Volvo AWD 850 Forum

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Temp gauge needle pinned on cold 850 1995

Just wondering if anyone had an opinion why my temperature gauge this morning
decided to stay pegged at the bottom (cold position) even after I had been running the car on the turnpike at high speeds for over a half hour?
I changed the thermostat about a year and a half ago and the heat seems to be working fine.








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Temp gauge needle pinned on cold 850 1995

Flick the plastic lens covering the instruments fairly hard with your finger. Does that make the guage work again? I have this problem with the temp display sagging while warm or not coming up when starting the car. I am sure it is a problem at the receiving/display end because the display responds to vibration when I flick it. If yours is like mine, changing the sensor won't do a thing.








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Temp gauge needle pinned on cold 850 1995

Mr. Detail--AJU could be right after my lengthy post on being careful removing the thermostat housing to get to the temp sensor. Most temp sensors do not bottom out suddenly, but become erratic. It never hurts to take the thermostat housing loose to keep the two torx bolts from seizing. Reinstall with anti-lock. You will see though white corrosion around the leads of the temp sensor, but they go inside a housing that is sealed and you can't tell if the corrosion has followed the leads inside or not. Dick








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Temp gauge needle pinned on cold 850 1995

Do the sensor thing. Then report back. Cheap fix.








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Temp gauge needle pinned on cold 850 1995

Have the same problem and think it may be the ECT or temp sensor, just under the thermostat. Anyway, I am ordering a new one soon.

dick








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Temp gauge needle pinned on cold 850 1995

Dick:
Can I replace the temp sensor wihtout removing the thermostat?








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Temp gauge needle pinned on cold 850 1995

No, you can't get at it without removing the thermostat. Changing out the sensor isn't the difficulty, it's loosening the two torx bolts that hold the thermostat housing. Because of the nearness of the temp sensor and the electricity flowing around it, the two bolts sometimes galvanize to the block. Use a quarter-inch ratchet with the proper size torx to loosen them. A 3/8ths drive with the torx on the end is too big to loosen the rear one because of the angle and the thermostat housing. If the torx bolts don't come out with a quick jerk on the drive handle, take a hammer and beat the top of the torx bolt viat the drive to knock the galvanizing loose. Don't get too heavy handed, because the cast aluminum thermostat housing hasn't got a lot of support under it and you can break it if you lay into the bolts with too much force. A real horror story is twisting off one or both of these bolts. Has happened. A word of caution: When taking out the bolts be very careful that they don't fall off the end of the torx drive and drop down inside the guts of the engine compartment. One of mine did and it took two hours with a light to find it. I was afraid to start the engine because the serpentine belt is close by, and you will easily become paranoid thinking that the bolt has wedged into the belt and a gear. To get the thermostat housing removed you have to carefully turn and twist it to get it by the two metal fuel lines that are conveniently in the way. Once removed the thermostat temp gauge can be taken out with an open end wrench. Note the white oxide around it and on the wires from electrical corrosion. Dick







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