Greetings:
This is slightly off topic, but I suggest to everyone that they spray lots of PB BLASTER or similar oil on all their bleed screws at several opportunities. Don't spray pads rotors or rubber parts. If a quicky mart changes your oil a few extra $$$ to the guy doing the work may encourage him yo spray the bleeder screws. BTW, ask him to spray silicon on the rubber parts as well. Anyway, the point is that repeated soakings will lead to loosening the bleeder screws without snapping them off. Don't wait until you need to loosen them before you spray penetrating oil.

bmwjohn in indy

Have you done any recent brake work that would cause the brakes to feel soft? If this happened without your doing I would be a little worried as it means that something may be wrong with your brake system. Unless you let the fluid level get low I am not sure how air would get into the brake system without something bad happening. I agree with Lucid in that you should get a book and perhaps do some diagnostic work before you move forward.

Also, I am not sure about the ABS cars, but on my 1986 non abs 240 bleeding the brakes was very hard. It took quarts of fluid to get the air out of the line that goes over the differential to the right rear wheel. It looked like fuid was coming out, but an air bubble was still in the line and the peddle felt spongey until we got rid of the bubble.

Best,

Mike

Please don't take this wrong, but I sincerely think you'd be better off to look at a manual* first, then come here with questions that are based on what you've read, and maybe ask for additional tips

Otherwise, you will have to sift thru whatever shows up here. Some advice will be good, some so-so, some conflicting, and some off the wall. And you won't have any basis for choosing.

One tip I'll offer right now is—
With car jacked up and wheels off, go around and make sure you can open each bleeder screw, and that some fluid dribbles out. Better to find a problem bleeder first (come here for help if needed), than in the middle of the bleed operation.

Use a box-end wrench (not open end), probably 5/16" but rebuilt calipers often have 1/4" hex bleeders. If it's stubborn, don't apply steadily increasing force. In my opinion, shock (like a mini impact tool) is more effective. With finger pressure on the wrench, tap the end with a small hammer. In both directions.

Also opinion here, but I have little regard for any of the snake oil penetrants, when it comes to breaking anything loose. Once you get some wiggle, it's a different story.

* Which Manual? The money you save by doing this one job yourself will more than pay for a copy of Bentley's "Volvo 240 Service Manual", new for about $30 online (do a Froogle search). Used copies are available for much less.
Do yourself a favor and skip the Haynes at the parts store.

--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

The 700/900 FAQ covers it pretty well. (Upper left corner drop down menu)

However, I too have just bled my brakes and still have 'spongy' or excessive brake pedal travel. I'm not sure if this means I didn't do a good job, possibly by not bleeding enough fluid, air in master cylinder, etc.

Here are some more useful links:

http://www.classicperform.com/TechBook/BrakeTroubleshoot.htm
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_howto_bleedbrakes.shtml
http://www.misterfixit.com/brakbld1.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/a/bl302a.htm

-Nathan

I can't remember. Does that year car have ABS?? It makes a difference in the bleeding sequence.
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Thanks for all the help. DougC. 1981 242 Brick Off Blocks, Turbo bars and wheels, M46. 1990 245, auto, 113k. 1993 245, M47, 154k.