I've been experiencing what is apparently a common problem with the M46 (?; 4 speed + electronic OD) transmission: difficulty shifting into first and second, and occasional crunch when shifitng into reverse. I have noticed that the first, second shifting problem gets more pronounced as the car warms up. The car is just shy of 199K miles.

I took it to a mechanic yesterday, and he tells me that the problem is not in the clutch, but inside the transmission. Bottom line: if he takes it out and can repair it, it will cost about $1000; if he has to replace it with a used transmission, it will be around $1500, plus another $250 if he replaces the clutch plate, etc.

Yikes.

So, my questions are, does this seem right? (I realize it's hard to make a diagnosis indirectly.) Also, what is the worst case scenario if I do nothing?

Is there any middle ground solution?

Thanks in advance!

Joe

When this problem happened with mine it was due to the pin slipping out that connects the shifter to the gear selector rod. Mine had almost come out completely before I discovered it. It's held in place with a Allen screw on the bottom of the shifter shaft. No mention of possible master or slave cylinder problems that could also make for hard shifting into gear from a standstill. There's also some goopy ATF additive available for high mileage manual boxes. A little pricey at almost $20 but it may help.

>> When this problem happened with mine it was due to the pin slipping out that connects the shifter to the gear selector rod. Mine had almost come out completely before I discovered it. It's held in place with a Allen screw on the bottom of the shifter shaft.

Is this accessible by removing the rubber boot?

In a word....no. You'd need very small hands with very long fingers and the allen screw can not be seen from the top. You can easily see top if the pin is loose but you need to get under the car to tighten the screw. Even then its not too easy because it's right on top of the flex coupling and there's just not very much room. On my '89 there was also a o-ring around the pin that acted as a spacer. This had split and needed replacement.

Joe,

No one has mentioned to try some synthetic fluid. This helped my 91, but did not cure the problem. Also look at adjusting the reverse detent gate up on top at the shifter. Sometimes this helps. On my 91 it did not, but on my old 82 240 it made a world of difference. You can try to see if this might help by carefully shifting while holding up the reverse lock. Just don't shift into reverse while moving forward! Also for reverse, simply put the car in first after it stops moving, and then in to reverse. My car almost never grinds anymore after doing this. I have also heard that overfilling the transmission from the top helps the sticking too. Have you simply checked the fluid level? Even refreshing the fluid with regular ATF may help a bit. I used Amsoil supershift ATF, and it did help a bit. My car has 240 kms on it.

I have had a few people talk about adjusting or lubing the linkage, but no one seems to know how to do this to fix the problem. Others note that the linkage mount can break at the front and cause this problem. Never had a chance to find out on mine if this was a factor.

My transmission has good and bad days. It really doesn't like to be driven hard in hot weather, or it gets sticky. If you have some patience when you drive, I don't find it a really big deal, but some days it gets a little frustrating. Just pop it into first as you coast to a stop, but then you worry about wear on the throw out bearing sitting at a light etc.

Sean

Sean,

Thanks. I'll try to take a look at the fluid level. I have read about the reverse lockout plate, but the FAQ is not specific about the M46, just the M47.

When I first got the car, I haad a heckuva time trying to find reverse. I've got the hang of it now, although there are still times when I really have to hunt around for it.

Two questions: Are you mechanical and when did you last put a clutch in the car? $1000 seems like a lot. Used tranny for $250 tops and $250 to install.

Where are you located ?

I'm in NY (Queens). I'm fairly mechanical, although I have never installed a clutch. The main obstacle to doing it myself is that I don't have anywhere to work on it.

Joe,

It could be something as simple as this ...

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionManual.htm#M47ShiftLinkageCausesHardShift

I'd check this out in the 700/900 FAQ.

At the very least get a second opinion.
$500 for a used tranny is pretty steep. Used AW71/or M46/47 transmissions at my local Pick and Pull go for about 90 bucks.
My brother in law in Phoenix was quoted $3500 for replacing his 760's AW71 w/a used box ... I located a shop in Tucson that charged him $875 and they towed it in for repairs. The tranny they installed has worked flawlessly for more than five years and 50 K miles. So if you can't do the work yourself, at least get a second opinion and another price quote.

Thanks. I'm definitely going to get a second opinion. A friend of mine has a neighbor who is a mechanic for Fed Ex and works at a Volvo/Mercedes shop on the weekends.

Chances are you will need to replace the unit. BTW I got one for my 87 745T transmission conversion for $250 off another Volvo owner. I ran your request through www.car-part.com and got prices from $200 to $850.
I cooked two transmissions while under warranty with the same symptoms as you are having. I learned under Volvo's Buck with my 86 740 not to put the clutch in and shift into a lower gear while coasting. It sounds like the syncros are shot in your first and second gears. In my case I also cooked the bearings.
Both times Volvo opened up the transmission, the gears were perfect there just was tiny pieces of brass everywhere inside the case. They never figured out what was happening but I did.

>>I learned under Volvo's Buck with my 86 740 not to put the clutch in and shift into a lower gear while coasting.

I'm having a hard time visualizing this. What is the proper procedure, to coast with the clutch in, but not shift? I'm trying to think about what to do when approaching a stoplight, for example.

Yrs ago the mindset was use the tranny to downshift and save the life of the brakes. Guess what, trannys are more expensive than brakes. Just drop it in neutral and let out the clutch, use the brakes.

I was kicking it out of OD or 4th gear and with the clutch disengaged putting it in 1st or 2nd gear coasting up to a light or stop sign. Even though the engine was idling the transmission gears were running at full speed. Remember the drive shaft is still spinning the transmission. It was like running the transmission at 40 to 60 mph in 1st gear. It built up a large amount of heat and friction.
I didn't suggest checking the Allen screw on the shifter because I figured your mechanic would check your linkage first to make sure it was adjusted properly. BTW you can access the set screw from underneath. It holds the shifter to the linkage. The reverse detent can be accessed from the top by removing the rubber shifter boot.