Hi,

Have you tried starting fluid applied through the vacuum port of the fuel pressure regulator?

If you put in a good decent dose of it into the engine and it will burst to life for a few seconds to prove that you have spark with a working CPS!
It also proves that the relay behind the battery, mentioned by Dave is firing the spark coil per ICU signals.
It also proves a correct valve timing sequence, with compressions, so the timing belt is good.

You have not mentioned any smell of the engine flooding or by checking plugs to see if they are wet by getting fuel and no spark!

So yes, it might mean that the injectors are still not getting power from the system relay.
The relay has two sides. One for the pumps and one for the injectors. One side can fail or the whole thing.
From here, You need to go to Art Benstein’s site for pictures on how to troubleshoot the following things.
It’s Cleanflametrap.com and is full of helpful things to fix the 240s!

To check for power for the injectors.
You can access a orange wire from the AMM connector. It is controlled by the relay.
PULL back the boot and attach a tiny light bulb setup that he shows with pictures.
This orange wire loops the AMM and the injectors with 12v power to operate them. They get opened by being grounded by the ECU program pluses.
ECU’s are seldom a problem, it’s the peripheral stuff that screws with its world with inappropriate information being supplied! The AMM and the oxygen sensor, is on both sides of the engine. The in & out mixture and then it’s the coolant sensor with the TPS that cues up what the engine is going to do next.

So with this information you should be able to picture what not happening fairly quickly.

As far as the noisy main pump be suspicious that the in-tank pump might not be working or the rubber connecting hose on the sender itself is bad?
Otherwise you shouldn’t hear it run unless you lay down beside the cars pump or in my case, turn up my hearing aids and listen very carefully inside the car! (:-)

Phil