Thanks to all who have provided answers to my engine mount inquiries. I'm begining this new thread with a (hopefully) final question, as the other thread had become quite long.

A trip under the car today finds that I have about 1/4" - 5/16" gap between the oil pan and the steel crossmember below. I understand that 3/8" to 1/2" is desireable.

My question regards whether or not I am looking for the clearance at the right location. I'm looking toward the rear of the pan, where there is a large, curved, rubber pad that sits between the pan and the cross member.

The pad makes contact with both the cross member and the bottom of the pan. Just forward of the pad (and to either side) is where I'm seeing the gap. I can also see this gap at the front of the cross member, but given a bit of an oil leak (front seal, it appears) and a cold and windy day, it was hard to see very clearly under there.

I've discovered that the mounts are not the source of my front-end clunk, but if the mounts need to be replaced, I'll do it.

Thanks for your help in verifying that I'm looking for the gap in the right place, or correcting me if I'm wrong.

Thanks,
Mason

You should be looking at the area above that rubber pad and beneath the engine oil pan. Half an inch is optimistic but I have seen it before, 1/4-3/8 is more common. I always look right where the oil pan starts to curve down towards the sump, look in that area and see what you see. A clunk noise from the engine mounts would be rather unusual and while you may or may not still need the mounts you are correct in assuming that they will not fix your clunk issue. Bad mounts are usually more associated with piss poor idle quality among other things, especially the later model hydro mounts.


Mark

Can you explain how the mounts affect idle? I am not disputing you, just want to understand.

Makes your car shake, a lot. Things start to rattle in your car. Sounds like everything's made of cheap plastic. :)
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Ken
1990 Volvo 740 base sedan (B230F)
My Volvo 'Project'

Thanks Mark. From what you describe, my mounts are due for replacement. I have some strut work to do as well, so I see some busy weekends ahead.

Mason

I would think you'd look directly up, judging the distance from the flat part of the pan to the flat part of the rubber pad...it's less subjective and more accurate. But of course, any touching indicates that your engine mounts are shot. Also look at the trans mount while you're under there. It's located beneath where the driveshaft connects with the transmission output shaft. On the crossmember at that point there's a hole about an inch in diameter and ideally a stud and nut up inside. The stud and nut are part of the transmission, and between the trans and the crossmember is the mount. If the stud hangs down through the hole, suspect your trans mount is shot. It's fairly easy to hold the transmission up with a jack and remove the 17mm nut from the stud, then the four 14mm bolts that hold the crossmember to the body.

The mount is attached to the crossmember with a couple of 11mm bolts, and is frequently chewed up in obvious places. I find that the new Volvo trans mounts are made of a real hard rubber, and don't fail too easily, but don't provide as quiet a ride as some aftermarket ones I have used (and replaced a year later...)

Have fun.
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Steve--88 765T, 84 764T, 87 744 (RIP), 84 242 (RIP), 52 Volkswagen, 34 Plymouth

Steve,

I definitely have contact at the pad, so it seems that mount replacement is in order. And thanks for the info regarding the transmission mount as well. I've not looked at it, but at 182,000 city miles, I wouldn't be surprised to find that shot too.

Mason