This is a repost that might help. It's mostly geared toward the cam rack that has the peened lock to the steering rack shaft. You might have that type. It sounds like you're not positive so I'm posting this just in case it helps.

To remove the inner tie rod, you disconnect it from the tie rod end by loosening the locknut on the threaded portion of the inner tie rod and unscrewing it from the outer tie rod end. Count the exposed threads before you start so you can get it reasonably aligned when you reassemble. You don't have to remove the tie rod end at the wheel where it connects to the steering arm, but you will if you're replacing the tie rod ends also. Once this is disconnected, you can pull the boot off if you haven't already cut it off. Then you disconnect the inner tie rod from the steering shaft. There might be an obvious lock washer affair which is great, or there might be a peen that holds the inner tie rod from working its way off the shaft which would cause a loss of steering on that side of the car. The peen dents into a recession in the shaft that you won't see really well until the inner tie rod is off. If yours is the peened style like mine is, you'll have to decide how to get the peen out so you can remove the inner tie rod. I carefully filed mine off because I didn't want to beat on the steering system too much. The Volvo manual shows a guy removing it with a small chisel. If you file it, go very carefully. Otherwise you'll file down into the shoulders of the recession in the shaft and the new peen on the new tie rod won't have as secure of a lock. Hopefully, you've got the easier style with the lock washer and bent tab. You should be able to bend the tab out of the way and unscrew the tie rod. I'd just order a new washer for each side if this is the style you have.

When you install the new one, you can use blue Loktite if you want. Some mechanics do this for extra safety. Be sure to support it from underneath before applying the new peen to avoid stressing the steering parts too much.

I bought a TRW/Moog/Federal Mogul tie rod from Swedish Engineering. It was nicely made with relatively polished steel in comparison with others I've seen, including a different TRW tie rod that was not nearly as well finished. When I first put it on by hand, it wouldn't screw on all the way. It went on, but stopped about two full rotations shy of where it should be. It turns out that when you apply just moderate pressure with a wrench the shaft cuts the last couple of threads into the female end of the connection. It provides an extra lock to add to the peen. Nice design.

You might want to get new boots while you're at it. Be careful, go slow, get it aligned when done.

Good luck.
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Thanks everyone for all the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, turbo bars and wheels, M46; 86 244, B230, 150k , auto; 81 242 Turbo, intercooled, M46, 122k.