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I think you'll find you can use any 80s or 90s 240 fuel sender.
Just look for one that's not rusted out.
As for tools, it's not fun but it is possible doing it with punches, drifts, large screwdrivers, etc. The bung nut tool looks like a nice solution. I appreciate what you're after with a wooden tool, but honestly I don't think it'll be strong enough. You have to BEAT THE CRAP out of that thing to get it to move. They're generally rusted in there pretty severely. A day or two of soaking with PB blaster will surely not hurt.
I would look at making a tool from brass or aluminum bar- that MAY be strong enough to break the nut loose. I really don't think you'll have any trouble with sparks there, honestly. I am sure I've made some. You're really outside the tank, away from the vapors. You can also soak the area in a less flammable oil or solvent prior to actually opening the tank, once you get it to move- motor oil comes to mind as a suitable barrier fluid that wouldn't create havoc if a bit drops into the tank.
Keep everything clean, and wipe the rust chips out of the bung nut groove before actually pulling the sender top plate away from the tank. Grit in the fuel tank is not helpful to your pumps.
New nuts and new o-rings are available from FCP Groton or other parts dealers.
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