I use the 'rule of nines' method. But there is a 40-50 post thread in the 140 forum regarding this. One that largely absolves the 'rule of nines' of any malfeasance.
With the valve cover off, there are 8 valves, numbering 1 - 8 front to back (well, end to end really, I don't think it matters which direction you go in). What I do is pull the coil wire off so the motor won't start, and then bump the motor around with the starter (because I dislike scraping my knuckles on the radiator trying to turn the engine with the fan) until #1 goes down. Then I set #8. (1 + 8 = 9, thus the name of the method). Then I bump the motor around with the starter until #2 goes down, and set #7. And so on, sequentially down the line until #8 is down, and I set #1.
This involves turning the motor over a few extra times, but I find that using the starter motor makes that no extra effort, and doing them sequentially (1 through 8) makes it far easier to avoid skipping anything. Not counting getting the tools out, takes me 15 minutes.
Setting the valves doesn't affect the timing at all, nor does fidgeting with the plugs. But adjusting the points gap certainly does. Actually, those points are always gradually changing their timing, that little wood(like) block that rides on the 4-sided cam wears slowly, gradually retarding the timing over thousands of miles. But definately, retime it after adjusting the gap.
As for carbon buildup, two things:
1) Ensure that the carbs aren't running too rich.
2) Give if a full throttle romp up to the redline occasionally. I know the Volvo is a tractor motor, but it too can enjoy the benefits of an occasional Italian tuneup.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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