I have severe control problems at highway speeds with a crosswind in my 88 wagon. I know the rear shocks and front struts are old and in need of replacement.

I'm wondering if the shocks & struts will cure the problem. It almost feels as if the steering is loose, although with the car on jack stands the steering feels fine. With weight on the wheels the tires feel good also (side to side & pulling out at the top)

I recently replaced the torque rod bushings but have not done any others in the last 5 years.

So...what else should I inspect, and how? I do plan on replacing the shocks myself, may take it somewhere to get the struts done.

Thanks

Mike
--
1988 245, 224K mi, 5 speed

1st - check tire pressure like the others suggested. Cold night time temps can
cause leaks between the rim and tire.

2rd - Go ahead and replace your rear shocks. It is pretty cheap and really easy.

3nd - Look into the panhard rod. Inspect the bushings to make sure they are good. If the rod is able to be moved by hand or the bushings look cracked, it is time to replace. An easier fix than replacing the bushings might be to just replace the whole rod with bushings.
http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=1607&NodeID=5111&RootID=629

4th - inspect condition of ball joints/tie rod ends/wheel bearings. Although, since you only describe a problem under heavy winds this probably isn't it. These would manifest noticable problems all the time.

5th - Think about replacing the front struts. This probably isn't your problem though, dead struts make the car handle worse but not as bad as you describe.

Both 2,3 are problems that degrade slowly over time and you don't notice until someone else rides in your car or in certain extreme situations like heavy winds.

Good Luck

-Mike
--
- Mike

Incorrect air pressure in tires can sure cause symptoms. Shocks and struts might help a lot. Also check ball joints, both inner and outer tie rod connections, and bushings. The bushings at the rear of the front control arms go bad a lot. Track rod bushings, if bad, would cause side to side slop in the rear, like "twoforty's" said. Front sway bar bushings should be examined also.

If you decide to do struts, here are some directions that might help. Other posters will have different approaches and maybe some corrections or suggestions, but this method works well for me.

Also see Strut Replacement Procedure, 720-2, 720-5 Bentley. If you are not careful, you can get hurt or worse. Don't rush or drink beer while doing this job. Pay attention to what you're doing. Have a helper on hand the first time. These directions don't cover every single thing and assume basic DIY skills and safe shop procedures. The job might be a lot more difficult if your car is rusty, especially if the gland nut is corroded and stuck in the strut tube. How's that for a disclaimer?

1. With weight of car on the ground, loosen top nut 1 turn with special tool or air wrench. Do NOT remove.
2. Put car on jackstands, at least the front.
3. Remove front wheels.
4. Loosen strut gland nuts.
5. Remove end link top nuts. 17mm socket
6. Remove brake line bracket bolts. 12mm socket
7. Remove inner brake line clamps. 8mm socket
8. Disconnect tie rods. 18mm
9. Loosen fasteners for front and rear A-arm bushings.
10. Put jack under A-arm near wheel.
11. Release then remove 3 nuts on top of strut tower under hood. 13mm
12. Lower strut assembly to outside of fender.
13. Support assembly with two 3/16 rod special hooks into sway bar hole.
14. Compress spring SAFELY. 3 coils between jaws of compressors.
15. Remove top strut nut.
16. Remove bearing mount, spring seat, spring, bumpstop/boot.
17. Remove strut gland nut.
18. Pull out old strut, compare length to new, put in new.
19. Tighten gland nut. Use NeverSeize. The gland nut might not fully seat. You might see a thread or two. That's OK. New strut insert should be tightly held in tube.
20. Clean spring seat.
21. Install compressed spring, bump stop, spring seat, bearing/mount.
22. Tighten top nut (15 lbs) using Lisle special tool. Don’t spin strut rod inside strut.
23. Release spring compressors CAREFULLY, making sure spring is seated properly.
23. Raise strut assembly into strut tower while guiding end link into sway bar.
24. Torque top 13mm nuts to 15 pounds.
25. Tighten gland nut some more.
26. Torque tie rod ends to 44 lbs. with Loctite.
27. Put weight of car on wheels. Bounce car a bunch.
28. Torque front and rear A-arm bushings.

If you haven't done the job before, this might make it sound more difficult than it really is.

Thanks for all the help,
DougC

My 1986 Volvo GL wagon really needs both struts and rear shocks. I don't know how old what is on the car really is because I just inherited the vehicle, so I don't know if it is all stock, but I suspect that is the case.
I want to replace them all, but when I visited one of the Volvo parts websites my head began to swim. So dang many choices, such a very wide range of prices! Can someone out there with a wagon like mine advise me, please? I can tell you that usage-wise it will be common that I load this car heavily from time to time, both with passengers and with things like firewood in the back. I do not anticipate doing anything like trailer pulling.
Thanks!

From FCP Groton:

30.6607 Heavy Duty Rear Coil Spring for Wagons, will also work on Sedan's $43.00 each Scan Tech

Not a bad option for the heavily loaded car. Will keep your tail from dragging. For sedans, I recommend using stock wagon springs if needed for trailering or heavy loads.

I'd use either Sachs or Boge shocks for an original-equipment fit, quality parts and maintaining a soft ride. If you prefer something firmer, use the Bilstein Economy. I run those in my 87, and my wife's wagon will be getting a set as well. The HD's are probably a bit too firm for your car.

But all this will not help if there are loose parts. Ball joints, outer and INNER tie rods need to be checked and replaced, as well as all the bushings. Inner tie rods are a very common worn part.

Good luck with it!
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 87 244DL- 249K, 88 245DL- 181K, 84 242DL, 89 244DL parts, SOLD: 86 244, 88 244GL, 87 244, 91 244, 82 245T, 88 744GLE, 86 244

Ok, tires are correct !? If tires have high miles, they tend to loose sidewall strength, and will give a bit of a slopy feel. Also. check out "Track Rod" (from rear axle to chassis) bushings. Properly support car on jack stands....crawl under, grab hold of "Track Rod".... if you can move it...replace bushings. One of my first bargin Bricks, came off a dealers lot. "Bad suspension, doesn't drive right. Too expensive to fix." New bushings (not expensive), half day of crawling under brick. Felt like a new car. Before that, that Brick swayed all over the place....very unpredictable. keep us posted.

Enjoy.
--
84, 242GLTi, 167K, 4+OD, still in rehab; 89, 245 DL, 323K, M 47, daily driver; 93, 245, auto, 167K ; and other toys.

Before I advise anything else, especially in cold weather, for the problem of sloppy steering and boat-like handling (or blowing around in cross-winds, as you describe), I suggest the easiest and cheapest check....
Make sure your tires are properly inflated. Don't even consider anything else until you've confirmed that all your pressures are up to spec (or higher, if you prefer).
It's easy to forget that tires get low (in pressure) as it gets colder! You can be 10 psi low and not even see it -- but you'll certainly feel it in the car's behavior!

Sometimes the steering column joints go bad. There are two, basically miniature U-joints. They can get stiff, or they can get loose and sloppy instead.

My first brick had loose steering; the dealer/mechanic reached in from the engine compartment and felt something in there - presumably either the joint itself or the column - and told me that's what the problem was. Eventually we got it fixed.
--
Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).

an outside possibility, but check the fastenings on your power steering pump -the pump housing is bolted to a couple of half-moon shaped metal brackets. they in turn fasten to the rubber bushing assembly and the belt tightener.
two bolts to each metal bracket.