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Engine cuts out under hard acceleration S70 1998

I own a 98 S70 T5 Automatic and have had this problem for a while. Now that the warm weather is finally here, I want run the car a little harder.

Problem: Under hard acceleration, from a standing start or when trying to merge or pass on the highway, when I reach about 4500+ RPM the engine either struggles to accelerate faster or cuts out.

When it cuts out, it is quite a shock because with the sudden loss of power, it feels like I have run into a curb. The engine does not shut off when this happens. Once it cuts out, I have to let off the gas and once I step on the gas again the power comes back.

This doesn't happen every time but it seems to happen when I need the power the most such as merging onto highways or trying to pass other cars at highway speed.

Service Info:
Regular air filter changes(I use Paper Filters - Have tried K&N with same problem)
August 2004 - New Plugs, Wires, Rotor
September 2004 - Throttle Body cleaning and new gasket
October 2004 - Vehicle in to Volvo for service. They found a twisted vacuum hose and untwisted it. The problem was resolved for 3 days and then returned.
November 2004 - Fuel filter replaced

The air pump is faulty (Buzzes every once in a while and throws a code).
I'm not sure if the air pump could cause this problem but I could be wrong.

Could it be MAF related or Transmission related? HELP!
I am looking for any suggestions. Any info is appreciated. Sorry for the long post.








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    When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter? If it has been a while and the filter is partially clogged, it will not be able to supply the fuel demand at higher rpms for any sustained period.



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    My '91 940 Tubro used to do the same thing. The waste gate on the Tubro had melted when my brother overheated it (no oil). The turbo would built compression, generally to 4500 RPM and then suddenly blow it's compression through the defective waste gate. Compression would build again when I dropped the RPM. It was an old car so I didn't fix the turbo, it was an easy problem to avoid once I was familar with it.
    Have you looked at the turbo?
    Good Luck



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    I have the same exact problem with my 98 V70 GLT. The engine will cut out at 4500rpm+.Especially between 1st and 2nd. I own thought is the engine is over-reving and the rev limiter is cutting off the spark.
    Is there a electronic shift timimng module on this car?
    I also have a problem with it not kicking down to 2nd at about 55mph it will only kick down to 3rd.
    I have 84k on the car and have had a major service at 60k fron the dealer. problem started at about 75k. I change my own oil in between(every 5k).
    When should I replace the brake rotors? Or should I just keep making sure the pads never get low enough to do damage? None of the rotors are warped or squeling.

    I need all the help I can get on this shft thing. It really questions the reliabilty of the car(not to mention that it is my wifes car). I am not a rookie to car repair but this one has me baffled. I do not think it could be a mechanical problem. I am guessing electrical.

    Love the wagon Black on Black-rare combo.

    Mark



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    Your problem seems similar to mine, which I had felt occurred while letting up on the gas. Same symptoms.

    My problem began with slight hesitations and has now gotten worse wherein the engine seems to die for a microsecond this causes the transmission to downshift. The engine restarts and in the lower gear races.

    Do you see the simlarity here. Just replaced the rotor, dist cap and ingnition wires, checked for vacuum leaks and checked engine and transmission codes. None. Earlier during one of the severe hesitations the "Check Engine" light came on. The codes indicated misfiring in all cylinders, indicating the engine really had stopped for that microsecond.

    Volvo had replaced the headlight switch on a recall and I had to replace the original equipment (7 years old) battery the day before the problem began.

    Let me know if you find out what is causing your problem.



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      I too have had codes that read all cylinders have misfired. The strange coincidence is that the battery was replaced a few days before I started having this problem. I don't know how replacing the battery could cause this type of problem. It could just be a coincidence but maybe we're onto something here. Anyone else have any ideas about this?



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        Hey there...

        I just bought a 98 Volvo S70...and within 2 weeks the battery had to be replaced. Now...the check engine light is on and I was told that the code that displayed indicated that there is a "Cylinder 4 Misfire."

        Does anyone know what the deal is with getting the "misfire" code after replacing the battery?

        I'd appreciate any information that anyone has related to this issue as my funds are very limited, and I can't afford to pay a mechanic to do a major tuneup if it isn't necessary.

        Thank you!



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        Check your plug gap. If you're running coppers at .28 you are prone to mis-firing. Lower the gap to .26.

        BB
        --
        1998 V 70 BASE



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          I am running Volvo plugs that were purchased from the dealer. I did not check the gap as I assumed they would be to spec. I will have to check just in case they were knocked around in the package. Thanks for the suggestion.



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            The three prongers I'm assuming you are referring to are not really gapable like a single is. I would highly suggest you swap out for some copper core plugs and try gapping to .26.
            --
            1998 V 70 BASE



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    Is your ignition broken and after you start your car, the key doesn't spring back? If so, turn it back some manually and see if this helps...read this on another forum...seems to happen a lot if keys are on a ring with many other keys or heavy items weighing down the ignition.

    Good luck
    --
    1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon



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