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Hello all. I have a few questions about an NA 940 I recently purchased. All around she's in great shape for a 12 year old car ('93) and has a fairly thorough dealer history up to 120,000 miles (now has 126k). I previously owned a 740 up until a year ago, when she finally gave up the ghost at 248k miles. Main question is motor I.D. What are the main diffrences between the b230f and b230fd in the 940 have?
Also, when starting up the 7, it'd fire on the second crank every time (chut, chut, VROOM), however the 9 takes 4-6 turns. Am I just being picky, or is this normal. I have noticed that if I start, shut off, then refire the engine, it'll fire faster and run better than if I just let it run. Odd. I've yet to clean the IAC and throttle body, will do today. Also have a cold start lope/misfire that'll last the first few seconds after startup, mainly in cold weather. I can't seem to get the timing right either. I can adjust the distributor, and feel a diffrence in the engine, but the timing mark won't budge? I can feel the timing float or drift while driving sometimes too. My first thought was hall sensor, as was the prob on the 740, but have realised I don't have one... Could RPM sensor cause this? Thanks to anyone with answers.
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Dear Keith940,
May this find you well. Congrats on your new ride! I believe the B230FD has a 100K-mile timing belt change interval (tooth profile is rounded, versus square on the B230F engine). The B230FD uses a Pulsair pollution-reduction system (the hoses that run across the front of the engine, to the exhaust manifold side). The FD engine also has oil "squirters", which bathe the pistons' under-sides, to limit "piston slap". I believe this feature was on 1993 and later model years.
Several things could cause the start-up difference: slightly corroded electrical contacts, or, as you surmise dirty throttle body, etc. Cleaning that, and the IACV, might help. Be sure to keep the IACV's nose (the hose connection end) pointed downwards, to keep solvent from entering the motor compartment. You can use cotton-tip swabs. Flush completely, to remove any cotton fibers.
As you wisely got the maintenance records, they should show an replacement of the RPM sensor. If the RPM sensor is the original - it will have a yellow band (paint) around the harness - it might be time for a change. The wiring harness deteriorates with time/heat, allowing wires to contact each other. Sometimes, moisture gets in, and does the same thing. This change is not hard, and is the same as on a 740 (see 700/900 FAQs under Site Features).
Have any On-Board Diagnostic codes been set? You can check these using the procedure in the FAQs.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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Thanks for the info! I cleaned the IAC, and it did help some with the idle. Well, after it stopped having seisures anyway. Someone needs to update the FAQ about this, as flooding it with cleaner and such produces some...interesting...results until it dries out. I saw another user whose IAC had similar problems. Cleaned the throttle body also. Yuck! That thing was nasty! Needless to say that helped in just about every way. Has anyone figured a way to put some kind of oil trap in the PCV line? I had all kinds of junk in there, some of it solids. I hate to think of what my motor may have already digested by now.
RPM sensor had been replaced, and looks like it was put in fairly recently. Still can't get my timing light to register any changes in timing though. More of an annoyance really. Haven't checked for codes yet. May do that later on tonight, as well as cap and rotor and a few other things.
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posted by
someone claiming to be jsmead
on
Wed Feb 22 05:25 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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Chut chut, vroom... did you get any improvement there? The timing is fixed by the computer and unmoving crank sensor. Any change you feel moving the distributor is due to spark impairment, not timing, because the timing trigger is no longer in the distributor. A switch to synthetic will keep the PCV from coking up, and your oil trap is possibly clogged (under the flame trap) you should have glimpsed it while cleaning the IAC. Yuck and nasty, yes. Hope this found you.
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Ha ha, yes. She does start easier. Don't quite feel like I'm rousing a bear from hibernation now. And thanks for the info on the flame and oil traps. Up until now I hadn't been able to find them...
So if turning the distributor does basically nothing for timing, is there an ideal setting for it, or do I just play it by ear?
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posted by
someone claiming to be K.P.W.
on
Thu Feb 23 07:57 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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cound long crank time be fuel psi check valve ? I know on my turbo
940 it was just on front of main pump. not sure about N/A motor.
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posted by
someone claiming to be ivor940
on
Sun Feb 26 11:37 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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Hi, I cured same problem on my 945T by changing the check valve fitted in front of the pump. To confirm it is the check valve, turn ignition on for 5 seconds ( don't start engine) turn off ignition on and then start car. If if starts immediatley, it is most likely the check valve. To confirm this, some morning undo the pressure side of the fuel line ( or remove the fuel pressure regulator) in either case with a rag available and ignition off. If there is no spurt of gasoline, you know pressure is not being kept in the line due to a u/s check valve. On a 940, Volvo may not list check valve seperate from pump so ask for the valve off a 960, which is available seperately ( Volvo PN 1326899 ). Also get new copper ring ( or heat / cool the old one - not near the gasoline you spilt trying to change the valve)
ivor940
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