This car is fairly new to me with just under 100k. When I got it speed 1 didn't work. Now Speed 2 will only work after I have run the fan at 3 or 4 for a few minutes, but speed 2 seems slower than it did when it was working regularly, and maybe it's just me, but the motor's pitch seems variable now on this setting, like the fan motor is resisting due to it's advancing age.

NB: I did hear the dreadful moan of impending doom from this unit one morning at startup when it was about -15f, but only that one time and only for a minute.

My '89 has a shiny new fan motor. Will this one be joining it shortly, or do I have a switch problem? I did search the faqs, but couldn't find this exactly. Thanks for any help. / Jim

The speed control in your car (I have a 1986 244 same problem) is a three-part resistor. The switch sends power to the resistor, then it goes to the motor.

Speed #1, power goes through all three resistors. Speed #2, only through two, Speed #3, just one, and speed #1 is direct, no resistors.

The first and second resistors are open.

The unit is mounted inside the air box, same space as the blower motor. It is ceramic coated, and I assume that it heats up in use.

Replacement is about the same labor as replacing the blower motor. I am waiting for the motor to crater before repairing both of them. The climate here in northwest Houston, TX is such that I can live with the situation.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Not that this helps much, but the resistor(s) might not be open. The motor is just too stiff to start with the reduced current. You can prove by running it at three then switching to 2 and comparing time to slow to zero with switching it off. Or look for the spark of current when pulling the fuse with the setting on 1 or 2. Leave it set that way too long and you might take the resistor too. Either way, you'll be in the box and it never hurts to have a resistor/switch kit on hand.

I saw a post somewhere that you can substitute a fan control switch from a 740 (junkyard). Apparently it has the resistor(s) built into the control switch. Send the output from the "new" control switch down the "full power" output lead that I imagine must be there on the 240.

I haven't done this projecty yet - though my wife's car needs it. I've done a couple other modifications; you have to go into such a project ready to do some cutting or drilling etc., and be ready for a bit of detective work or surprises. This project doesh't seem nearly as involved as the electric radiator fan conversion, or the e-code headlight conversion though.
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Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).

faggedaboudit. This falls into the category of sumpin' for nuttin' and will just get your hopes up to fall again. The electric fan and ecodes are worthwhile changes however.

Thanks.
I'll check for spark at fuse with it set at 1 or 2.
I'll also test coast-to-stop time at Off vs. 1 vs. 2.
That should tell me whether the resistors have gone open-circuit.

No more elective car surgery till warmer weather though. I finished up the e-code project (except for trim work) in Dec. & Jan., that was no picnic here in New England. Worth it though.

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Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).