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I have had three Volvos and never had a transmission problem. I'm looking now to buy a 95 850 turbo wagon, with 125k miles, and it has had the transmission replaced. Seems like all other maintenance has been carried out (timing belts, etc.) but should I be wary of this?
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As long as the transmission has been replaced, you should have no problem.
Flush the transmission fluid every 15,000 miles with non-synthetic, every 25,000 with Mobil 1, or every 45-50,000 with AMSOIL synthetic and you should be fine.
Obviously, this is no guarantee--tranny is made up of many hundreds of mechanical parts, all provided by the lowest bidder, so strange things can happen that have nothing to do with lubrication.
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Find out if the "new" tranny is a 1995 or 1997, and how many miles on it. The 1994 and 95 needed to have the tranny fluid flushed every 25-30K miles.
The 1997 is updated and is a better tranny.
You can try and ding the current owner for a few bucks, but check the paper work and look for a guarentee.
Klaus
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98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)
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Hi Klaus, do you do your own or have it done? My indie mechanic quoted me $100 to flush and put in new fluid. I haven't seen a post here in a while regarding flushing, and you know your transmissions... Thanks, Don '95 854T (needing its 30K flush)
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Don,
I do my own. It only take 30 minutes or so and 12 quarts of new fluid. I am too cheap to use Mobile1. The only hard part is to get the dumb clamp off. Be careful of the O ring, you may want to have a spare clamp and O ring on hand, just in case.
Klaus
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98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)
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Klaus, one more question... do you use the method of removing the top hose where it goes into the radiator? I looked at bay13: http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/Transflush.php
and he seems to describe a total of three procedures. The first is what my indie does for $100 (a machine is attached), the second is what he says is the Volvo procedure, which involves removing battery and tray, disconnecting a hose and plugging the hole (I don't see pictures of the "valve body" he refers to and can't make out the hardware over on the PNP switch page - a lot of stuff down in there), and then at the bottom of the page he mentions just removing the top hose (and points out that the cooler fluid is not flushed). This last procedure I would be happy with, though the "Volvo procedure" seems doable if I knew what was what. Thanks again, Don ps: The O-ring you mention, is that in the top connection at the radiator?
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Don,
If you haven't been to OZbrick:
http://au.geocities.com/ozbrick850/atfflushindex.html
Now is the time to read great write ups. And, yes, the O ring is at the radiator fitting. Use the top hose, it is much easier that way.
I have a filter sitting on a case of ATF waiting for the courage to build up so that I can just cut the hose, flush the V70R, and put on a filter. Then I will never have to bother with that silly clamp again. But if I screw up the hose cutting procedure, that's $130 mistake. Definately not in my budget!
When you are done flushing the tranny, let us all know how easy it really is.
Klaus
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98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)
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Klaus - done. It was pretty easy, the worst part was the funky clamp and removing the connector. Regardless of fairly careful treatment, the connector is little loose now but tight enough to do the job. Spent 15 min at the store deciding the fluid (Dex III/Mercon Type H vs older IIE and IIIG recommendations) would work. I used a piece of old garden hose, and simply did 2 quarts at a time, 12 quarts total. I didn't look for bubbles or the color - getting to old to be this analytical. Two quarts out, engine off, two quarts in. I bought a funnel at kmart that seems made for transmission fills. About 12" long with a small funnel at the top - just have to be careful to pour slowly. Hard to get in on the turbo model (dip stick directly below hose going into throttle body. Used to this type of situation working on the Volvo by now... The connector required a bit of finesse to remove. It loosened slowly, with back and forth rotational and longitudinal force slowly causing it to give way. I resisted the temptation to pry, as the fitting attached to the radiator has a thin wall - easily buggered is my guess. There was some corrosion at the bottom of the barrel which probably was causing tightness. Anyway, I'll have to take it for a drive and check the level. Thanks again for the super web site and suggestion to DIY. Don '95 854T
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