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1)
The driver's side tail lights are completely out, and one works on the passenger side. I took the one bulb that works and put it on the driver's side, and it doesn't work there, either. The fuses seem to be working fine as well. The brake lights on both sides work fine.
Any ideas on what could be causing the problem?
Also, what does a completely lit up tail light/brake light system look like on the 92 240 sedan? I'm not sure mine has ever worked completely properly.
2) The reverse lights work fine, but they turn off if I move my gear shifter close to "neutral." I'm still in reverse, but there's enough play in the gear shifter that if it gets close to "N" the reverse lights go off. I can't imagine it was designed that way.
3) In the cold, the gear shifter sticks in Park until I tap it, and then it shifts fine.
4) the speakers/radio are awful. Terrible reception, and the speakers go in and out of service.
5) I think the A/C compressor is out, but I'm not sure. Are there other things that could cause the A/C to stop working (other than Freon)?
Thanks!
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I had a similar problem with my 92 that went away with a new radio. Dan
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1) connector to taillight can be adjusted or the sockets and circuit sheet could use a buffing
2) they are, after all, called reverse lights
3) I think the solenoid is balky (there is a manual overide) or the shift knob is creeping up a bit and needs to be re-seated
4) you don't need music and they do not have the Bentley manual on CD, yet
5) hot wire the compressor briefly to see if it would try to compress. Probably low refrigerant if the compressor activates.
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Thanks, rhaire. I'll try those. Re: the reverse lights, perhaps I wasn't clear. The reverse lights go off while I'm in reverse. Think of the gear shifter as if it had three "sections": top, middle, and bottom. At the top and middle, the lights are on, at the "bottom" (i.e., closest to the neutral gear, but still in reverse), the lights are off.
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OK, I was trying to be cute, too. There is adjustment to the start inhibitor switch and may be some to the reverse switch as well. Then too, though I have not seen this, there are linkage bushings that are dirt cheap and easy to replace, that control the shift lever slop. But I am not sure any of this would affect your reverse light switch.
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Remove the 2 screws at the front of the shifter cover
Slide it back so the rear end clears the metal lug that goes in the hole at the rear of the cover.
Slide it up the shifter stalk and put a clothespin od spring clip on the shaft tp keep it out of the way
Look on right side of shifter for a grey triangular shaped thing. Notice it is secured with 2 screws, loosen them, turn the key to II pos and then move the box rearward just a tad. See if rev lights stay on when you move shifter back and forth. If ok then put back in park and tighten up the screws.
Sounds like low freon in system. See if jumping it like rhaire said makes compressor come on then before you do a DIY freon job check all the pipes for OBVIOUS leaks/breaks (at the compressor if the rubber isolator bushings get sloppy the compressor can shift and contact one of the metal pipes that carry freon to evaporator or condenser. Try moving the compressor, if it moves then most likely the pipe is worn or cracked. Its an easy junkyard pipe to find but swap rubber busings as well then get a pro to properly evac the system and do a dye test for leaks before fill up with freon-if not already R134A then now is the time...
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This is one of two relatively simple problems to fix. First, and less likely if you dont' have any trouble with the car not starting until you wiggle the shifter: the sensor under the shifter bezel is out of alignment. BUT! if you haven't ever touched under the bezel, I would move right along to the second possability
2 - Your shifter linkage is out of alignment. This linkage is a very simple assembly underneath the car with a simple adjusting mechanism that can be accessed without removing any panels etc. Any adjustment made underneath the car causes the shifter to be affected in the opposite direction.
Good Luck!
--
-Flup, 240DL Wagon, 2 subs in the trunk, Dancing Bears Sticker to top it off :)
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There are shift linkage bushings.
They keep the shift action working as intended.
I've had 'em replaced a couple times on the various cars we've been driving.
Apparently a quick + easy job if you know how to do it. I never went there myself because I don't like to do much under the middle of the car. Too much of a pain in the *** and I can't see what I'm doing either (farsighted).
There are also 4 bolts holding the shift assembly in place under the car. Our '90 came to us with the 4 completely loose, you had to wiggle the shifter around a whole lot just to get the park/neutral lock to deactivate to be able to start the car. Shift action was pretty sloppy. Also a very quick fix for our shop - they billed for only about 15-20 minutes work.
--
Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).
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posted by
someone claiming to be Manolo
on
Sun Jan 29 10:21 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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The "good" news is that these are all relatively common problems that you can find discussed if you do a search on this forum.
1) I believe there is a circuit board in each tail light. I've not experienced this but it was discussed just this week.
4) Bad reception is probably a poor connection at one end of the shielded cable that runs from the radio to the antenna, or physical damage to the cable or the antenna. If you pull the glove box so you can access the back of the radio, or pop out the covers to the left of the radio and pull the radio out, a little trial and error with a coat hangar antenna should trace the problem.
5) Speakers going in an out is typically the balance/fader control in the radio. Those things were chronically defective and resulted in a LOT of '90+ radios getting pulled out and tossed within the first 5 years of car's life. If you have an original radio in a '92, that is relatively rare. If you have some tuner cleaner spray, pop out the radio and pull the cover and give that potentiometer a good soaking, followed by a lot of physical abuse (twisting, pushing, pulling on the knob) to clean it up. I had to do that to my '91 once a year from about year 3 to year 7. After that, it seemed to clear up and has worked OK since. I bought my '90 used, so it already had a different radio in it when I got it.
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