I just changed it and here is what I can tell you. Overall it's very straight forward. Read the instructions at volvospeed/bay13 to get started.

When you take out the battery tray there are 4 screws but only three of them hold the tray in. The one on the front left holds the (cruise control???) pump and wiring block to the bottom of the battery tray. It's okay if you take that one off but it's a little tricky trying to figure out how the piece attaches back to the tray.

Rich at bay13 warns about the two bolts that hold the SAS valve in place. He mentions that if you have a turbo it is significantly more difficult to get these removed. I have a "light" turbo (which is considered "no turbo") and it was quite difficult. You need to get the smallest 10mm wrench you can find. Maybe one of those curved ones might work well. The standard Craftsman is too big. The bolt facing the back can be removed without too much difficulty. I had a stubby socket wrench which worked well from the drivers side going under all of the other stuff that it's in the way. For the other bolt I thought that I was screwed but here's what I did that worked. Remove the 6" metal stablizer piece that bolts into the engine and goes over this other piece of what I think is aluminum. With that out of the way grab the SAS valve and push it towards the firewall. Yes it is rigid piping under and around it but all you need is to move it just ever so slightly to get a seat on it with the wrench. You have to work the wrench a little at a time (because the wrench will hit the firewall) but eventually it be loose enough to work loose with your hands. Putting it back is the same thing - grab and push the unit to move it ever so slightly. I was very careful not to overtighten.

(The above was on a 98 V70, the picture at bay13 looks different. The SAS valve appears to have more room around it. I'm guessing that was an 850 maybe.)

I replaced all of the hose clamps with the screw type ones. This way it will be easier when it breaks again. I did not replace the 1/4" hose clamp because I could not find any at the store. I might use a wire tie or just leave it, at least for now.

I spoke with a few people here and at volvospeed about drilling holes in the pump. I agree that it is a good idea although I would not bet the farm that it will prevent 100% from moisture ruining the pump. I drilled two 1/8" holes at the bottom of the pump. Follow the nipple for the hose (small hose) that goes to the SAS valve. This piece wraps around the pump. At the bottom of the pump drill the hole. Then on the other side of the snap brackets drill another one. I should note that my broken unit (yes it was broken I tested it and it is dead) did not have that much water in it. I read about people finding the pump completely full, mine had 1 ounce at most. I took off the back piece that exposes the power wires. In there was some white crystals from the water.

I read that there was some concern about damaging the unit by drilling. I mounted it in a vice and put the drill on very slow. The bit will pull the plastic out. Keep going slow and eventually you will break through. I tested the pump with a 12VDC supply and it worked fine after drilling. I would think that any small particle would just be blown out (if it can fit through the SAS valve opening.) BTW: I practiced drilling on my dead unit first.

That's all. Thanks to everyone who offered some help in the past few weeks. Hopefully this can help you. At least I know I am ready to do the next one when this pump breaks. :')