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Notes on removing the ball joint

I was stuck this winter with trying to remove the passenger side drive axle
it wouldn't pop out of the transmission for me. So I took it to a garage where their new mechanic used a 4' prybar to pry the control arm ball joint free from
the steering knuckle forging. A few weeks later I had a pothole break the steering knuckle where the ball joint is secured. I could see one half of the clamp was getting rusty where the mechanic split the forging, the other side had no rust. The car was going forward and the Drivers wheel was busy
tearing up the boot on the new drive axle and some of the fender trim. I had
a ride home by a flatbed tow truck.

I just finished changing out the passenger side drive axle that had a torn boot,
and swapped out the hub while I was at it, so the the tie rod end popped out easily with the little Autozone tool and now I was looking down at the steering knuckle split clamp with the bolt out, and took a medium prybar and drove it in
a bit to spring open the clamp, and voila' out the ball joint fell.

I confirmed this with another mechanic friend today who releases the ball joint clamps with an air chisel, the same idea to use a wedge to free the clamp.

Some methods work, some, not so much. Maybe this will help someone, Bill







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