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Easy thing first - the tach.
Very easy DIY job. You must do two things 1) remove and reinstall the instrument cluster, and 2) get a tach + small clock + harness kit. (eBay) Be sure to get tach, small clock, harness, rubber "feet" and bezel.
The wire with the signal from the engine is already in your Volvo.
Disconnect the battery negative cable (write down any radio codes first) and remove the instrument panel. Tag the wires you disconnect from the panel so as to get them re-connected correctly.
Remove the upper of two black 2-inch square panels left of the upper radio spot. On the back of the clock, install the wire harness and a ground lead. thread the wires through the hole that the panel covered. Install the three rubber mounting "feet" and install the clock into the hole. Install the bezel. Locate a place to attach the ground lead and attach it.
Remove the clock from the instrument cluster. In its place install the tachometer. Place the instrument cluster where it will go into the dash but leave space so that you can get a hand behind it. Connect the signal wire to the single-spade on the tach, it's red/white and has and insulated female connector on it.
Connect the "new" wire harness to the 3-spade group on the tach. Connect ALL the other wires to the cluster.
Install the cluster. Connect the battery, test.
Listen to others who may post, it's been a while since I did this job. It's possible that the clock gets its ground connection via the three-wire harness.
Once you have a tach all your Volvos will have one, whether factory or you.
Enjoy. The power band on the B230F is 3000 - 4800 rpm. Start off normally, watch the tach to get the stock shift points. Use the shifter position to force tranny at higher revs, feel the power. Surprise a Mustang.
Next - the suspension. There are replaceable bushings in the front suspension and the rear. Your tech recommended which ones? Rears are more of a bear of a job. Fronts can be a DIY, should be done concurrently with ball joints and tie rod ends.
You can defer these repairs for a good while, up to a year, at the risk of uneven tire wear, reduction of rear road clearance, and embarassing "clunks".
Sway bar replacement? Surely he means the bushings!! The bars are either good or broken. Broken, even the end links, means the car got a hell of a whack. OR, installing the more-fun heavier bars, like from IPD.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
PS, I recommend that you post here ALL recommendations that you get from that mechanic.
Bob
:>)
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