You may know that I bought JohnMC's old P1800 for parts back around christmas. I've had a little fun driving it around, but all in all, I all I prefer the look of my Amazon. (No bondo, less rusty and its structural integrity is not compromised) I had it loaned out, but finally got it back this weekend.

I plan to eventually transplant all the goodies from the 1800 into the Amazon.
I've already asked about the rear end. The B20E/D-jet installation is mainly covered at VClassics as well as installing the M41 0D. Some information on this sort of conversion was published in a back issue of Rolling (that I have)

Even with all these sources, I've still got questions that are not covered.

(1) My M41 has the selenoid on the left (driver's side). Which OD is that? J?
It is not actuating 100% of the time. Will a new selenoid fix it, or is a rebuild a better alternative. Where do I get a kit for that?

(2) The output flange from the M41 is matched to the rather large diameter P1800 driveshaft. My Amazon uses the small diameter shaft. If I have my spare small-diameter foreshaft shortened, will it still bolt to the OD? Alternatively, if I upgrade to the larger diameter shaft (I already have a short foreshaft) Will the large diameter shaft bolt up to my P220 stock differential?

(3) Are the rear driveshafts on the P1800 a different length than the rear shafts on Amazons? i.e. will I be able to use the rear section from the P1800 with my large diameter foreshaft?

(4) Rear differentials... This has been covered in other forums. I'm still looking for a solution for the poor gear ratio in my wagon. I'm presently considering paying a machine shop to weld the 67's fittings to the P1800's rear axle so that it will bolt up to my Wagon. If you have a better solution, please suggest it. I know that a P1800 sedan axle will bolt to a 122 sedan. I have a wagon, it's no use to me.

(5) Speedo Cable. Will a P1800 OD speedo cable be long enough for the amazon coversion?

(6) Clutch Cable vs Hydraulic Clutch? The P1800 has a cable, the P220 has a Hydraulic clutch. I figure that I could probably just switch bellhousings to keep it hydraulic. However, is a cable-clutch better? Can it be converted with limited trouble? I'm thinking of eventually switching the brakes over to the dual triangular P1800 system, so getting that Clutch master cylinder off the firewall would simplify the whole thing.

Aas always any help and information is great appreciated. Thanks.

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1967 P220 Amazon, 1972 145S, 1976 245 DL, 1983 245 DL, 1986 745 GLE, 1990 745 GL, 1995 945....
You mean to tell me that Volvo makes cars that are *NOT* Wagons?!?
1971 P1800E... Not a wagon, but it's just a donor car for the Amazon..

not sure about driveshaft lengths on the wagon, but I simply used the front short section from the 1800 on my 122 2-dr. connected right up to the back shaft. check out my thread on swedespeed for pictures and explanation.

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?176862-M41-Re-assembly-got-it-now-ready-to-swap!

Also, I found that the speedo cable from the 1800 would not reach from tranny to instrument...also, the stock speedo from the M40 would not reach either. I've yet to either order a new cable, or have mine lengthened (which I've heard is possible and can be cheaply done.

Good luck...the M41 will make a big difference for you

(1) My M41 has the selenoid on the left (driver's side). Which OD is that? J?
It is not actuating 100% of the time. Will a new selenoid fix it, or is a rebuild a better alternative. Where do I get a kit for that?

Yes, J. Yes, check/change the fluid level first. If it works most of the time, it's probably a simple fix.

(2) The output flange from the M41 is matched to the rather large diameter P1800 driveshaft. My Amazon uses the small diameter shaft. If I have my spare small-diameter foreshaft shortened, will it still bolt to the OD? Alternatively, if I upgrade to the larger diameter shaft (I already have a short foreshaft) Will the large diameter shaft bolt up to my P220 stock differential?

Alternatives that I see here... if you're having a section of driveshaft shortened, just have them use the large U-joint and yoke to fit the overdrive. Alternatively, find a late (maybe '72, definitely '73 ES) donor for the small flange and driveshaft.

(3) Are the rear driveshafts on the P1800 a different length than the rear shafts on Amazons? i.e. will I be able to use the rear section from the P1800 with my large diameter foreshaft?

Measure 'em. I don't know. See #2. My '66 wagon is fitted with a J-OD M41 and has small yokes and U-joints all the way. I do not know where the parts came from, but it does not appear that the driveshaft was ever shortened or modified. Perhaps from a '73 ES, maybe mix/match of 122/ES/140? I can get measurements from both my '66 wagon, and my '73 ES another time.. but not immediately. Might be helpful though.

I don't think it'll be so easy as using the large front section of driveshaft from the 1800 and the small rear section from the 122. Even if the splines work, I think you'll have issues with the carrier bearing and bushing.. try it and see though. I've been wrong before.

(4) Rear differentials... This has been covered in other forums. I'm still looking for a solution for the poor gear ratio in my wagon. I'm presently considering paying a machine shop to weld the 67's fittings to the P1800's rear axle so that it will bolt up to my Wagon. If you have a better solution, please suggest it. I know that a P1800 sedan axle will bolt to a 122 sedan. I have a wagon, it's no use to me.

With the overdrive, you might find the short gearing to be fine. And your speedometer won't be off if you keep the ratio. Save that 1800E rear end for another project... that is to say, a 122 sedan to which it is a bolt up proposition. If you must do the welding of a rear end to fit your wagon suspension, I'd go with one from a 140, which are much more common and will get you your disc brakes. It may seem like 140s are too wide, but the difference in track is only 1.4 inches. Of course, we're assuming you'd be using the 1800e front brakes/bolt pattern.

Save this project for another day. For now, work on getting the engine/transmission/driveshaft sorted. And again, you might find the ratio to be fine with the overdrive.

(5) Speedo Cable. Will a P1800 OD speedo cable be long enough for the amazon coversion?

You might find that the 122 cable will fit, if the 1800E is fitted with a right angle drive at the overdrive. If not, I think the 1800 cable will fit the 122 speedo head, but I'm not sure.

(6) Clutch Cable vs Hydraulic Clutch? The P1800 has a cable, the P220 has a Hydraulic clutch. I figure that I could probably just switch bellhousings to keep it hydraulic. However, is a cable-clutch better? Can it be converted with limited trouble? I'm thinking of eventually switching the brakes over to the dual triangular P1800 system, so getting that Clutch master cylinder off the firewall would simplify the whole thing.

Have you confirmed that your 1800E has a M41, and not a M410? If it's a M41, just stick with the hydraulic setup using your 122 bell housing. I see no advantage to the cable setup. If your O/D tranny is a M410, well then you're stuck with converting to a clutch. '69 and later 122s had cable clutches. Good luck finding one in the states though.

Keep in mind, you'll be wanting to use your 122 transmission cover and modify it to accept the 4th gear sensor. Unless you want the remote shifter, in which case you'll have to cut the tunnel.
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-Matt I ♥ my ♂

I've got an OD in my '68 220, and it works just fine with the factory 4.56 gearing. I'm planning on putting in a 140 rear axle and front spindles etc. in a 67 130 car I'm building.

Mr Repairman Jack,

I am following along the same lines as you. I have the B20 with overdrive trans, front axle from p1800 bolts right in. How did it go with the rear axle? I am currently looking into swapping the inner guts of a p1800 to the axle of my 125/220/Canadian. The seals and bearings all seem to be the same id numbers. Your suggestions would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Neil
1965 122 "work in progress"
1966 Canadian "work in progress"

1) That's a J-type. I'd wager that it failing to activate all the time is probably an indication that it is a little low on oil. That trans tended to weep a little oil, I had to add a half quart every once in a while. It was probably just the speedo cable seal, but I never got around to fixing it. Try adding a half quart (plain old cheap 30-wt motor oil) before doing anything else, see if it improves.

2) Typically, the flanges between the three sizes of driveshafts (thanks, Volvo!) don't work. Often, but not always, you can pull the flange off the trans/diff and swap it for another, but sometimes spline differences exist there.

3) AFAIK the rear section of the driveshaft is where the shorter wheelsbase of the 1800 makes up the difference. So it won't it on a 120/140. I'd suggest just getting the larger driveshaft extended a few inches at a driveline shop. The larger u-joints are just a bit tougher.

4) Welding the fittings on sounds like a good plan to me.

5) *Probably* but not sure. The 1800 has that Smiths speedo, no idea if the speedo end of the cable is the same or not. Worst case is you can still get the proper M41/122 cable from www.gcp.se.

6) I think the very latest production 122's all had cable clutches. I think (talk is cheap!) that putting one on an earlier 122 would just be a matter of using the clutch pedal from a cable car (I'm not sure if the 1800 pedals are the same length, *probably* are) and then drilling a hole in the pedal box up higher than the clutch M/C hole for the cable. (The M/C pushrod attaches below the pivot to get a push when the pedal is pushed, the cable mounts above the pivot to convert the push to a pull). Hydraulic clutches are presumably a tiny bit better, but the cable is at least dead simple.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.

I think the bellhousing and clutch release bearing arm are different too. A donor 140 would be a good target... I got all those parts for a future conversion when I got my D-type. I have no earthly idea why a 74 145 would have a D-type, but it did... wierd! Too bad the wrecker cut the driveshaft front half with a torch!

Hell.. I'd might just whip up a little conversion plate out of engine turned all or stainless to put those Smiths guages in the 122 . Cut yerself some templates the diameter of the guages and offer them up under the padded glare shield. You may find that just a modicum of cutting would be needed to the lower edge of the current instrument cluster hole to clearthe larger Smiths gauges. This, to be covered by a flat, guage mounting panel screed in place by counter sunk oval headed trim screws like in your windshield trim pieces. Card board mockups are highly reccomended .. measure twice, cut once!!

If you do it, POST PIX, OK!

Better yet my birthday is coming up and you could just give me the guages...hint, hint! HAHA!

Mike

"I think the bellhousing and clutch release bearing arm are different too."

Definately, but he has both. The complete hydraulic setup from the original 122 wagon parts, and the complete cable setup from the 1800E. Either bellhousing will set comfortable between the B20E and the M41. Although the later model cable bellhousing will have the proper lower bolt holes to bolt to the B20E's lower engine brace.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.

In like Flynn then. Just a walk in the park!!

Mike

I was mulling over the gauge switchout. I've never really liked the Amazon instruments, but I'm more worried about getting the whole D-jet in there properly.

This driveshaft thing sounds like it'll be a pain.

BTW: John, I actually looked under the P1800 this weekend. Wow.... scary. The DS front crossbrace is gone. The car also picked up this weird thunk and clunk from the front suspension, but I was unable to find the source when I had it on jacks.

I'm thinking that when (if) I get some spare time, I may start disassembling this car sooner than later.







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1967 P220 Amazon, 1972 145S, 1976 245 DL, 1983 245 DL, 1986 745 GLE, 1990 745 GL, 1995 945....
You mean to tell me that Volvo makes cars that are *NOT* Wagons?!?
1971 P1800E... Not a wagon, but it's just a donor car for the Amazon..

Eh - most parts cars don't move on their own at all! This one is at least still providing a convenient hanging rack for all the donor parts!

I had done some patching around the nose with thinnish gauge sheetmetal last time it was inspected. The inspector, for some reason, seemed skeptical about a car whose front bumper was falling off. As I recall the cancer was approaching the sway bar mounts rapidly, with the steering box/idler arm mounts not too far off.

Scary how fast and hard that rust hit. In 1987 I bought that as a very nice garage queen from CT. Nary a spot of rust on it. It was my only car, so I drove it on salty Midwest winter roads. And it seemed like the span of time between the first rust bubbles and when I threw in the towel and declared it was a lost cause was only 1 or 2 seasons, despite great efforts as rinsing/washing/etc between each salt exposure. now I have that beater Bronco II which I drive on the salt. It has a solid frame underneath, it would have to rust a *LOT* before anything important falls off. And both Volvo's stay put until the roads are entirely clear.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.