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Will rims sized 16" X 6.5 X 5X108 with +49 offset fit on a 1992 240 which is fitted with (14" 5.5 X 5X108 with +20 offset). The dealer has told me that I have to find a set of rims which are bolted on with "nuts" and not lugbolts screwed into the drums/rotos. I understand that they must be attached with nuts, but can any newer style rims (originally supplied with lugbolts for attachment) be put on my car using chrome nuts for attachment, thus utlizing the existing bolts which are already in my drums/rotors.
Thanks for any insight
Frank
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I am running Helium wheels on a 1993 240 wagon. These are 16 x 6.5 from the FWD S70. To get them to fit properly I am using 25mm Gil Racing Wheel Adapters on all four wheels. I am running 215/55-16 tires.
I did try the 32mm adapers in rear and ran into clearance problems with the rear fender lip. This was cured by switching to the 25mm spacer.
However, be warned, if you lower the car you will have clearance problems yet again at the rear fender lip.
I had to rent a fender lip roller to push the lip of the way mostly toward the rear of the fender arch. I've been happy since then.
If you have a sedan then you will go with 205/55-16 tires, which should cause you less issues.
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absolutely not. no fit. why? you are off 29mm for you offset. 49-20=29mm. you will need to run an adapter to get a rim like the one you want on your 240. i run a 16 x 6.5 x 43mm volvo front wheel drive rims (they used wheel bolts originally but i run the tall boy tapered chrome lug nut) on my car with 205/50/16 tyres. to put them on without the adapters (25mm fronts/32mm rears) results in mad rubbing toward the inside. not gonna work, no way, no how. may not even rotate on the front with the strut tubes and stuff. you need to push the rims out. a minimum thickness 25mm adpater allows you to recess the oem lugnut into the spacer, which is like 23mm tall. i run the 25/32 set up because you get a more agressive stance. still i am getting some slight rubbing at the bottom of the rear fender opening. now i need to roll the rear fenders to get everything just right.
check this out: http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f51/Strong-Pimp-Hand/volo244.jpg
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VX, adj. cam gear, new head, trans cooler, stainless brake lines, electric fan, fully braced, IpD sways, poly bushes, Bils, boxed front & rear arms, lowering springs, 16" Perfos, 25/32mm adapters, 100% zero miled, and much more
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Would a set of 17" Volvo Polaris wheels for a 700/900 series with 225/45/17 work?
Thanks
Frank
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Yes, the Polaris or Eiker replicas with 225/45 will fit a 240 just fine...although rear fender lip trimming/rolling might be needed depending on ride height and rear shocks. The front has plenty of room for wide tires, but the rear is always an issue just above the mudflap where the quarterpanel profile curves in.
On 6" to 7" wheels, an offset of 10mm to about 25mm will work OK on a 240 in many cases. As you get closer to 30mm, and go up to the 43mm-49mm of the FWD volvo wheels, you need spacers or adapters.
With a narrower wheel, for example 5.5", a 40mm offset could still work OK. They would be less sensative to offset variation simply because they are narrow. On wider wheels (8" and wider), 10-15mm or less is desirable. My 9.5"s will be near 0 offset rear and negative offset front, after factoring in adapter thickness.
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forums.turbobricks.com
Parting out '84 DL auto, many cheap parts available
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no way! not without some effort, not going to just bolt up. if you can score the rims cheap, get them. then, you will need adapters. no other way. 25mm in the front and at least something between 25mm and 32mm in the rear.
i think the 32mm rear adapters i have could have been like 28mm or 30mm. what i have still works and the car looks good. still, i am running a 205/50 and that rubs a little. you want to run a 225???, some work and thought is required.
on a volvo, nothing is as it seems. do you know the ET on the volans. i think they are 49mm. way deep. plus, they are 7" wide! on the rear of your car, the adapters will need to push the rim out far to compensate for the rim width, at least 30mm if not 32mm. on the front, 25mm is perfect.
spacers will not work because you'll need super long studs, a little too crack headish if you ask me.
adapters (or the 40 lug set up) is the only way to go. hub & wheel centeric adapters are they only safe way and going to run you about $300. no way around that either. check ebay but be careful. i got burned on adapters there. i'll give you the specs and you can shop around. check around at local cnc or machione shops, then internet, and then ebay.
your specs, cause you'll have to have em custom made:
1) 4 adapters (2) 25mm front & lets say (2) 30mm rear
2) 65mm centerbore (very, very important) same spec for both the hub and wheel sides
3) new studs in adapters are to be (important) the volvo 1/2-20 size. no exception. or, they will not fit through the lug holes in da rim. ask me how i know? can you say the HARD way.
4) 5x108 (your car) to 5x108 (new rims) bolt pattern for the adapters. this is also very important.
you can reuse your old lug nuts. got a torque wrench? now, you also need 20 tall boy acorn style lug nuts (ebay is great for this). again, they need to be 1/2-20 nuts. they will fit the taper of the front wheel drive rims no problem since wheel bolts are the same thing with a bolt in place of a threaded hole, got it?
and, for the 225 tyre, fender rolling will be necesary in my opinion. the math will be close because you do not have alot of wiggle room if the rear fender lips are not removed (rolled) from the equation. i did see a killer article on turbobricks.com, by michael towery, about moding the inside of the rear well & rear fender in another way for seriuosly BIG meats. very informative. not on my current car but my v8 volvo project, OH YEAH!
cost of rims, tyres, adapters, lugs, and any associated sockets and wrenches is going to easily run you over $1,000.
and, in the end, you'll need two people to put everything on. one guy has to hold the brakes while you TORQUE everything.
too, i know there is a place on the internet that rents the fender rolling tool/machine. very easy to do yourself. i plan on google-ing the name (saw it on turbobricks.com) and renting the machine from them. as soon as this cold as a witch's tit weather changes. the tool rental involes a $300 deposit, they mail it to you, you use it, put it back in the box, mail it back, and pay a nominal fee. easy as pie.
after all is said and done, is it worth it?
HELL YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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VX, adj. cam gear, new head, trans cooler, stainless brake lines, electric fan, fully braced, IpD sways, poly bushes, Bils, boxed front & rear arms, lowering springs, 16" Perfos, 25/32mm adapters, 100% zero miled, and much more
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On a lug nut there is a flat side and a round side. The round side that seats against the wheel should have the same angle as the corresponding surface of the wheel. As long as the wheel uses the same lug spacing as the rotor, it should be fine. It would help to have an old lug bolt specimen from the previous application for comparison. The easiest way to tell would be to test fit the wheel to your car.
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posted by
someone claiming to be jorrell
on
Sat Feb 18 13:17 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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I'm running Volvo Hydras on my 92 245 with 205x50x16 Yoko rubber. Still using the factory studs and nuts, no problem. The car also has IPD sport springs so its sitting about an inch lower.
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I've also got Hydras on my 240s, but its offset is 25mm (typical for 700s) and only 5mm more than a 240's 20mm offset; and these cars all used lug nuts (although the threads were different). The wheels that guy is asking about is likely a FWD car's wheel, with a 49mm offset; and those cars use lug bolts, not nuts.
However, I think the biggest concern is the offset -- where the wheel will be centered. This FWD wheel would move his tire's centerline (and of course, his sidewalls, too) about an inch and a quarter (29 mm) to one side, compared to a 240's wheel. But the total shift of his sidewalls (compared to a 240's tire) would be not only the offset, but also be based on the increase in section width, compared to a 240's 185mm section width.
So he should measure carefully.
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posted by
someone claiming to be jorrell
on
Sun Feb 19 16:09 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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Ken:
I totally agree. I can assure you that there isn't 1.25 inches of slop in either the in or out direction without hitting either sheet metal or strut towers.
jorrell
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