|
|
|
Hi Everyone,
Well, I upgraded from a 240 to a 940. At least I think that was an upgrade. Anyway I'm having a bit of a problem removing my front rotors. Gosh the 240 was a breeze.
I got the calipers off, but the caliper bracket that's attached to the strut housing won't budge. There are two bolts holding it that require a hex key. No matter how much torque I apply (including a nice big ball peen hammer slam) the bolts don't turn. Am I just a weakling or is there something I'm missing here? Sure hate to break something.
Thanks!
Roger Under the car ...
In Danbury CT USA
|
|
|
|
|
BTDT on those allen head bolts! I too have a 940, and mine is a rust belt car-- they were super tight-- I used a 3/8 drive hex socket and an 18" breaker bar with a pipe extension on it. They let loose with a bang! Mine looked a little buggered up, so I invested in new ones from the dealer.
Make sure your slide pins are free on reassembly, or else you will be doing brake work again too soon!
Good luck!
--
Herb Goltz, Aurora, Ontario, Canada '92 245 w/130K mi, '92 945T w/200K mi
|
|
|
|
|
Hey Herb,
I'm a seat of your pants do it yourselfer, so don't consider me too knowledgeable now. Just what is a slide pin and what does it do? And while we're at it, I noticed two small plungers at the top and bottom of this bracket. They've got a black rubber accordian boot over them. The top one moves freely and the bottom one is frozen solid. Do I have more problems?
|
|
|
|
|
The FAQ has a discussion of the slide pins, which are under the little rubber boots on top and bottom and allow the caliper to move laterally. They have to be able to slide freely. As a result, regular lubrication using synthetic brake grease is required.
--
See the 700/900 FAQ under 'Select Link' button on the top right.
|
|
|
|
|
This is great! Thanks so much Steve. I'll check it out right now.
|
|
|
|
|
Just replaced all 4 rotors a few days ago. I had to go to a hardware store to find the correct hexs to remove the front rotors, The front were very easy once the rotors were loosened. Get a "C" clamp from the store to compress the calipers for very installation of all pads. Probably too late to get new caliper hardware if I had known, now I do. Get a good hammer, not rubber, steel. The pads were so easy, I was shocked compared to the 240's. I t was made for the DIY er's. Bleed some brake fluid or your pedal will be loose.
|
|
|
|
|
Connecticut huh? They might be rusted in solid as well as having some loctite thrown in for good measure. I always just buzz them right out with a 1/2" impact gun and I have found many of them that are loctited in there. I believe that the replacement bolts come with a little dab of red thread sealant right on the new bolts. You can try heating things up a little bit with a propane torch.
Mark
|
|
|
|
|
Loctite, huh? I'm beginning to think the guy that had this car before me was a research chemist for Loctite. I can't get that escutcheon (did I spell that right?) off the insytrument cluster either. You're supposed to stick a screwdriver in those little rectangular slots and pull back, but nope, not on my car.
Anyway Mark, thanks a heap for the advice. I will apply some heat and a little more force and buy some extra bolts just in case. BTW, any idea what the exact size is. I've got an SAE set of hex keys and it's not an exact fit. Sure don't want to strip it.
Roger
|
|
|
|
I did my rotors about 3 years ago, and am guessing at 10mm for those allen-type bolts (mainly because that's the only size hex drive I have).
I also think I replaced them with "normal" hex bolts from my used 240 stash.
P.S. A brake line flare fitting on my '93 had red loctite applied (revealed on autopsy).
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
|
|
|
|
|
Change the bolts. Now there's a bright idea. Thanks Bruce!
|
|
|
|
|
if they are the same as on a 850 (and a lot of european cars) they will be 7mm allen bolts...on the 850 i had to employ a 24" torque wrench to break them free - turned it up 3 times! i remember getting to the point of 'if they dont come this time i really dont know how the hell i AM going to shift them - the angle makes it awkward to get a lot of torque on as well!
|
|
|
|
|
Oh man ... maybe I should start lifting weights to build up the ol' arm muscles. No wonder the hammer trick didn't work. Thanks for the reply.
|
|
|
|
They're not. 700/900 series use 10mm inhex bolts for the brake calipers. Sears does not carry a 1/2" drive 10mm hex key, but others like SK and Hazet do. I didn't have trouble loosening the bolts, but then again, I was banging away on my 18" breaker bar. Chances are 3/8" tools will not allow you to apply enough force.
--
alex
|
|
|
|
|
lol funny that - 0mm allen key no issue this side of the pond 7mm PITA to find...
still 10mm/7mm bet you have to use a LARGE brakerbar/torque wrench to move em...its all that heat cycling!
|
|
|
|
|
Hmmm ... looks like we've got a little difference of opinion. Well I'm gonna side with you Alex. This sucker looks pretty darn big. And pooh on Sears for not having what I need. I guess I gotta stake out the local garages until the Snap-On guy comes around. I haven't bought an S&K product in 30 years. Who the heck's gott 'em?
The feedback has been much appreciated. Thank you everyone for the education.
Roger
|
|
|
|
|
SK from mytoolstore.com, Hazet from Zelenda or Sam Stag.
--
alex
|
|
|
|
|
If you can't find a half-inch 10mm tool, you could take the approach I did with a smaller hex key problem. Buy a 10mm allen wrench, use a hack saw with a new blade to cut a section (one-inch or so long) off the allen wrench's long leg, mount a 10mm socket on your half-inch rachet wrench, put one end of the allen-wrench section into your 10mm socket and the other end into the bolt's socket. Ready for you to apply force.
There is a danger that your socket will break, so take appropriate precautions
--
jds
|
|
|
|
|
Ahhh jds, a man after my own heart. Improvise. That's the ticket. Although with all I've read so far, a quarter stick of dynamite might work best.
|
|
|
|
|
Yes, that is going to be a 10mm hex on that. I do beleive that is the correct spelling for escutcheon and even if it isn't all the late model 940 owners know what you are talking about and probably feel your pain. I use a straight punch that will fit in that hole and allow me to put some serious pressure on that darn spring clip in there and then a hook tool with a good handle on it to hook that same hole that you are pushing through. Pop one side and then the other and if you cannot get it to pop don't hang your head in shame because I was to "go to guy" on those damn bezels back in the day and even I had to animalize a couple here and there. Sometimes they just do not want to come out regardless of technique or experience, damned things anyhow.
Mark
|
|
|
|
|
Bezel! Why the heck didn't I think of that word. That's a heck of a lot easier than escutcheon. Either way, the damn thing still won't come out! Thanks Mark!
|
|
|
|
FWIW to the club of bigger hammer and longer swearing tirades, a brass hammer can do wonders and not bugger things up so much as a steel one. The bolts are about 5 bucks each from the dealership and yes you NEED locktite on them, lost one and the caliper jammed the wheel. Also. in addition to heat, use a drift aka taper punch in the center of the hex recess as you heat to help break the threads loose from the locktite. IWC2W, put that sawn off hex wrench (HF diamond wheels and a dremel tool cut cooler) in an impact if the cheater bends too much. Good luck from the undercar contorsionist school of hard locks.
|
|
|
|
|
You guys are starting to scare me! I think I'll plan a whole day for this job. Thanks so much for your advice.
|
|
|
|
|
IWC2W ? Google only shows 'Information Warfare/Command and Control Warfare' ??
|
|
|
|
|
