Well, I have now gotten my 1983 240 DL to start, but only two times. I saw a post that mentioned that if you have your grounds for the ignition harness and engine harness on the same bolt on the intake manifold it can cause interference. Well, I guess that was probably part of my problem, because I separated the engine and ignition harness ground leads and tried to start my car, but it would only turn over. (I should note here that when I took the bolts off the intake manifold to separate the grounds, I found that I had really good fuel pressure in the fuel rail, because it sprayed and leaked out while I had the fuel rail loose.) I messed with the three plug connector to the distributor(I've got the Chrysler white cap distributor) and it didn't really seem to do anything. I then decided to use a wire to jump between B and C on the plug, because I know that will produce spark at the distributor cap and at the spark plugs. I jumped B and C and I could see the spark at the spark plug and hear it in the distributor cap. I then messed with the three plug wire more(just kinda wiggled it) and then noticed that I could hear sparking in the distributor cap and the idle valve buzzed for a second or two, but wouldn't stay buzzing. I wiggled the wire plug more and could hear sparking and the idle valve buzzing intermittently. I then reconnected the round plugs and tried to start the car. The car turned over and then started coughing like it was getting intermittent spark. I suspected the fact that if the round plug was wiggled it would intermittently make spark. So I wiggled it more, heard spark in the distributor cap, reconnected the round plug and tried starting again. This time it did start and I let it run for a few minutes. I then tried revving the engine, but when I put pressure on the gas peddle the engine instantly died. I wiggled the round plug more, didn’t hear any sparking in the distributor cap and tried to start again. It would turn over, but wouldn’t start and wouldn’t cough – I suspect due to not getting any spark. I repeated the above a few more times and then it finally started. But the second I touched the gas peddle it died again. I haven’t been able to get it to restart since, but then again I only had a few more minutes to work on it before I had to leave for class. Anyhow, is there anyone who would agree that the ignition harness is bad? I got it used, but itz a newer one and I can take it back for an exchange. My last ignition harness the one that car with the car originally would do the same thing of, if you wiggled it, you could hear sparking in the distributor cap. But come to think of it, it never made the idle valve buzz. So if anyone has any tips, pointers, basics, whatever, please post or E-mail me! Thanks. PFHarper@cox.net

I would not think your new harness is bad, but it could be the sleeves that promote better contact at the computer plug and distributor connector may be missing. This was a change in mid-year 83 covered by a service bulletin. I expect if you've come this far you already are aware of it.

None of that really proves the hall-effect wiring inside the distributor is above reproach, though your wiggling seems to isolate the trouble to those things touched by the harness between computer and distributor. With the 83, the ECU will sense those sparks you created artificially with the jumper B-C and turn on the idle circuit and fuel pumps both, momentarily, but you need a sustained repeated, distributor-timed spark to keep the gas flowing.

I've never owned a white-cap, but read many accounts of success when the distributor was exchanged for a Bosch. Many Bosch were built with the round plug too, so the swap is plug and play. Post back if unfamiliar with the old SB on sleeves.

Thanks for the info and tips!
I believe that the black slieves are still intact at the plugs. If you could elaborate a bit more on the "old SB sleeves" that would also help. I think I know what you're talking about, but I just want to make sure.
But I'm not familiar with the service bulletin about it. If you could give me a link to it or place to find it that would be much appreciated.
I am thinking and hoping that the hall-effect sensor indide the distributor is good. I say this cause I put a new one in a few months back thinking it would solve my problem. But it has produced spark, compared to the old one not producing spark.
Switch out the white cap for a Bosch eh? Hmm, that just might do the trick. You wouldn't happen to know where I could get one readily would you?
Thanks for the help!

Had another question for anyone. Does anybody know what "contact sleeves" look like that connect the ignition control computer to the ignition harness(that big eight plug connector)? If you do, please send me a picture of them, cause I'm not sure what they look like and whether or not I need them. Thanks. PFHarper@cox.net

Hi,

I believe this is what sorenson-jr is talking about:

p. 60

p. 61

Fixed ignition harness intermittents back in 83, I believe.

Seems to me the kind of thing a careful application of a pick and needle nosed pliers would accomplish, but I know my old 83 and 84 B23F cars came with them in place. Good luck,


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Don't find fault, find a remedy. (Henry Ford)

Hmm, okay I'll take a look at that and see if that doesn't take care of the problem. Thanks for the tip.