driving: 1990 745GL, M47, 273K, Hydras, Urethane bushings, Teal & Tan ::: My wife's got my 92 down in VA Beach!
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For what it's worth, my 1990 740 with Regina also has taken a long crank ever since I got it. Both my 1991 Regina's fire up immediately. Maybe it's a 1990 thing.
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Andy in St. Paul - '91 745 218K mi, '91 745 210K, '90 744 189K, all Rex-Regina - past 240s
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Last Spring, Lucid was kind enough to make this post:
TSB for 1990 Rex-Regina cold start injector
Check and see if it has been applied to your GL.
Hey Bruce. I only got as far as determining that this wiring change had NOT been done to my '90. Do you know which color wire is rerouted to the starter solenoid and if there is more than one connection on the solenoid (haven't looked), which one it goes to? With another Minnesota Winter rapidly approaching, I need to get on this.
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Andy in St. Paul - '91 745 218K mi, '91 745 210K, '90 744 189K, all Rex-Regina - past 240s
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Hi Andy,
The TSB doesn't exactly say what color wire replaces the blue/green (from ECU) at the CSI, only that the new wire "harness" (PN 3544343-1) has a connector on each end (one end must fit into the CSI, where the B/G wire is removed and taped back).
But then it says if the "harness" isn't available, to make one up per Instructions — which list PN's for each connector* and specifies GREEN for wire color.
Try to look at your solenoid. If it has 2 wires (push-on female terminals), that would suggest the TSB has been applied. If only 1 wire, check for an unused male push-on terminal. I think it would be opposite the ignition terminal and narrower, i.e., 3/16" vs the 1/4" ignition terminal.
949679-5 (CSI end I think)
949404-8 (Solenoid end?)
947848-8 (Insulator for solenoid end)
--
Bruce Young '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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hello seller
i was going through the internet searching and i came accross your ads that was posted for sale and i will like to purchase it over from you. if it is still available, and the payment to you will be inform of cheque so and i will like to inform you that, you dont have aproblem with the shipping cos i have a reputable shipping company that will took care of that so i will like to have the last offer price that you want to sell it, the condition of the ads and the pics of it.
so i will be lookibg forward to have your reply.
best regards
larex
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Oh god, delete this user.
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84 245 tan, '86 745 GLE, '89 16v, '90 744 GL (RIP '84 245 red)
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Yep. When they offer a "cheque" the red flags go up.
Suggest cash by registered mail.......?
Suggest you look at his other posts - they are verbatim the same, misspellings
and all. I've e-mailed Jarrod.
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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Most of the world spells it "cheque", including Canada. The fact that the fool posted it to a "seller" on a tech board is the first clue.
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Have you read-out the fault codes? It may indicate a temp sensor out of range.
Also, if you haven't done it yet, I'd take the coil pack apart and clean all the mating surfaces, internal connections, etc.
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Chris - 1990 740, 1973 1800ES (Non-running), 1993 Dodge Dakota (Still has a little paint left on it)
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I can not locate a cold start injector on the intake sprocket??? I have a non Bosch ECU too.
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Replacing the coolant sensor might be a sensible place to start. If it happens all the time under these conditions, you could simply check its resistance one morning before trying to start it and see if it is in specs or not.
Just because the battery is new and sufficient current is getting to the starter, do not make the assumption that everything else in the car is also. You have different ground paths involved, and each system has its own wiring.
If the temp sensor proves not your answer, I'd put ignition switch next on the list because you say releasing the key gets it to fire. Some other, non-Volvo cars have been known for that symptom, and ignition switch was the failure there. But temp/weather was not a factor on those.
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