Hi,

First of all I’m a 240 man but this looks like something the the 900s inherited.

The 240 brackets are casted as junk because the bores that support the bushings are not inline to each of their respective axis. I had to bore mine straight on one car and then made up solid PVC bushings from rod stock.
That eliminates all that wiggle that rubber gives to the whole affair.
To the life of me I do not understand the reasoning to rubber mount a rotary component. It emits no reciprocating sounds like older A/C compressors.

Apparently failure to change from what vendors sold and offer as a cheap bolt on package had influence upon the engineering and the bean counting departments.

One has to remember back to the late 140 and early 240 series that Sweden didn’t need to sell air conditioning for their snow and ice mountain populations around them.
Expansion into a more global foot print, i.e. the Americas thirst for more luxury cars Volvo had to play catch-up.

I will suggest that you might try turning the front rubber bushing around to remove the flange to allow the alternator to shift forward and then shim the play at the rear with washers in front of the rear bushings inner flange.
Otherwise you will have to look at slotting the bolt pattern rearward that is holding bracket itself moves to keep it looking more factory correct.
Again I’m a 240 guy and I have never studied how that whole affair was devised to fit on the opposite side of the same red block engine. Up, high Makes for easy pickings in a PNP yard.

I guess since I have seen that the distributor was move to the back of the cylinder head putting the alternator in that space moved it away from exhaust heat.
So why did it move? Well, you cannot say that the rubber failed due to heat?
It might be that the alternator housing was swapped during a repair or by a rebuilder.
It’s not uncommon for a casting boss to change on either side, in so being, an overlooked detail.

I would recommend using a straight edge across the faces of at least one pulley to measure from.
You really need two contact points to project a straight line “outward” for a true alignment in the direction you are looking.
Checking for a parallel axis’s in relationship to the crankshaft’s length front to rear is important too but should be taken care of, up to a point, by the bracket.
The straight edge should strike across four points for flatness top and bottom.
Two spots on each pulley face adjusting allowing for manufacturing variations. Thick or thinnesses of the sides can vary as you will inevitably find.


You’re lucky that this alternator is driven by a belt.
Straightness is still required for proper belt seating of the cords.
A belt Climbing on one side will cause twisting within pulley diameters.
This happens upon entry and exiting creating Stress fatigue.

An angled tooth notch, invented by Goodyear and removed from our market by Continental with a buyout negated many things, of which, one was the noise of that action.
The belt is allowed to squirm or slide between the V and not get pinched, per se?
The extra length, diagonally of the tangents, increased heat dissipation.
Rubber contracts when warmed.
The opposite of a normal material. Like brass is to steel or water’s properties.
Serpentine multi grooves belts stop squealing after a few warm up rounds.
It’s yelling fatigue but does eventually gets worse when ignored.
Just ignore yourself in brushing teeth and they will go away!
Belt in the belly pan, seems correct. 😬

SO, you are on top of it! 👀

Phil