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Not sure what this noise is, goes with wheel rotation.
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Mine were doing this on the rear. Happened to be the caliper dragging. You might try to remove the caliper and hang it. Then rotate the wheel with your hand to see if it goes away.
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Good thought, but quite sure that's not it.
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SOmething that you probably would have seen but here goes. How about the plastic Wheel well...is that hanging down?
I don't know if I'd call that a Grind but it could sound bad and it is rotation related.
It happened to a friends car when he hit a way-deep puddle.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me
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No, good thought. I'm thinking of re-checking for play in the bearings. Can bearings be bad but not have play? I thought if bad they would have to be loose.
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If they are dry ( no grease) they will rust and pit . They do not have to be lose to be bad. Check the bearings and the surface of the Races.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me
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By any chance are you using aftermarket wheel covers?
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posted by
someone claiming to be Kraynek, long lost
on
Sun Aug 6 16:29 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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I am, and I'm experiencing intermittant squealing. why?
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Just curious-
Do you have shims and syl-glide or similar anti-squeal lube on the back of your front pads?
Personally, I doubt it is the wheel covers if you have squealing.....
--
90 244DL 271k - All original drivetrain :)
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Big pie-plate things behind the wheel spindles.
If rusted badly enough they will get bent and end up between the brake pads and the rotors. DAMHIK. When this happens you will likely need pads and rotors unless you catch it very quickly. If it happened on one wheel check all the others for rotten dust shields before they do the same.
--
DAMHIK: Don't Ask Me How I Know - - - Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, e-codes, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 500 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).
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Our 88 has completely rotten dust shields-- one front is gone in its whole lower hemisphere.
I've been transplanting them off our relatively rust-free 89 parts car as I go through the car. I believe they are available new, both from FCP and the dealer.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 92 244-M47-207K ::: 90 745GL-M47-268K ::: 88 245DL-AW70-230K ::: 88 244 SOLD! 87 244 SOLD! Still looking for a bright red or black 244 with sunroof...
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When I did the brakes a year ago, these shields were totalled wasted and rusted out, I just tore them out.
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http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1003776
This was from an early POST. I kept it in case I ever needed it
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me
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Thanks Tony,
I just did a quick price check at http://www.myswedishparts.com and got the folowing:
1272469 >>>>>>>MSRP $32.37 Price $27.84 (15%)
[would be $25.90 @ Beechmont w/free shipping, $25 at FCP + shipping]
Front suspension - Brake components - Splash shield
Splash shield 1989 - 1993 ??????????........ I thought all 240's were the same
retaining ring (qty 2) 1272102 [not found]
lock screw (qty 6) 948536 [not found]
And no hits at all on the ABS part numbers (i.e.3530540, etc.)
I also looked for 940 shields by keyword search. If I got the right parts (no numbers shown) they are about 1/2 the 240 cost -- MSRP $16.60, Price $ 14.28 for fronts, about 1/2 cheaper for rears.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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posted by
someone claiming to be sorenson-jr
on
Fri Aug 4 03:09 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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Still grateful for that link.
When the p/n doesn't hit it might be lacking the check digit. For instance, the ABS number you provided: 35305408 PROTECTING PLATE, $81.81 $0.00 $70.36 comes back when given the "8". If this p/n is of interest to you, plug it in yourself because there's a note on its superseding number being expired or something.
There's a hint on deciphering check digits in 7/9 FAQs under parts sources.
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And thank you for that FAQ check digit tip.
But how did you get 8 for a check digit on 3530540?
I come up with a check-sum of 29, making a check digit of "1".
Here's my math: 3+10+3+0+5+8+0=29
Where did I go wrong?
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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posted by
someone claiming to be sorenson-jr
on
Fri Aug 4 10:27 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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Most of the stuff in that FAQ is a good start but hardly a trusted reference. Some dyslexia in the seed. Substitute 2121212 for 1212121 in the seed and give it a try on some known p/n; basically the guy got it backward but I probably would have too. Last multiplier in a base number should be 2.
6+5+6+0+10+4+0=22 and remember to add 10 like 1+0.
Still grateful for that link!
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Thanks again. Glad to know it wasn't my math.
I was with you all the way up to: "and remember to add 10 like 1+0.". Maybe I stayed up too late at the DENSA meeting last night, but I don't see how/where/why to apply that "1+0" -- when taking 22 from 30 gives the 8 that I need.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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... and the same for any 2-digit sum in the "seed", right?
I also found it pretty quick to cycle 0 thru 10 in the look-up site search.
For me, that's probably quicker than calculating.
But good to know the correct way, just the same.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Part of the reason I didn't replace them (see previous post - I tore them out). Also, didn't know how necessary they were - I guess it keeps slush etc. off the rotors, so yes, I would appreciate a source. Thanks.
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