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E-brake drag – trouble with adjustment 850

Hello,

Please bear with me - I am just beginning to dabble into brake work. Three questions below.

For a long time now, I’ve had a scrape-scrape noise coming from the rear wheels (especially driver’s side), the cause having been narrowed down to the E-brakes with the help of this board. When I turn the wheels by hand, there is a scraping sound at one point during each turn.

I am adjusting the brakes by turning the star wheel on the adjuster through the opening in the brake rotor. On the passenger side, this was successful. On the driver’s side, I have turned the star wheel as far as it will go, but there is still residual drag. Question 1: What to do?

There is one thing I noticed, but am not sure if it is of importance here. On both sides, the rotors aren’t “true” - what I mean by that is, when I spin them, they get closer and farther from the inside edges of the brake calipers (I have the pads out to deal with a sqeal issue). We are talking very noticable wobble, perhaps 1/4 inch. This makes me wonder if the hubs and/or rotors are mounted properly. I feel stronly that this is related to the E-brake dragging. Question 2: I wonder if this is normal?

I want to take the caliper and rotor off to inspect the E-brake. Haynes says new caliper mounting bolts are required every time the calipers are removed. Question 3: Are new bolts absolutely necessary? Are they standard ones or specialty (i.e. need to get from dealer)?

Any hints will be appreciated.
--
'97 850 n/a Wagon, 120K mi








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    E-brake drag – trouble with adjustment 850

    The drum brake shoes probably have fallen off on the driver's side, you will have to remove the rotor to fix/replace them.
    Rear rotors do warp easily and there should not be ANY wobble.

    Klaus
    --
    98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)








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      E-brake drag – trouble with adjustment 850

      Klaus,

      You were right. The pad is delaminated over a 2 inch stretch on one of the shoes. So, new new E-brake shoes it is.

      Thanks to everyone for their help. Once again, this board rocks!


      .
      --
      '97 850 n/a Wagon, 120K mi








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      E-brake drag – trouble with adjustment 850

      Thanks, Klaus.
      One question remains, do I have to use new mounting bolts for the calipers, as Haynes says?
      --
      '97 850 n/a Wagon, 125K mi








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        E-brake drag – trouble with adjustment 850

        Sorry, I forgot. Yes, you can reuse the bolts. Just check them for scoring and wear. Some of us Brickers have never bought new bolts.

        Klaus
        --
        98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)








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    E-brake drag – trouble with adjustment 850

    Yes, with the rear rotor off you can see what is going on with the star screw assembly. I didn't use new bolts when I removed my calipers - maybe I did a bad thing, but it has worked alright for 5k mi. No, 1/4" out of true isn't normal, and would cause some major problems when braking AND driving. Is the small retaining screw screwed into each rotor? On my car, the rotor stayed mostly true until I disturbed it by removing the retaining screw to put on a new rotor - the new one wasn't true until I tightened the lug nuts (just putting in the single retaining screw won't attach the rotor to the hub in a true manner).








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      E-brake drag – trouble with adjustment 850

      Yes, the retaining screws (pins) are still in place. As you said, 1/4" lateral movement should cause noticable problems driving and braking, but everything has worked normally, no vibrations or brake shudder, except for that high-pitch brake squeal just before I come to a stop (I am trying to fix that with Volvo pads and shims).
      I wonder if the rotor shifted out of true AFTER I took the lug nuts off. Tonight, I will put on the lug nuts (without the wheels) to see if that makes a difference. Thanks for your help.
      --
      '97 850 n/a Wagon, 120K mi







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