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I purchest a 92 740 wagon ,no turbo a year ago and was told to only use a volvo factory filter. I have always used wix on my VW's and this is my first volvo. It only has 160k on it and other than a few small dents from the kids looks like new. I was told the factory filter is the only filter with a ckeck valve in it to keep oil in the head. If anyone could help me on this Id like some other in put from other volvo owners. I put about 350 to 450 miles a week all on the interstate driving so Im changing oil often. Thanks
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With reference to some posts below regarding oil and filter change frequency...
...from my Volvo owner's manuals, referring to non-turbo's and 'normal' service(trips longer than 7 mi, not primarily short trips):
1994-940 manual...oil and filter every 10,000 miles;
1983-240 manual...oil and filter every 7500 miles;
The longer interval of the 1994 manual probably reflects the improvement in oils over 11 years.
Synthetic oils are recommended for severe service conditions.
Right from the factory engineers, folks.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F/M46, dtr's 83-244DL B23F/M46, my 94-944 B230FD; hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)
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Right. What are the specs for the 940 oil? I suspect the '83 is specifying API SE or slightly newer, and the '94 is specing something a bit more modern.
My '89 760's owner's manual specifies API SF with an OCI of 5,000mi (under any type of driving conditions) for the B280F and B230FT.
--
alex
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posted by
someone claiming to be Al
on
Sat Feb 25 07:24 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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I use a Mann on both my Volvo's. $3.50 each from FCP Groton.
After hanging out at Bobistheoilguy.com I have learned that
Mobil 1, K&N, Napa Gold, and Wix are pretty good oil filters over all.
If your not using a Mann or Volvo filter the above oil filters should work fine. Do Not use the Orange Can of Death (Fram)
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Recently, there was an oil filter discussion on a Chrysler minivan board I look at, I had posted (to at least one other minivan owner's delight) that Mann W917s fit the Chrysler 3.3 V6. Yesterday, someone there added this:
"ArvinMeritor announced today (2/23/06) that it has entered into a definitive agreement to sell its Light Vehicle Aftermarket (LVA) Purolator filters business in North America to Bosch and MANN+HUMMEL. The transaction is subject to regulatory approvals. Terms of the agreement were not disclosed. The agreement to sell Purolator is part of ArvinMeritor’s previously announced strategy to divest its LVA businesses individually."
I'd like to think that this would mean that Purolator would get better, but I suppose that we will need to keep an eye out for the opposite.
--
Andy in St. Paul - '91 745 213K mi, '91 745 210K, '90 744 183K, all Rex-Regina - past 240s
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In the near future, things will remain the same. Besides, Puralators, though more sloppily assembled, are decent filters anyways. Not the best out there, but not bad either, and more than sufficient.
-- Kane
--
While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.
5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in SoCal, from '64 to '94. See profile for info.
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As ipd says:
"This filter manufactured by Mann® grabbed the number one slot. Mann is the original supplier of oil filters to Volvo. " (http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=1323&NodeID=4062&RootID=629)
In other words, Volvo filters are Mann filters with the volvo logo.
--
Joaquin / Rojo 121 / Lima, Peru
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I love this stuff, I really do; only people care about this; car does not care - this is a volvo red block motor - it will run fine with anything.
A new cheap filter is better than an old expensive one - they all do the same thing for the first month. Just change the oil and filter a lot, and use cheap stuff.
Ignore the "I sawed a filter in half and X filters are junk" stuff you see all over the web. Completely irrelevant to the device's function - it filters or it doesn't.
The drainback valve debate is particularly nonsensical - look at where the filter is located on a red block... oiling is not an issue with these engines. You would know about it if it was.
You can use anything and the car will be fine.
--
Stef (81 245 B21A SU M46 3.91 330000km, 81 244 BW55 3.31 220000km)
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I have a bunch of toyota filters with check valve that fit the volvo. They are a little smaller but have the same thread and sealing surface area. Can I use them or could they damage the engine?? I hate to throw them out now that my toyota is gone.
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if it fits, use it; it won't damage anything, unless you leave it off...
posts attributing engine life to oil/filter are plain wrong; the engine is good and runs a long time because the engine is well made and properly designed to lubricate adequately with available oil.
It does not matter what oil/filter you use as long as you use API specified service quality oil/filter.
It does matter what engine you use...
--
Stef (81 245 B21A SU M46 3.91 330000km, 81 244 BW55 3.31 220000km)
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- Ignore the "I sawed a filter in half and X filters are junk" stuff you see all over the web. Completely irrelevant to the device's function - it filters or it doesn't.
Well, there is a relevance to this ... how much can it filter? All else being equal, more surface area means the filter is less prone to be clogged up. Also, the construction does matter, as the bypass valve should have a good surface to seal against to prevent leakage. If it doesn't, then the oil is just circulating around the filter and not through the media.
- The drainback valve debate is particularly nonsensical - look at where the filter is located on a red block... oiling is not an issue with these engines. You would know about it if it was.
If the filter was bottom mounted, then yes, such is irrelevant. However, the filter is side mounted on the block, and if the filter didn't have a good anti-drainback valve, then the result is some oil starvation at startup. That's not good. 2 seconds per startup, even just twice a day, for every day in a year ... that adds up to over 24 minutes of running without oil!
The thing is that getting a quality made oil filter does not cost any more than a cheaply made oil filter, so why waste one's money?
Mann W917 - 316 sq.in. of filtering
Motorcraft FL300 - 228 sq.in. of filtering
Fram PH7328 - 111 sq.in. of filtering
FWIW, I pay under $4/ea. for Mann filters and I have a pile of Motorcraft filters (1A and 300) that I got for $2.50/ea.
Cardboard construction, skimpy filtering media, and a $5 price tag ... who in the right mind would buy a Fram filter?
-- Kane ... or worse, no-name imported filters, like Made in China ones that some quick-lube places use.
--
While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.
5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in SoCal, from '64 to '94. See profile for info.
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wow.. a lively discussion thread. we all need to get a life.
anyway, I have used Mann exclusively for 15 yrs on my 4 Volvos which have a collective 700,000mi. That said, I recently bought a bunch of K&Ns online onsale, for the simple reason that they have a large bolt welded to the bottom (top?) which allows me to wrench them off superquick without messing around the hot blower. I sleep better at night also knowing that my cars are pure K&N now ! somebody help me.
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I solved a drainback problem on a Jeep 4.0L with a Wix. The Fram had a poor anti-drainback valve and the oil would return to the pan and the engine knocked like crazy until the filter would refill. Not all Fram's use a cheesy anti-drainback valve but why risk engine damage?
I use the Mann because it's good and reasonably priced from FCP.
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Above all, be sure to use a filter, OEM Volvo or else Mann, with a checkvalve! It ensures faster lubrication on startup.
re: "...I put about 350 to 450 miles a week all on the interstate driving so Im changing oil often...."
How often do you change your oil? I know air-cooled old VW owners often change at 2,500 mi intervals, but it isn't necessary with Volvo's. My wife drives 350 miles per week commuting -- and that not much compared to most commuters in N.J. But I change her oil and filter only twice a year.
The secret.... I use synthetic oil (I happen to use AmsOil, but I hear that Redline and Mobil 1 are good, too). And everything inside stays clean -- you can see how everything under the valve cover is pristine, as well as the flame trap staying clear -- a good quality synthetic has excellent cleaning properties, and it's designed for far greater oil change intervals than the 8-9,000 miles I observe.
And even if synthetic is much more expensive (and it is!), it's not too bad if it lets you extend your change intervals.
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Ken Im changing at 3k or within a few hunderd miles. I used syn in a dodge and sold it with over 250k on it. Never had a oil related problem. Also I can see the side mount or under mount of the oil filter. The one thing everyone seems to agree on is the same web site and the same mann filter. Ive been useing wix on the wifes 94 lumnia 3.1 and there is 240k on it and never had to do anything to the eng( oil related ). Dosnt burn or use any eather.
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do you only change the filter when you do you oil? (8-9k mi)?
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I understand now... because that other guy, 'interstition', said he changes his filter without changing his oil (changes the filter twice as often as the oil), you thought I did that too!
But no (as I explained in the earlier message) -- I change the oil and the filter every time.
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I do change the filter three times for every time I change the Mobil-1. And I add the amount of oil lost from the filter change at that time.
I do it this way because I read a detailed analysis where a group did oil and filter changes various ways with oil sent in for analysis every thousand miles. They found that the filters needed to be changed by around 3K because they were becoming clogged. They also determined that the change of that quart of oil was important for keeping the oil within specs. It wasn't until somewhere after 10K (with 3K filter changes) that the synthetic became too broken down and needed a complete change.
I don't have that link any more, but maybe I can find this study again if I go look.
--
Andy in St. Paul - '91 745 213K mi, '91 745 210K, '90 744 183K, all Rex-Regina - past 240s
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A friend of mine, God Rest his soul, who recently and unexpectedly died loved to tell me automotive stories. Like how "Mr. Rolls and Mr. Royce assembled everything under kerosene [in a tank] by hand"
He also helped me understand that synthetic oil is nothing new. I remember him telling me about a study done with New York taxis. They all had synthetic oil put in, then were run normally (which is pretty rough compared to standard driver...) for 100k mi. After this the engines were dissembled and "looked new as a whistle"
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re: "...do you only change the filter when you do you oil? (8-9k mi)?..."
I'm not sure what you're asking. The word "only", as you used it in "...only change the filter..." doesn't make sense. No one would only change the filter and not change the oil -- incomprehensible.
But if you meant to write "also" instead of "only", as in "do you also change the filter when you do you[sic] oil?...", then my answer is yes, of course! I always change the filter when I change the oil -- I always use a Volvo-grand filter -- and it actually comes to about every 10,000 miles. (and per earlier discussions on another topic, I use a fresh crush washer every time, too. :-)
But my engines really stay clean inside -- under the valve cover everything is shiny (wet with oil, but shiny). No gum or anything. And the flame trap clean, too (I changed my '84's to the later position, on top of the manifold).
And no signs that my valve lash ever needs adjusting (different thickness spacers) -- doesn't ever seem to wear, with synthetic. Both my '93 and my own '84 seem to need only one refill of oil between changes (~5,000 mi per quart) -- my other '93 is used too infrequently to tell. And easy cranking in the winter, too!
Regards,
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I change filter after 4k and then again after 3K, which means adding a little less than a quart of fresh oil each time. So some of the synthetic does get changed before the full change I do at 10K.
--
Andy in St. Paul - '91 745 213K mi, '91 745 210K, '90 744 183K, all Rex-Regina - past 240s
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posted by
someone claiming to be fixit 2003
on
Sun Feb 19 07:23 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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You can usually get a pretty good deal on Mann filters on ebay. Ten for $35-40. Framm usually comes out low on any list of oil filter evaluations. For some oil filter info try: minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
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I buy them from a couple of online sites since I can get them cheaper than anything I have seen on eBay once you include shipping.
At eeuroparts.com, free shipping kicks in for orders over $39 and a case of 10 is $34.90. But you can buy two individual filters too and get 12 for $42.78. I always need another item or two for my Volvos, so getting over the $39 when buying a lot of 10 has never been a problem.
fcpgroton.com has them 10 for $35, but you pay shipping.
--
Andy in St. Paul - '91 745 213K mi, '91 745 210K, '90 744 183K, all Rex-Regina - past 240s
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It's really not that much difference in price over the aftermarket- Fram, Wix or NAPA, so why not spend the little bit extra. Mann makes the filters for Volvo- all they do is put on the factory label.
I drive about 350 a week in my 740, so I know what you mean about frequent changes. I just buy them at 10 at a time and I'm good to go.
Mike in Tacoma
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In Tacoma '86 245 200K+ and '86 740T- 215K+ both with M46
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Instead of the OEM branded filter, buy the identical Mann filter from FCPGroton for about $3.50 each. These filters are of superb quality and at that price, it makes no sense to use an aftermarket unit.
--
See the 700/900 FAQ under 'Select Link' button on the top right.
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