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Hi all, stepping upwards from the 740 series, i have a friend interested in selling me a 94 850 sedan.
The car runs and drives, but overheats. I see no coolant in the oil, everything works, and it seems that he claimed the heater core leaked out. there are no unusual noises,nor is there any smoke etc when running.
I think the heater core blew out, and for the price and low mileage (103k) im pretty sure im gonna jump on it for the price (450)-he owns a shop which does not specialize in volvos, and the owner basically left it for him to get rid of since he bought a brand new v series.
Any thoughts on the overheating issue? headgasket? or worse? i would think headgasket immediately, but there is no oil/water mix, and all cylinders are firing correctly. but for the price it may be a gamble worth taking, the car is loaded, ac works etc.
Any thoughts?> i'm so used to the 740 series i dont know where to start.
Huey.
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Hey...I found my original post in 12/2004...here it is w/ a response
should I buy a 850(1994) with 169k for a winter car. 850
posted by bluemonster on Fri Dec 31 04:01 UTC 2004
Author Info: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS]
I have a 940(1993)sedan that has 210k that I love. I have a chance to buy a 850(1994)sedan with 169k. No service records but I am buying it from my go to mechanic for the 940 repairs that I can't do. He says that the guy that used to own it did a lot of the expensive stuff already. The AC, radiator, ABS control module, timing belt, water pump and all the other belts have been replaced. It is a 5 speed so no problems with the auto trans. What else should I know about this Silver Streak before I make a long term commitment?
How's the Volvo manual trans?
Should I use synthetic oil?
Is there anything else that has regular problems?
Thanks for any advice that you have.
posted by bill d cat on Fri Dec 31 12:45 UTC 2004
Author Info: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS]
Sounds like most of the stuff I've replaced, except it's a GT and so doesn't have some of the stuff to break. I've not replaced my water pump. I still have my original manual transmission. (I still have my original clutch!) No, I wouldn't first switch to synthetic oil at 169,000 miles. I've heard the usual stories about engines starting to leak oil like a colander, so I'm not nearly that brave! The main seal can start to leak with high miles, if so it's also a good time to replace the clutch. For an inclusive list of things that go wrong, check the owner's surveys at Kino's Volvo site: http://kinovolvo.velez.ws/ Don't blame me if it blows up, but that's just the kind of Volvo 850 I'm looking for for my baby daughter (cheap).
-BTC
'98 V70 T5M, 153k mi, front IPD stabilizer bar, rear factory HD bar, Bilstein HD, Volvo strut tower brace and skidplate, e-codes, V-1, Mobil-1 since new
Hope this helps
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Bluemonster 944(1993)210K 854(1994)169K
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Sounds like a good deal...but remember the old saying of if it sounds too good to be true. I have a 1994 850. Mine had about 70k more mils on it when I got it. A number of things go wrong right around 100k including the air conditioning, the tranny, the radiator and a variety of other expensive items. Look back in late January and early February to find more details. Good luck.
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Bluemonster 944(1993)210K 854(1994)169K
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Have you ruled out the thermostat in the radiator?
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'95 854T 125,000
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posted by
someone claiming to be ksg
on
Mon Jul 25 16:22 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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If at any location the cooling system is not holding pressure the engine will overheat, maybe severely, even if nothing is wrong internally.
Why not get a pressure tester and find out if coolant is leaking out the heater or elsewhere? You would probably smell coolant inside the car also, if there is a significant leak, especially in the heater core. It is not especially hard to replace the heater core but you could bridge the 2 heater hoses and bypass the core to see if there is an additional problem with the cooling system.
If you are not losing coolant then maybe the radiator is partly obstructed. This might show up as overheating which is much worse under load (hill climb). What about a stuck thermostat? Some of the pressure caps, especially earlier ones, failed to hold, and some of the overflow tanks have had cracks.
I have seen used cars with very filthy sludgy coolant where the owner did not bother or was not aware to change it. This leads to very hot running.
I'm suggesting the simpler things because I've seen very few reports on the various Volvo sites of blown head gaskets.
Are there any big oil leaks and does the air conditioner work?
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I saw NO oil under the car (it has sat in the same spot for 2 months) the car fired right up, no smoke, noise etc. i let it run for 5-10 minutes and all seemed well, could use an oil change badly, but beyond that, yes the AC is ice cold and it seems every idiot light on the dash is on.
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i brought it home, besides the antifreeze all over the floors, it runs great.
Heres my observations.
After about 4-5 minutes, the anti freeze reservoir blows antifreeze allover/
the front hose (rad) is cold at this point.
Any one thinkin what i am, that its just the thermostat stuck>?
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Real Huey--sounds like your thermostat is stuck, as someone earlier noted. The stuc k thermostat though may be the least of your problems. Getting it out is the major one. There are two torx bolts that hold the housing on, and it takes a quarter inch drive and torx socket to loosen them. A 3/8th drive socket won't work because of the shoulder on the block that won't let you get a straight shot at the bolt heads. The problem is that the thermostat sensor sits right under the housing, and the bolts tend to weld themselves to the block because of the current running through them. You have to take a torx socket, extension, and hammer, and tap them, but not to hard because the thermostat base is cast to the block and hangs out there in unsupported space. What a bummer that Volvo decided to use torx bolts and not a hardened hex head. There have been some real horror stories on the BB about getting those torx bolts loose. Dick
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