I just finished doing my timing belt change, and while disconnecting the strut brace noted that the upper motor mount was broken. While at the local dealer getting a new one, the mechanic stopped by the parts window and I was discussing the procedure. I had mentioned that it was pretty simple except for the removal of the inner fender. As I tried to drill out the rivets, they spun making it difficult. I did finally get by with the help of my wife, but I now have several questions.

Should I have just left the inner fender in, and do everything from the top (as the mechanic said they do).
A) How do you pull the damper and pulley? (I used a steering wheel puller) which was easy with the inner liner out, but I'd think would be tough to do from the top.
B) How difficult is turning the engine from the top using the nut on the pulley (to check for mistakes after the installation) before firing it up and to get the initial alignments.
C) If removing the inner liner is the recommended way, how do you easily get the rivets out?
D) What’s the trick to easily get the belt back on? I found this pretty difficult, until I left off the tensioner, and then routing the belt over the tensioner and with it very out of position, I could get the mounting screw to start (I was really concerned about cross threading), but got lucky. After getting several threads engaged, I then positioned the tensioner correctly, and then snugged it up to do the final adjustment.
E) Also while I was talking to the Volvo mechanic at the dealer, he mentioned you should only ever rotate the tensioner clockwise, and that if you go too far, keep going all the way around! He stated the tensioner was like a clock escape mechanism, and I’d damage it if I rotated it counter-clock wise. I did over shoot very slightly, and just went backwards against his advice (I had already done this). So far no issues, but have less than 100 miles since doing the job. Any comments from members about what he had said? I’ve never seen this on any forum I visited.

When doing this process, I noted that the plastic guard going over the CVJ, was broken. My guess I did this somehow when placing the front plastic engine cover back on. I cleaned it very well using lacquer thinner, and then using ABS pipe cement glued the locking tab back on. With such a small surface area, I didn’t expect this to work, but it did, although it took several hours to fully cure. I figured I’d pass this along to other members who might find this useful, and to ask what other have used and found successful?

Jerry
01 V70 T5