A quart a day is a very lot and suggests a badly leaking seal. I had a clogged flame trap which pushed oil mainly out the rear exhaust seal. The leak all but stopped after cleaning the flame trap but the seal was bad and after 6 months or so it became too much to deal with. On replacing this seal (easiest of all) the engine is so far dry everywhere (a few months) and not using too much oil. The seal was evidently original and was very stiff.

If your situation with your car permits, you could replace the belt and watch for a few months, after cleaning everything very well. Should the seals leak sooner or later, you will be able to see this by removing the upper timing cover. At that time you would need to remove the belt but you would not need to remove it from the crankshaft pulley unless that turns out to be the source of the leak.

It's hard to see how the belt would be dry and the outside of the timing cover oily if it is a seal leak, especially at a quart per day. Could the oil have come from somewhere else, like the oil separator or dipstick tube, and then splashed to the timing cover?

Also do you mean your water pump pulley was actually missing a few teeth? Do you know if it was the original pump or at least an OEM part? If aftermarket that would certainly be a brand not to buy.

For me the Bay13 instructions worked well. The only issue I had was keeping the belt tight enough to stay on the proper tooth of the crankshaft pulley while installing the tensioner. A strong bungee cord was needed. Also I could not get the water pump out or the new one in without removing the tensioner idler pulley from the block. Take off the entire pulley, not just the roller, because the bolt that holds the roller onto the arm is not captive.