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OK. We cleaned out the head and valve cover, flattened the mating surfaces, put the valve cover back on, put on a liberal amount of JBWeld. It still leaks. I've gotten to the end of my patience and psychic energy on this one. I've placed an order for a Honda FIT (lots of room and almost 40 mpg) and I need to sell the 960.
If I trade this vehicle, I assume that the trade will be at parts car prices. Can anyone give me some guidance on selling a car like this other than posting on the board here?
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just out of curiousity, have u sought out George Dill, of the volvo club's Texas chapter? this guy's a walkin encyclopedia of volvo knowledge, just might be worth givin him a shout, 'll give you his email/and digits, if you're interested... sure helped me plenty, sight unseen,a nd was always on the mark!
Just an afterthought, again good luck, and let me know.
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I would definately try what Spook suggests. I know a few airplane mechanics and it's possible that the cover could be repaired. After all, the Volvo is a much nicer car than any new Honda.
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k, guys, i gotta ask... i just got my '93 960 wagon, and, until i see how this is put together, i guess i won't understand. i think the actual valve cover on this engine is made of phenolic plastic, ya know, that extremely tough teflon-carbon impregnated plastic, yada, yada. am i to understand that it can't be replaced, or repaired, which, you obviously are tryin to do(i know money's tight, and, it can't be cheap), but, you all are talkin about aluminum welding, etc,and i'm tryin to make sense of it. let me throw this out there, there is a product sold at like motor parts stores, and bearings(internal and external industrial style), point bein, you're not gonna find it @ autozone, or the like, and for the life of me, i can't remember the manufacturer, however, i can tell you, this stuff definitely does the trick! i'll do my damndest to find out the actual name, and where you can find it, BUT, it will hold up to just about everything you'd need to do(fill the gap, grind on it, stands up to case pressures etc., you get the picture.i'm still tryin to figure out how the cover is utilized, as in, is there another one that attaches directly to the cylinder head, underneath the plastic cover, obviously made from aluminum, that sits right on top of the head, itself?and, if so, is it cracked in such a way that it spews oil, especially after it gets to normal operatin temp?i will find the name of this stuff, but i wish you would explain how, and why this cover is leaking, and i hope this is not something i have to look out for, anytime soon, as this car is goin to my daughter to replace the one we lost in katrina, so, i'm tryin to learn, as well as tryin to help anyone i can! i'll ask you, also, do you have a manual for the 960, from '93- 90 whatever?anyway, i'd sure like to see you get this repaired, and back on the road asap!you may try NAPA, or Genuine Parts, i don't know where you are, but sometimes, they shock the hell out of me with what they do have, what they stock, and what they may be willin to get for you.
sorry for bein so longwinded, but, i'm tryin to get back in the game, and get this car as solid as i can,as quickly as possible, so she can get her butt back in school. good luck, and let me know if you find a fix for this, but i'm gonna try and find this product(kind of like JBWeld, only a hell of a lot better, i know because i was in the hydraulics/pneumatics game, and have used it, and much to my surprise, it worked!anyway, et me know, louis
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posted by
someone claiming to be rod
on
Sat May 27 14:11 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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This might be worth a try.
http://www.alumaloy.com/
You can get ebay, and the net by the stick. I never have used it.
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Hello,
I'm sufffering som disallusionment with my V90. There is a guy who offered via email to buy it from me. He has an engine, and wants to wrap a good car around it. Unfortunately, for him, I'm not selling yet (plus my engine runs really well). Email me offlist, and I'll forward his message to you.
Judging by your username, you're in Florida, right? He said he comes down to this state very often.
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I know that you have been thru a demoralizing grind on this. But, since you are at the point of giving up on this, you don't have much to lose.
In view of this, you might try just getting another head top section from the junkyard just like the cracked piece you have. I know all about the Volvo party line on the head top and bottom sections being a matched set, etc. But consider the following:
1. Cam bearing clearances are reasonably large upwards of 0.010" on the diameter.
2. You can get a rough idea of whether it will work at all just by putting the "new" top head section on without any cams and look/feel for any discontinuity at the cam seal bores since these are "line bored" with the cam bearing bores. You can feel a discontnuity of 0.001" fairly readily. Less than 0.001 and the ability to feel a discontnuity rapidly vanishes. Whereas a step of 0.005 would feel pretty big and 0.010 would feel "huge". Given this, you could put on a non-cracked top section and feel in the front and back cam seal bores to tell if this is possibly workable.
2a. If this rough eval seems possible/plausible, then proceed to set 3.
3. You can check fit before you put everything together. Just take out all the hydraulic lifters. Lube the cam bearing journals; lay the cams in the bottom head section. Put the "new" top head section on (make sure that it's nicely cleaned up; I use Jasco paint stripper to take off the chemical gasket), and use the cam gears on the front of the cams to turn the cams and see if it seems tight. (You really need the tools to press that top head section down evenly). First I'd check you it feels as I tighted the press tools to make the gap with the top of the bottom head section approach 'zero'. Here, I'd be feeling if it starts to tighten up on the cam bearings; there WILL be some resistance to turning, these things don't spin like a skateboard wheel, but if it starts to get tight, it will be almost un-turnable by hand on those cam gears. If it passes this test, you're almost home.
4. Put some of the screws in thru the top section working from the center out, and lightly snug them (NOT 15 ft-lbs, just snug). Check the feel on the cams along the way to see if anything is changing. If you can get the screws in that center part in and lightly snugged without the cams binding, then I'd say you're in.
To do this LAST CHANCE test, you ony need the expense of getting a non-cracked top head section from the junkyard, and I would venture to guess that it could be had fairly cheaply since there are probably a lot of them out there.
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Is the leaking valve cover the only issue? If so, finding a used one or even paying Volvo prices for a new one will certainly improve the value of your vehicle when you sell it.
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I'm only guessing but I suspect he's talking about the cam carrier, not the top cover.
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The top cover has the upper half of the cam bearing cap built in. Not a simple parts swap.
JB Weld should work to stop an oil leak if done right. I've seen it used enough times, particularly on oil drain lines on redblocks where heat is an issue as well.
Or, if it seeps a little...just keep an eye on the oil level.
--
forums.turbobricks.com
Parting out '84 DL auto, many cheap parts available
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The first caot of JBWeld cracked in about three months, right over where the crack in the valve cover is. I don't know if it if the vibration, or what.
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Dear Flseminarian,
Good p.m. and may this find you well.I suspect the cover cracked, because it was improperly (unevenly) tightened, long before you bought the car. The stress ventually cracked the aluminum.
The only way to close the crack, is to weld it. An FAA-certified (FAA = Federal Aviation Administration) welder, i.e., one qualifiedto work on airplanes, should be able to to this welding. Aircraft welders are expert in aluminum, a metal commonly found in airplanes. They are also familiar with thin plates, as those, too, are common in airplanes.
Do an on-line search for firms in your area:
(a) that do welding (and say in the ad/on their website) that they have an FAA-certified welder. Do not put this work into the hands of any person, who does not have this qualification.
(b) call airplane maintenance firms. Someone will be able to refer you to a qualified person, even if the maintenance firm itself doesn't handle welding.
If the FAA-certified welder tells you that the job can't be done, that's final. No one is likely to know more about welding aluminum.
Hope this helps: Good Luck!!
Yours faithfully,
spook
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Well at this point you may want to try to have some one heliarch the damn thing as a last resort-aluminum weilding is not something I'm that familar with-they may be able to do it with the peice still on the car-shame to have to give up on an otherwise working engine.
Poolman
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