No brake lights including 3rd light. Fuse is OK. To test the switch under the brake pedal, is it safe to get a wire and attach across the connections with the brake pedal down? If the lights light, then I assume it's the switch.
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'86 244 160k, 88 245 170k, 90 245 153k, 90 745 waiting for me to fix

Here's a related thread from last week: brake light switch - how do I get to it?
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

If you don't pay your exorcist, you get repossessed.

Thanks. A good suggestion there was to remove the seat. Then I had a thought, how about having the skinny pliable 19-yr-old son (who uses the car anyways!) lie on HIS back instead of his old man. Did it, replaced the switch, works fine, and I think he feels good about accomplishing something - not real common.
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'86 244 160k, 88 245 185k, 90 245 153k, 90 745 waiting for me to fix

Why not just test for continuity across the switch (or battery voltage at the neg terminal) when it's closed?

A common failure point for all the brake lights to fail is the bulb failure sensor.

Good luck!
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1990 245 DL 130k M47, E-codes
1991 745 GL 280k (Girlfriend-mobile)
Buckeye Volvo Club

That would be one of the first steps a professional would do. Next, or before, check that power is actually getting to the stoplight switch with a testlight or voltmeter.

If you do not find the problem with these tests, suspect a bad solder connection inside the bulb-out sensor. That is where the brakelight switch wire goes, and splits to the three separate circuits.

Yah, jdouglas is right, that's what I would do.

So if the lights still don't come on, what next?

Bulb failure warning system relay (aka bfws relay). All three lights run through it. If ppossible, swap in another relay from a same-year-or-younger car.

The BFWS relay can be re-soldered, too.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Yep, that's how I'd do it.