I have a 1987 740 GL fuel injected non-turbo that shut off while driving and won't restart unless fuel is sprayed into the throttle body. I suspect the relay is bad but would like to check it first before replacing it. I tried to do the diagnostic as described in the FAQ's but my terminal numbers are different so couldn't test the second relay. I can feel the first relay clicking when the key is turned on. I would like to test the fuel pump by jumpering across the terminals but need to know whict to jump. Does anyone know which terminals to jumper?? I have 87 and 87a and 31 those are closest to the numbers in the FAQ. Thanks! TPW

Are you sure you looked at the fuel pump relay? The part number on the relay should be 898151, 3523608.(should be white in color) I have several fuel pump relays laying around, and all of them have what is covered in the FAQs.

I thimk it is the correct relay. I replaced it once before with a used one and it had specific marks on it. It is white. Location is second row from the front in the far right slot. By the way, do you want to sell one of the relay's you have? Thanks! TPW

Well, not sure what relay you looked at. It should be second row. Far left, drivers side.

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalCircuitsRelays.htm#RelayLocations

I was looking at the OD Relay! It was clicking just like the FAQ said it would. Anyhow, I'll do the diagnostics on the Fuel Pump relay. Thanks for the help!

Good deal. If you're handy with a soldering gun, look at the FAQs, tips on fixing, not replacing.

A quick look at my Haynes manual indicates that for early B230F systems (pre-1989 LH-Jet 2.2), the output to the fuel pumps (through fuse 11) is relay terminal 87. Terminal 87/2 mentioned in the FAQ applies to 1989- LH-Jet 2.2 and 2.4 systems. For all relays, terminal 30 is unswitched load power input from the battery (through fuse 1).

Jumpering terminal 30 (socket connector #6) with terminal 87 (socket connector #1) will act as a closed relay to drive the pumps (assuming the fuses aren't blown). Please verify the pin locations before testing. Wouldn't surpise me if they were the same as other white relays.

If the test indicates a bad relay then it's well worth trying to repair the relay by re-flowing the solder on the main relay contacts (see FAQ). Also check the condition of the relay socket -badly overheated relays have been known to melt the socket enough to distort it and allow the spade connectors to push out the back.
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Dave -own 940's, prev 740/240/140/120's & quasi-expert only on a good day